Microbrewing v Homebrewing

Get advice on making beer from raw ingredients (malt, hops, water and yeast)
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Horatio
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Re: Microbrewing v Homebrewing

Post by Horatio » Sat Apr 02, 2011 10:27 am

This is all very interesting!

Heres one that I would really like someone to help me with:

I use yeast from Crouch Vale (given to me by their brewer). The Crouch Vale brewer tells me that they reach FG in about 3 to 4 days. When I use this yeast (having pitched a very healthy 2 litre starter into 23l) it takes twice as long even when using tempertaure control? It produces an amazing amount of yeast on the top, which I crop for later use. This yeast head will stay on the wort for ages if I let it (I crash cool after reaching FG). I have even followed one of their recipes to the letter and it doesn't make any difference. The only thing I can see that would really be different is our water profiles.

I would love to be able to make a beer that was as lovely as say Brewers Gold, that would be drinkable in two to three weeks as Crouch Vale's is, but mine takes at least 4 to 5 weeks to get anywhere near drinkable? :? I don't just mean clarirty either as, like Trucker, I drink with my tastebuds not my eyes. Don't get me wrong it is a great pint when it is ready but I would love to be able to emulate commercial time frames when needed.

Would love to hear what people think on this?

:D
If I had all the money I'd spent on brewing... I'd spend it on brewing!

weiht

Re: Microbrewing v Homebrewing

Post by weiht » Sat Apr 02, 2011 1:46 pm

Add some finings, I dont think that clarity is all about just being pleasing to the eye. It helps make the excess yeast still in suspension to drop, and that will definitely also affect the taste. I fine more consistently now, and my beers which used to take a month to condition before being drinkable, now they can be consumed at from 2 weeks and get better over time

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Horatio
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Re: Microbrewing v Homebrewing

Post by Horatio » Sat Apr 02, 2011 4:15 pm

No its nothing to do with finings as my beer is very clear reasonably early. I'm talking mainly about the fermentation time difference when using the same yeast under (as far as I know) the same conditions. I agree that sometimes cloudyness will have an effect on flavour but this is not what i'm experiencing. Even if the beer clears after a week or so it still doesn't taste the same until it has had a few more weeks maturing. But as I said originally, its the difference in fermentation time that puzzles me? Cheers anyway. :D
If I had all the money I'd spent on brewing... I'd spend it on brewing!

smdjoachim

Re: Microbrewing v Homebrewing

Post by smdjoachim » Sat Apr 02, 2011 4:18 pm

Try overpitching.Microbrewers over pitch so the beer gets off to a good start and a quick fermentation.After all time is money

Graham

Re: Microbrewing v Homebrewing

Post by Graham » Sat Apr 02, 2011 8:37 pm

smdjoachim wrote:After all time is money
And quality is crap.

Graham

Re: Microbrewing v Homebrewing

Post by Graham » Sat Apr 02, 2011 8:56 pm

Horatio wrote:Lots
Welcome to the world of a real brewers' top-working yeast. You have a tremendous advantage over most packaged stuff. You are the proud owner of the real stuff, and for those that are not used to it, its vitality often comes as some surprise.

Ask Crouch Vale if they rouse - they probably do. That will speed fermentation. Bear in mind also that our 18-inch vessels are not sympathetic to fast fermentation - six-feet is optimum.

Don't allow the yeast to drop in at the end of fermentation; it is pointless to let the yeast drop in when the next stage is trying to get it out again, in order to produce a clear beer.

Oh, I have just read that clarity is not your problem, but speed to drinkability.
Last edited by Graham on Sun Apr 03, 2011 7:32 am, edited 1 time in total.

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trucker5774
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Re: Microbrewing v Homebrewing

Post by trucker5774 » Sun Apr 03, 2011 12:17 am

Graham seems to have the answer............Not EVERYTHING is the same. The FV is a huge difference in the same way that bulk conditioning is. My beer may well be even better if I was to sit on it for a while. I'm just not willing to have that much kit to have a load of barrels around. Bottles are fine but different in taste and carbonation. I tend to just have a couple of barrels and one or two brews in bottles.
John

Drinking/Already drunk........ Trucker's Anti-Freeze (Turbo Cider), Truckers Delight, Night Trucker, Rose wine, Truckers Hitch, Truckers Revenge, Trucker's Lay-by, Trucker's Trailer, Flower Truck, Trucker's Gearshift, Trucker's Horn, Truck Crash, Fixby Gold!

Conditioning... Doing what? Get it down your neck! ........

FV 1............
FV 2............
FV 3............
Next Brews..... Trucker's Jack Knife

Graham

Re: Microbrewing v Homebrewing

Post by Graham » Sun Apr 03, 2011 7:09 am

trucker5774 wrote:Graham seems to have the answer............Not EVERYTHING is the same. The FV is a huge difference in the same way that bulk conditioning is. My beer may well be even better if I was to sit on it for a while. I'm just not willing to have that much kit to have a load of barrels around. Bottles are fine but different in taste and carbonation. I tend to just have a couple of barrels and one or two brews in bottles.
The thing is that most packaged yeasts seem to lose their top-working characteristics and do not seem to have the vigour that I would expect, thus many home brewers are surprised when they obtain some live brewers' yeast and find it goes like the clappers and tries to crawl out of the bin. On occasions there are questions on here, along with a photo of a perfectly good yeast, asking if something is wrong with the brew, because they had not seen anything like it before. Home brewers seem to have got used to bottom workers and regard it as the norm.

I happen to think that top-workers best suit home brewed British ales and beers; our equipment is similar to that of old-time breweries and similar to that of the surviving long-established regional brewers. In my view top workers are easier to separate from the beer. Some types of top-working yeast do need rousing, at least once, and in some cases, as in Yorkshire yeast and Ringwood yeast, more than once during the period of fermentation. Yorkshire brewers liked their yeast, even though it demanded so much attention, because once they stopped rousing, it stopped fermenting (or at least slowed dramatically). This gave them the ability to control the gravity at which they racked their beer and enabled them to produce relatively weak beers that drank "full" for their gravity. Sometimes our shallow, eighteen-inch deep vessels work to our advantage, inasmuch as we can often get away without the need to rouse, whereas a commercial brewery using the same yeast would have to rouse. With other strains it can take longer to ferment in our shallow vessels than a commercial brewer would experience in his or her six-foot+ deep vessels.

Nevertheless, anything longer than 5-days to reach somewhere close to 'predicted' final gravity would be unusual, for me at least, but not a disaster. I am also somewhat bemused at the common practice of leaving the beer for days on end in a bin, so-called 'secondary'. As far as I am concerned, any 'secondary' should be done in a sealed cask, so that CO2 is building up naturally. When the cask is vented, prior to consumption or bottling, the nasty volatiles of fermentation are purged out of the beer by the release of CO2.

Almost any beer will benefit from an extended period of maturation, even Crouch Vale beer, but these days people are getting used to what would be regarded in the past as 'green' beer being served up in the pubs. Also, home brewing, courtesy of the disinformation highway, is moving far away from best practice. Many of the short-cuts frequently advocated, and often spouted with a certain degree of pride as if it is somehow makes the advocate cleverer than the rest of us, only causes problems further down line; time to drinkability being one of them; 'orrible beer being another. If people are going to trap those nasty volatiles in the beer, by bottling straight from the fermentation vessel, or transferring to a Cornelius keg (which is just a big bottle) and immediately slapping a ton of pressure on it, then so be it. I suppose people can get used to anything.

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Re: Microbrewing v Homebrewing

Post by WishboneBrewery » Sun Apr 03, 2011 9:15 am

Graham wrote:If people are going to trap those nasty volatiles in the beer, by bottling straight from the fermentation vessel, or transferring to a Cornelius keg (which is just a big bottle) and immediately slapping a ton of pressure on it, then so be it. I suppose people can get used to anything.
Sounds rather scaremongering.
So does this include 7-10 days in the FV bucket, followed by dropping onto dissolved priming sugars in a bottling bucket and immediately bottling?
People can get used to anything, but also tastes change and if the beer tastes good to the drinker where is the problem?

The Scenario at work:
FV for 7 days (usually 3-4 days to Chill Gravity).
Beer Transferred to sealed Conditioning Tank where it can start to be racked to cask from 24 hours after transferring.

Surely this sealed system is no different to your Bottle or Cornie keg?

It is left to the Landlords discretion as to how long to 'cask condition' or 'mature' the beer, Green beer can obviously be sold to Landlords (this isn't the ideal way but it is the commercial way that breweries with a rapid turn-over have to do).
Good landlord = Good Beer?? maybe?

Graham

Re: Microbrewing v Homebrewing

Post by Graham » Sun Apr 03, 2011 9:57 am

pdtnc wrote: Sounds rather scaremongering.
So does this include 7-10 days in the FV bucket, followed by dropping onto dissolved priming sugars in a bottling bucket and immediately bottling?
People can get used to anything, but also tastes change and if the beer tastes good to the drinker where is the problem?
Well, everybody has taste; mostly bad.
pdtnc wrote: The Scenario at work:
FV for 7 days (usually 3-4 days to Chill Gravity).
Beer Transferred to sealed Conditioning Tank where it can start to be racked to cask from 24 hours after transferring.

Surely this sealed system is no different to your Bottle or Cornie keg?
Not at all. Firstly it is not easy to 'condition' in twenty-four hours; it is really a settling tank. I do something similar myself. Secondly, one assumes that the stuff is transferred to traditional casks. In which case the beer gets a degree of conditioning in cask and is vented a day or two before serving.

If you were bottling that beer, though, it would sit in the conditioning tank for two weeks or more to fix, and then vented before bottling.
pdtnc wrote: It is left to the Landlords discretion as to how long to 'cask condition' or 'mature' the beer, Green beer can obviously be sold to Landlords (this isn't the ideal way but it is the commercial way that breweries with a rapid turn-over have to do).
Good landlord = Good Beer?? maybe?
True, but a couple of weeks is enough to get rid of the nasties providing that it is vented before consumption. Further maturation, meaning better, rounded flavours would be a bonus, although it does not work for all beers. Many regional brewers and some micros do not ship their beers until it has had sufficient time in storage for the beer to fix. Meantime, I believe, is one that holds its beer in storage for a minimum of two weeks before letting it go out their door. I would do the same; not a good idea to allow the reputation of a commercial brewery to be spoiled by unskilled or cash-strapped publicans.

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Horatio
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Re: Microbrewing v Homebrewing

Post by Horatio » Sun Apr 03, 2011 10:04 am

Thanks for the advice Graham; I certainly hadn't condidered rousing or the size/shape of the FV as an issue but it makes perfect sense. I would usually rouse if I felt that the gravity wasn't falling fast enough when using other yeasts. I suppose that just because I am seeing a massive, healthy yeast head my mind is telling that all is on track! Fooled by the yeasty goodness. :oops: :lol: On my next brew I shall rouse the yeast daily and see how much it speeds up femenation.

I have been very happy with the Crouch Vale yeast and loved the fact that it produces a good top crop that is ripe for skimming. It also produces a much better beer as aend result; especially when I compare it to those that I have made using my normal standard yeast (S-04). If Ican reduce the time it takes to reach FG then I will be even happier.

I always transfer my beer from the primary FV into a secondary but use a polypin so that it is sealed; maybe I am using the wrong terminology there and should call a maturation vessel?


Thanks to everyone for the advice and sorry to the OP for hi-jacking the thread! :oops:

:D :D :D
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Re: Microbrewing v Homebrewing

Post by WishboneBrewery » Sun Apr 03, 2011 11:19 am

I get ya now, cheers Graham :)

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Dennis King
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Re: Microbrewing v Homebrewing

Post by Dennis King » Sun Apr 03, 2011 1:37 pm

Horatio - how accommodating are Crouch Vale at giving away their yeast, would like to try using their yeast as I believe its the Ridleys strain.

Found Grahams comments very interesting. I ferment for a week then transfer to a polypin, leave for 2-3 weeks in which time there is a slight gas build up so I tend to vent 2-3 times in that period. Then prime, move somewhere warmer for around 2 days, move back to garage to settle for 24 for hours before drinking. After many years of experimenting with different approaches found this works for me.

dougmac

Re: Microbrewing v Homebrewing

Post by dougmac » Mon Apr 11, 2011 9:44 am

Hi All,

I thought i would mention things from the pub ordering end and it's effect of maturation of beer. As i look after the cellar in our volunteer run pub (www.raveninn.co.uk) which has won "Clwyd Pub of the Year 2011" without even being mentioned in the good beer guide ever I feel i can comment, though in the bigger schemes of things I owe all i know from badgering other publicans.

When ordering beer for a pub it's best not order for the week coming. So in other words I use my cyrstal ball (or a dedicated spreadsheet) and look into the beer order for the week after or beyond, on rear occasions like "Easter", certain royal weddings and christmas (when Micros shut up shop for christmas and new years) even further into the future. So beer will have at least another one to two weeks in cellar before it get up ended, given a shake and racked etc.

Microbrewers "know this" as this is best practise by publicans who are dedicated to a decent pint of ale and in the end it's so we don't run out of beer mid week on a busy stretch. So think of the best pub you go to, yes the one with the best selection of ale, on a blackboard it tells you what's up next (or in the cellar) and has a good turnover of real ale clientele. This may be the reason they go there, because they get the best tasting beer even though the same beer could be on sale next door at a pub that doesn't look after their cellar particauarly well.

Is it because they take pride in the quality of their beer and it has a little longer to mature? Also micros might have a beer sitting there for a month before they sell the cask, plenty of times we get beer near to it's best by date so it has been sitting around for a while gathering taste.


My thoughts only.

raiderman

Re: Microbrewing v Homebrewing

Post by raiderman » Tue Apr 12, 2011 3:54 pm

I am never sure about the idea of producing beer quickly. Yeast has 2 phases and it always seems to me that it ought to be allowed to have a bit of time in its alcohol producing phase in order to let flavours develop. Unfortunately the only evidence I have in support of this theory is supplied by Greene King! Greene King who have over the years shifted more gallons of crap beer than most used to find they could brew ferment rack off barrel and get the stuff out to the pubs in 7 days, 10 max. IPA in particular used to be thin and nasty, but if you can remember Abbot in the 80's it was pretty variable too. Eventually they realised they were sacrificing quality for speed and they slowed the fermentation down and made a better beer. They late hopped - with hop oil - so not just timing but slowing the process down did have a positive effect. ok IPA is still shite but Abbots generally ok.

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