Preparing for Next brew

[PieOPah]

It is going to be a couple of weeks before I next get to brew again but since I am going to be trying Fly Sparging I thought I would try a few other things slightly differently.

I still have to finish making my 'sparge lid' which should hopefully work (A large funnel glued onto a fermenter bin lid - lots of 1.5 mil holes drilled into lid first - kind of like a large shower head or watering can rose).

Now I expect that I will be collecting more wort than usual (I normally batch sparge) and I hate to waste any of this.

Since I intend to try and hit approximately 40 pints, would longer boils make much of a difference (I want to evaporate more so I get all the wort used). The plan is to boil until everything is in and then add my hops and start their schedule.

I'm not one for bothering about hitting a specific gravity. If I get higher than anticipated then it is all good for me

Is there anything negative that could come from this?

[Andy]

I *must* see pics of this sparge lid when complete

[PieOPah]

I'll be taking a few pics when I start to finish it off. Only managed a few holes before snapping the drill bit - since buying new bits I haven't had time to continue....

[PieOPah]

With the 'funnel sprinklet' it means I can do other things while it is sparging.

[Andy]

Aren't you going to get massive heat loss in that funnel arrangement PoP ?

[PieOPah]

Aren't you going to get massive heat loss in that funnel arrangement PoP ?

Shouldn't think so.

While mashing I will have a regular lid on the MT. I will only use the funnel lid when sparging.

but without it you can't brew...get a jug and get brewing

eh?

[PieOPah]

Ah

The sparger WILL be finished before my next brew. Even it it wasn't I wouldn't let this stop me Where there's a will...........

[Matt]

Interesting PoP.

Maybe you could lag the funnel to help with the heat loss?

You could shorten the name to 'Funkler'

[PieOPah]

Is heat loss an issue when sparging? I thought it was only during the Mash that you had to worry about this?

[Matt]

My only basic understanding (stand by for experts arriving) is that we heat sparge water to 170F and aim for minimum heat loss so that, when it hits the grain bed during sparging, the grain temp remains stable which promotes better sugar extraction.

[PieOPah]

Oh yeah, another thought I have had....

With the spinny sparge arm, this allows the sparge water to basically hit most of the grain.

With my Funnel, I will only be hitting the centre of the grain bed. Now since there will be liquid a couple of inches above the grain, will this still be okay? I am aiming for a gentle rain of sparge water so it shouldn't cause any 'rivers' through the mash.

[Matt]

PoP,

FWIW I reckon you're going to need a good flow rate control method, since you won't be able to observe with the whole lid down.

[Scooby]

Is heat loss an issue when sparging? I thought it was only during the Mash that you had to worry about this?

SteveD has mentioned this, most book state the sparge water should be 77-80c but if you use a sprinkler system a lot of heat is lost from leaving the nozzle and hitting the surface of the grain, a better method is to monitor the temp of the grain bed

[PieOPah]

I could cut a view hole and glue a bit of perspex in place. That should do the trick

[Scooby]

With most sparge systems though you can bring your HLT up to boilng and sparge without raising the grain bed above 77 deg c which is the ideal.
I boil my sparge water, but don't maintain the temperature thoughout the sparge, that way the temperature is dropping as the ph is rising in the grain bed and reduces the risk of tannin extraction.

Good point DaaB, today I started with my sparge water at a boil and then turned it off, the max grain temp was 80c and dropped to 74c at the end. The point I'm making is that if you sparge with water at 80c in the HLT by the time it hits the grain the temp is in the 60s