Filtering?

[dshar]

Hi guys
I find the yeast at the bottom of my bottles of beer a nuisance and would like to minimise it as much as possible.

My current routine involves crash cooling as cold as possible (1c) for 2-3 days then into the bottling bucket. I use a Brewbucket so quite good at not disturbing the trub. However, i still get more yeast than id like.

Does anyone filter before bottling? I was thinking of using coffee type filter (sanitised of course) to remove majority of solids. Good/bad idea?

Main potential issue i see with thia is if you filter out too much yeast for bottle carbonation? Dont know if (enough) yeast cells would fet through the filter?

Good/bad idea? Other thoughts?

Cheers all

[Haydnexport]

I have done in the past, i have 2 custom 10" water filters made out of stainless steel. i used 20 micron and 5 micron filters in them (disposable) , i used to kick the sediment up by accident in my previous brewing area due to lack of room and being inexperienced (impatient). There will be still some yeast this way.

[Rookie]

I'd try a longer cold crash.

[LeeH]

I'd try a longer cold crash.

This and maybe try some finings?

Rotate the tube on the brew bucket further up?


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[dshar]

I’ll try a longer cold crash, i thought 2-3 days was plenty,
Will also try some filter paper.
On the BB tap, i already leave it at the top point.
For finings, i use a tbspoon of irish moss.
Suppose what id like is extremely little sediment

[LeeH]

You’re just going to oxygenate the beer if you start using paper filters.

If you want perfectly clear beer in a bottle you need to force carb in a keg and bottle from that.

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[john luc]

build a centrifuge. spin out the solids first then bottle

[dshar]

You’re just going to oxygenate the beer if you start using paper filters.

If you want perfectly clear beer in a bottle you need to force carb in a keg and bottle from that.

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Force carbing and centrifuging sound too tricky for me and would involve more gear which i dont have space for.

Lee- why would paper filters oxyrenate the beer? Id expect it would run through only a bit slower than just running straight into the bottling bucket?

Cheers

[Meatymc]

Fine with gelatine as you're dropping temp from fermenting to 2-3 degrees. I now use a full 12g pack per 21L brew but you'll need to play around with your carbing if you want a noticeable 'head'. I'm currently drinking a very clear/little sediment 60g dextrose carbed 7% bitter and finding no head although but the beer itself is as 'lively' as I like it.

I'm coming to the conclusion there is always a compomise of one sort or another when only bottling.

[Robwalkeragain]

Yeast scavenges oxygen so I would embrace it with bottles. You’re packaging with a fair amount of headspace - filtering will mean you have no protection against oxidation. I would agree that paper filters will likely cause oxidation, when you pour a beer through anything porous it will increase the surface area and cause foaming giving the ambient air plenty of time to work.
Other option is to buy a bottling gun with a corny, co2 purge the bottles and you can have clear carbonated beer in bottle.

[Rookie]

How much time does your beer sit in the FV before you cold crash?

[guypettigrew]

Hi guys
I find the yeast at the bottom of my bottles of beer a nuisance and would like to minimise it as much as possible.

Why and how is it a nuisance? Doesn't it just stay behind in the bottle when you pour the beer out?

Guy

[dshar]

Lot more to it than i thought, thanks for the tips.

Want to keep things simple as poss, so i’ll try a longer cold crash, maybe upto 5 days. After that will experiment with gelatine. If that doesnt do it, i’ll look at kegs/force carb etc.

@rookie- i normally leave in FV for 2 weeks before cold crashing.

@guy- when i pour the beer, i have to pour really slowly and carefully and still i see the bottom stuff rise and make the beer cloudy eapecially towards the end. At worst i get the yeasty taste. Im not too keen on cloudiness but my main issue is that it affects the taste (or at least i think it does!). What i have at the bottom is a good couple of millimeters of stuff, a lot more than in a bottle conditioned beer i would buy...

I should add that i do like a reasonable head on the beer, so appreciate that it will be a trade-off between the two (head-vs sediment)

[guypettigrew]

@guy- when i pour the beer, i have to pour really slowly and carefully and still i see the bottom stuff rise and make the beer cloudy eapecially towards the end. At worst i get the yeasty taste. I should add that i do like a reasonable head on the beer, so appreciate that it will be a trade-off between the two (head-vs sediment)

Totally with you there. I hate the taste of loads of yeast in beer. hence why I can't be bothered with the new trend for unfined beer.

No problem if the cloudiness is hop haze or chill haze or wheat haze. Just find loads of yeast gives the beer an unpleasant harsh taste.

It's unlikely a longer cold spell will sort the problem out. Finings in the bottling bucket will be the way to go. From your description it's clear (no pun intended!) the yeast isn't settling firmly on the bottom of the bottle.

Gelatine may the right fining to use. I wouldn'tknow, I've never used it. My choice is auxiliary finings plus isinglass. Should give you clear beer in 24-48 hours with the yeast welded to the bottom of the bottle!

Guy

[Robwalkeragain]

What yeast are you using? Some yeasts compact better than others. Might want to look at your mash separation throughout the brew too (mash, cold break in boil) because they will help reduce the amount of sediment in bottle.