Dry hopping
Dry hopping
Apologies if this has been asked before. I am steadily working my way through GW,s excellent recipe book. A few of them advise dry hopping with a few cones of the relevant hop.
I only have pellets available to me and wondered how many pellets would you see as equivalent to "a few cones". I have googled dry hopping but seem to be inundated with American sites that really go over the top with dry hopping. Nothing against that but my main reason for brewing is to recreate English ales that I cannot obtain where I live.
I only have pellets available to me and wondered how many pellets would you see as equivalent to "a few cones". I have googled dry hopping but seem to be inundated with American sites that really go over the top with dry hopping. Nothing against that but my main reason for brewing is to recreate English ales that I cannot obtain where I live.
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Re: Dry hopping
Where do you live?lefkasman wrote: I cannot obtain where I live.
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Re: Dry hopping
That's what I was gonna ask, "where on earth do you lay your head" lol.
But all I can say is using pellets, you would use 10% less than leaf, well that what the brewing calc's sort of say
But all I can say is using pellets, you would use 10% less than leaf, well that what the brewing calc's sort of say
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Re: Dry hopping
Maybe Lefkas, Greece?
Lucky chap
Cheers. Tom
Lucky chap
Cheers. Tom
Re: Dry hopping
Got it in one. I have a very good supplier in Athens but he only deals in hop pellets.soupdragon wrote:Maybe Lefkas, Greece?
Lucky chap
Cheers. Tom
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Re: Dry hopping
About a gram per litre. Try it, then adjust for future brews to suit your taste.
But where will you get them from?
Guy
But where will you get them from?
Guy
Re: Dry hopping
Personally I would just stick with pellets and with some trial and error you will see what suits your tastes. Pellets for many are better to dry hop with as they will sink down to the trub if you have means to cool crash the FV. It also keeps things simple as you don't need 2 lots of the same hops etc. I am 100% pellet these days, I only use leaf if there is no other option.
Re: Dry hopping
Thanks as I said I can get pellets from Athens. Just didn't want to overdo it and it end up like an American pale ale, too hoppy.guypettigrew wrote:About a gram per litre. Try it, then adjust for future brews to suit your taste.
But where will you get them from?
Guy
Re: Dry hopping
Start with a low amount per L and you can adjust as you learn to your likinglefkasman wrote:Thanks as I said I can get pellets from Athens. Just didn't want to overdo it and it end up like an American pale ale, too hoppy.guypettigrew wrote:About a gram per litre. Try it, then adjust for future brews to suit your taste.
But where will you get them from?
Guy
Re: Dry hopping
Thanks, I'll start with around 10gms and see how it goes. I usually ferment in a water bath with a aquarium heater in it so I'll just pull the plug on that to crash cool. I've never risked brewing in the summer here and the winters are pretty cool.Rhodesy wrote:Personally I would just stick with pellets and with some trial and error you will see what suits your tastes. Pellets for many are better to dry hop with as they will sink down to the trub if you have means to cool crash the FV. It also keeps things simple as you don't need 2 lots of the same hops etc. I am 100% pellet these days, I only use leaf if there is no other option.
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Re: Dry hopping
You could google the recipe and see what others have used in there attempts. Isnt it summat like 10% less for pellets over cone
Re: Dry hopping
I've got to say that i always found that phrase in the book particularly unhelpful, i mean "A few cones"? what two or three? you would hardly notice it in 23litres. For me if it's less than 1g per litre then i doubt i'd even bother, so maybe go with 1g per litre and don't worry if it's pellets or cones, i doubt a 2g reduction for using pellets would be detectable in the finished beer. And i wouldn't worry to much about ending up with a very hoppy APA style, for starters you'd have to be using very pungent US hops, and secondly you'd have to be really over doing the dry hops, say 4-7g per litre.
Re: Dry hopping
I've got some centennials which are high so maybe just start with the Golding's and see how it goes.Bazz wrote:I've got to say that i always found that phrase in the book particularly unhelpful, i mean "A few cones"? what two or three? you would hardly notice it in 23litres. For me if it's less than 1g per litre then i doubt i'd even bother, so maybe go with 1g per litre and don't worry if it's pellets or cones, i doubt a 2g reduction for using pellets would be detectable in the finished beer. And i wouldn't worry to much about ending up with a very hoppy APA style, for starters you'd have to be using very pungent US hops, and secondly you'd have to be really over doing the dry hops, say 4-7g per litre.
I also noticed in the book that GW advises only to use quality aroma hops for dry hopping and is against using high alpha acid hops for this purpose. But if you look at his Young's Special recipe he dry hops with Target.
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Re: Dry hopping
What do you mean by 'high'? If you're talking about the alpha acid in the hops then it probably doesn't matter. The bitterness doesn't come out of hops at fermenting and kegging temperatures--or so I understand. It's the aroma you need to be thinking about. If you like the smell of them, then chuck them in!lefkasman wrote: I've got some centennials which are high so maybe just start with the Golding's and see how it goes.
Guy