Mash tun type
Had trouble with SParging.......
tried a shower head first, followed by a small watering can rose...neither gave me a spraying action........
plargh
so resorted to slowing the flow so it was a steady dribble, and moving it around the surface, being careful not to disturb the grain bed......seemed to work, but not how I had hoped.
what do you guys use?
maybe i had the flow too slow...just not sure
but pics here
http://www.winesathome.co.uk/forum/show ... php?t=2313
I have three batches on the go now 3 gal lager, 3 gal bitter, and 3 gal Barley wine.............. I'm a tired, but happy puppy
(oh and burnt a little ...this hot water mallarkey is new to me)
tried a shower head first, followed by a small watering can rose...neither gave me a spraying action........
plargh
so resorted to slowing the flow so it was a steady dribble, and moving it around the surface, being careful not to disturb the grain bed......seemed to work, but not how I had hoped.
what do you guys use?
maybe i had the flow too slow...just not sure
but pics here
http://www.winesathome.co.uk/forum/show ... php?t=2313
I have three batches on the go now 3 gal lager, 3 gal bitter, and 3 gal Barley wine.............. I'm a tired, but happy puppy

So am I right in thinking I just add the water in and mix it all up, allow it to settle and just run off from there?
is it really that simple ()compensating of course for the amount I will lose during the boil.
Its the sparging device bit I am having the trouble with, the flow from the tun is fine, I can go quite quick....
regards
Bob
is it really that simple ()compensating of course for the amount I will lose during the boil.
Its the sparging device bit I am having the trouble with, the flow from the tun is fine, I can go quite quick....
regards
Bob
Fantastic stuff.......
many many thanks for that, I think I may switch to batch sparging
So I'm adding 13.5 litres of water to the grains for the mash, what percentage of that needs to be taken account of in the final reckoning, I appreciate that some of that water is soaked up by the grains, but is there a guide as to how much?
or is it simply a case of needing (say) 27 litrers wort, i just add 27 litres of water, in two batches of 13.5 litres, ignoring the first water added to the mash?
regards and thanks again in advance
Bob
many many thanks for that, I think I may switch to batch sparging

So I'm adding 13.5 litres of water to the grains for the mash, what percentage of that needs to be taken account of in the final reckoning, I appreciate that some of that water is soaked up by the grains, but is there a guide as to how much?
or is it simply a case of needing (say) 27 litrers wort, i just add 27 litres of water, in two batches of 13.5 litres, ignoring the first water added to the mash?
regards and thanks again in advance
Bob
Sorry....
I read the link you gave, and it answers my question (DOH!)
so I just run the first 1/2 through....then run the second through till i reach the desired amount....taking into account the water used in the tun to begin with (got it!....I think)
Fab
cheers dude
regards
Bob
I read the link you gave, and it answers my question (DOH!)
so I just run the first 1/2 through....then run the second through till i reach the desired amount....taking into account the water used in the tun to begin with (got it!....I think)
Fab
cheers dude
regards
Bob
Last edited by lockwood1956 on Sun Jun 08, 2008 5:09 pm, edited 1 time in total.
If you change your mind... this is my homemade sparger made out of 22mm copper pipe, 3/4" BSP hose and John Guest fittings:

The plastic lid is there to both position it and keep the heat in:

The holes need to be kept small (<2mm diameter) in order to get a good spray action with a slow flow rate:

I used it for the first time on my last brew and found I could easily match the flow rates - sparge vs. run off.
Feel free to use as inspiration!
The plastic lid is there to both position it and keep the heat in:
The holes need to be kept small (<2mm diameter) in order to get a good spray action with a slow flow rate:
I used it for the first time on my last brew and found I could easily match the flow rates - sparge vs. run off.

Feel free to use as inspiration!

Hi Bob here is the way I calculate my runnings I do it this way to get consistancey from brew to brew and each grain bed is slightly different.I allow for a 5 liter loss on a 60 min boil and 8 liter loss to a 90 min boil off. This has remained constant as I brew lid off out side on a high out put propane burner. Each system will vary as to the type of boil how hard you boil and the indoor verses out door senario. You loose more out side than inside. For strike water I caculate 1 liter to 1 Kg of grain for an ale vs. 1.5 liter strike water to 1 kg grain for a lager this is to give the bed the right sacrification qualities for each brew. Also most ales have added gypsum to the mix to harden the water a bit.I will allow the proper time for the conversion mash to take place and check for conversion using an iodine test. Then take off the first runnings when it is ready. This volume will vary a wee bit on different sparges due to different grain beds weather etc. There are many reasons for the differences crush additions of wheat etc.From there I can calculate the loss to the bed and calculate how much additional water to use on second sparge to come up with a final number. So the math goes like this in my world if you are using 12 kg of grain I srike 12 liters water for an ale 18 for a lager. Then being I am out side my total collection of wert for a 23 liter bach of ale would be 28 liters for a lager it would be 31 liters as I use 60 min. for an ale 90 min. for a lager. So after first runnings I collect around 9.5 - 10 liters wert on the first running of a ale so I to do the second sparge I would mash out with 20 liters of liquor. The lager usually would run at about 15 liters collected and I would add an addtional 17 liters for my mash out. This is using a batch sparging system. It has been a long time since trying a fly sparge and I am not sure of the math there.I usually run 70% - 75% efficancey depending on the beer gods mood. 

Hello Daab. Made one of your false bottoms today from a plastic plate and just road tested it. With water only in it, it will only drain down to 2litres - not the half pint which you achieve. It's a very shallow plate and the horizontal pipe to the outlet tap is horizontal (not above the bottom of the outlet tap at any point). Iam wondering if the weight of the grain will make any difference to the residual liquid.
At the present time I use a 2mil stainless steel manifold on legs and also stuff a circular piece of stainless 2mil mesh up the outlet tap with muslin wrapped round it. This normally works fine because I can tip it (returning any cloudy wort to the mash tun) and only leave less than 1/2litre of wort behind. Effiencies can be up to 90% The disadvantage of my set up is that the area below the manifold holds a gallon of water. For average gravity brews there is no problem because my sparging gravity drops below 1006 before I have collected my preboil volume. However for high gravity brews eg Thomas Hardy Ale which I have recently made I could have done without having that excess gallon underneath the manifold, paticularly since my brewheat boiler doesn't brew hard enough to evaporate sufficient liquid. This is where your plate would be extremely useful particularly if it will drain down to 1/2pint. Obviously tipping isn't an option as the outlet is in the middle of the mashtun. Any ideas?
At the present time I use a 2mil stainless steel manifold on legs and also stuff a circular piece of stainless 2mil mesh up the outlet tap with muslin wrapped round it. This normally works fine because I can tip it (returning any cloudy wort to the mash tun) and only leave less than 1/2litre of wort behind. Effiencies can be up to 90% The disadvantage of my set up is that the area below the manifold holds a gallon of water. For average gravity brews there is no problem because my sparging gravity drops below 1006 before I have collected my preboil volume. However for high gravity brews eg Thomas Hardy Ale which I have recently made I could have done without having that excess gallon underneath the manifold, paticularly since my brewheat boiler doesn't brew hard enough to evaporate sufficient liquid. This is where your plate would be extremely useful particularly if it will drain down to 1/2pint. Obviously tipping isn't an option as the outlet is in the middle of the mashtun. Any ideas?
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I actually got an increase in efficiencyDaaB wrote:there can be a slight loss of efficiency but imo the benefits out weight that.


The lager I brewed last weekend doing a 18 liter strike and a 22 liter sparge done batch sparge resulted in a 29.9 point efficiency.Quite happy with that.
Daab the recirculating interests me do you have a pump system? Do you think it will add bitter flavors from the grain hulls? I have contemplated doing the same myself just lost the nerve thinking about getting too much out of the grain and ruining my brew. It is from all the reading I have done I have no evidence that it would bitter the brew.
Daab the recirculating interests me do you have a pump system? Do you think it will add bitter flavors from the grain hulls? I have contemplated doing the same myself just lost the nerve thinking about getting too much out of the grain and ruining my brew. It is from all the reading I have done I have no evidence that it would bitter the brew.