First brew advice please

[Bedders1802]

Hi all

I have just done my first all grain brew and bottled it. It has been at 21 c for a week to prime and is quite clear until I put it in the fridge to cool so I could test one for carbonation, it then goes very cloudy as it goes cold. Will it settle and clear eventually or will it stay like that. I did not do a cold break as I had no chiller but am getting one before I next brew. Also how long do I mature it for till it gets better, I was thinking about 6 to 8 weeks. It is an American IPA at 5.5% and I have no more information about recipe as it was a full mash kit from my local homebrew shop.

Many thanks in advance
Bedders

[orlando]

Most beers are clear at room temperature. If there are haze-producing proteins and tannins (both primarily from malt) suspended in the beer, haze particles don't form because of the warm temperature. When beer is chilled, these proteins and tannins react to clump into larger particles that are big enough to reflect light. Unfortunately there is nothing you can do about it at this point other than serving at closer to room temperature.

You have highlighted one of the problems, not chilling after the boil. However the problem could have occurred further up the chain. Problems can begin in the mash, particularly if you have not dealt with high alkalinity in your brewing water. If the mash pH is too high, or the sparge water is too alkaline proteins and tannins can make unbreakable bonds, made worse if the boil is actually more like a simmer then compounded by a lack of an effective cold break. Did you use kettle finings or post fermentation finings? If not that can also help in getting you to clearer Beer. With enough time your Beer will clear but maybe not within its best drinking window.

As a rule of thumb condition a Beer for a week for every 10 degrees of gravity. A more informative method is to taste one every week (day? ) to see for yourself how the Beer changes. Keep notes as you do. Some of the best fun you can have with your trousers on.

[Bedders1802]

Many thanks for the advice/info Orlando it is much appreciated and very informative. I have tested a bottle last night and tastes quite good but also not much body. Will this improve over time

[orlando]

Many thanks for the advice/info Orlando it is much appreciated and very informative. I have tested a bottle last night and tastes quite good but also not much body. Will this improve over time

No. Body is what you get from alcohol and unfermentable sugars such as Dextrins. You can also improve body by using adjuncts like Oats and flaked Barley. Adjusting your mash temp to 66+ will do the same thing or choosing a yeast that is a low attenuator i.e. it finishes "early". As you can see there are quite a few strings a brewer can pull to achieve their aim. Having said all that if the Beer has only been in bottle for a short time it will improve as the yeast slowly ticks over until it is finally finished with what resources are left. Think of a bell shaped curve, your Beer is just coming up to the peak.

[Top Cat]

Hi Bedders.
Just endorsing all what Orlando has posted.
Just to add, in the early eighties when I started grain brewing, I used to cool my wort that I had boiled in a large stainless pot, in a bath of cold water.
Later after a little more experience I purchased a Bru heat plastic boiler for convenience, but lost the facility to quickly cool. Subsequently I got cloudy beer and couldn’t understand why. I wrote to a brewing magazine, practical wine making and brewing I think, who explained to me what a quick cold break achieves, so with a makeshift piece of micro bore copper pipe I made a chiller that solved the problem.
You will find over the next few brews, your eyes will be a good gauge, if the beer is clear after chilling and racking into your fermentation bin, and a satisfactory fermentation is accomplished you’ll be ok.
Generally if you chill your beer to fridge temperature it may go a a LITTLE cloudy but should clear when warming up to drinking temperature.

[Bedders1802]

Thanks top cat I am going to purchase a wort chiller before my next brew.
For my next brew I am going to have a go at mango pale ale using
4kg maris otter
1.2kg mangrove Jack's pale liquid malt
Crystal malt
Torrified wheat
Citra hops
Mosaic hops
Safeale 05 us yeast

My question is how much crystal malt and torrified wheat should I use. I am aiming for 23ltr batch.

Many thanks
Bedders

[Bedders1802]

Ps am thinking of putting 1ltr mango juice in

[orlando]

My question is how much crystal malt and torrified wheat should I use. I am aiming for 23ltr batch.

Crystal malts provide body, colour and sweetness and help with head retention but can end up being cloying if you use too much. I suggest you start with 5% of the total grist, although you could use more depending on the EBC, I'm assuming an EBC of circa 150. Torrified can help with head retention as well. Given the Crystal does this too how about using this at 3%?

[Top Cat]

Thanks top cat I am going to purchase a wort chiller before my next brew.
For my next brew I am going to have a go at mango pale ale using
4kg maris otter
1.2kg mangrove Jack's pale liquid malt
Crystal malt
Torrified wheat
Citra hops
Mosaic hops
Safeale 05 us yeast

My question is how much crystal malt and torrified wheat should I use. I am aiming for 23ltr batch.

Many thanks
Bedders

It really depends on your taste, crystal malt has a defining character, it deepens the colour of your brew and imparts a slight caramel taste imo. I would start between 200-400 grams of 150 ebc (you can buy it in different roasts 150 is medium) and only experience of taste will tell you what’s right. If your using citra hops for aroma/taste you don’t want anything in there that will conflict with the taste, so work on the low side to start.
Torrified wheat for head retention, use in lower portions to start, though I haven’t had a noticeable change of taste when I’ve used this adjunct.
Hope this helps, I’m sure you may get more recommendations!

[Kingfisher4]

Using carapils instead of 150 crystal malt would be an alternative, It adds the head retention and mouth feel character without too much caramel. I have also found naked malted oats about 200 g for a 23 L batch also improves both as well, as an alternative to explore. Both could be used together with no problem.

[Bedders1802]

Thanks kingfisher4. What about adding mango juice or puree to add a sweet then bitter finish to my mango pale ale. Any advice please