Brewbrite

Get advice on making beer from raw ingredients (malt, hops, water and yeast)
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Jocky
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Re: Brewbrite

Post by Jocky » Fri Apr 22, 2022 3:04 pm

f00b4r wrote:
Fri Apr 22, 2022 2:15 pm
Eric wrote:Some say beer tastes better when neither filtered or fined. I mostly agree with the former, but for me, good fining removes the stuff that can mask many of the better qualities of beer that might be removed by filtering.
I would agree with Eric on the fining, it isn’t just the fact it looks clearer, which may change perception, but also that some particles muddy the flavour or just add in unpleasant additional ones.
I don’t know many that filter fine particles at the homebrew level (fine enough to strip out flavour).
I agree with all of that.

One thing I've wondered:
- Tannins (or polyphenols) combining with protein will cause haze in beer.
- Tannins can also contribute harsh flavours in beer.

Are these the same tannins? If they are then that would explain how the beer smooths out as it clears.
Ingredients: Water, Barley, Hops, Yeast, Seaweed, Blood, Sweat, The swim bladder of a sturgeon, My enemies tears, Scenes of mild peril, An otter's handbag and Riboflavin.

f00b4r
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Re: Brewbrite

Post by f00b4r » Fri Apr 22, 2022 3:54 pm

Good question Jocky. It would be interesting to see what professional brewers with the equipment to cetrifuge/filter and are actually trying to achieve by it (both in terms of what is removed and the end result of the removal of different particles).
Personally, in terms of bottle conditioned beers, I also try and leave any yeast (plus other particles) in the bottle when pouring even if it means leaving 1-2cm in the case of some beers/yeast; some beers it seems it does not make that much difference to the taste with but others it is quite noticable.

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IPA
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Re: Brewbrite

Post by IPA » Fri Apr 22, 2022 4:36 pm

f00b4r wrote:
Fri Apr 22, 2022 3:54 pm
Good question Jocky. It would be interesting to see what professional brewers with the equipment to cetrifuge/filter and are actually trying to achieve by it (both in terms of what is removed and the end result of the removal of different particles).
Personally, in terms of bottle conditioned beers, I also try and leave any yeast (plus other particles) in the bottle when pouring even if it means leaving 1-2cm in the case of some beers/yeast; some beers it seems it does not make that much difference to the taste with but others it is quite noticable.
The point I'm trying to make is that there absolutely no visible sediment in the bottle,or glass, when following my process. And it works no matter what yeast is used. I can even brew Wit with the same result
"You're not drunk if you can lie on the floor without holding on." Dean Martin

1. Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, thoroughly used, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming... "f*ck, what a trip

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Re: Brewbrite

Post by guypettigrew » Fri Apr 22, 2022 5:45 pm

Sounds good to me. It's on my list for the next MM purchase. Thanks.

Guy

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Re: Brewbrite

Post by soupdragon » Mon May 23, 2022 10:19 am

Hey @guypettigrew

Have you had the chance to try it for yourself yet? I've just bought a pot and will give it a go myself in a few weeks.
It's always good to get the views of a first time user 👍

Cheers Tom

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Re: Brewbrite

Post by guypettigrew » Mon May 23, 2022 1:21 pm

Haven't bought any yet--next MM order will include it.

Looking forward to hearing how you get on with it.

Guy

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Re: Brewbrite

Post by soupdragon » Mon May 23, 2022 1:42 pm

Will report back in a few weeks. I hope this stuff is idiot proof and my wort into the fermenter is the clearest I've ever had 🤞

Cheers Tom

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Re: Brewbrite

Post by richard080561 » Mon May 23, 2022 1:48 pm

IPA wrote:
Wed Apr 20, 2022 1:34 pm
Now that this thread has moved to here I will repeat how I produce remarkably bright beer. And yes although Brewbright contains irish moss (chondrus crispus) , a seaweed, to obtain the clarity that I outline you need to use all three finings. Brewbrite,Protofloc and gelatine. Please note that the gelatine is added to the SECOND FV not to the keg!!

Well for those who are interested this is how I do it.
For the record I brew with a Braumeister fitted with a BacBrewing Springer but the method will work with any all grain brewing equipment and I chill with a plate chiller fitted with a Blichmann Thrumometer

Have your water analysed. Neil (Wallybrew) on this forum provides any excellent service.
Adjust your water using Graham's water treatment calculator also on this forum.
Mash for 90 minutes
Boil for 90 minutes
For a brewlength of 23 litres. 15 minutes before the end of the boil add 1/2 of a crushed Protofloc tablet and 4 grammes of Brewbrite mixed with a little cold water until it looks like thin soup.
The times of fermentation following will obviously depend on the OG
Approximately seven days of fermentation transfer to a second FV and leave for another four days. Then add three sheets of gelatine disolved in hot water. The gelatine must be softened in cold water first and then drained before adding the hot water!
Three days later transfer to a to a third vessel and add the priming sugar. For an English Bitter use two grammes of white sugar per litre disolved in boiling water and stir gently into the beer to ensure even mixing.
Then bottle or keg. At the same time fill a 500ml PET bottle so that you you can check carbonation progress by squeezing it.
The resulting beer will pour crystal clear from the bottle even if you up-end it and will chill with no haze.
I think the addition of Brewbrite in the boiler is one big factor in this process.

Cheers Ian
I've just bought a BacBrewing Springer but not used it yet. The instructions say not to use Protofloc etc in boil because it will result in the Springer being blocked by "a gelatinous" film.
I assume this is not your experience.
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f00b4r
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Brewbrite

Post by f00b4r » Mon May 23, 2022 2:35 pm

richard080561 wrote:
IPA wrote:
Wed Apr 20, 2022 1:34 pm
Now that this thread has moved to here I will repeat how I produce remarkably bright beer. And yes although Brewbright contains irish moss (chondrus crispus) , a seaweed, to obtain the clarity that I outline you need to use all three finings. Brewbrite,Protofloc and gelatine. Please note that the gelatine is added to the SECOND FV not to the keg!!

Well for those who are interested this is how I do it.
For the record I brew with a Braumeister fitted with a BacBrewing Springer but the method will work with any all grain brewing equipment and I chill with a plate chiller fitted with a Blichmann Thrumometer

Have your water analysed. Neil (Wallybrew) on this forum provides any excellent service.
Adjust your water using Graham's water treatment calculator also on this forum.
Mash for 90 minutes
Boil for 90 minutes
For a brewlength of 23 litres. 15 minutes before the end of the boil add 1/2 of a crushed Protofloc tablet and 4 grammes of Brewbrite mixed with a little cold water until it looks like thin soup.
The times of fermentation following will obviously depend on the OG
Approximately seven days of fermentation transfer to a second FV and leave for another four days. Then add three sheets of gelatine disolved in hot water. The gelatine must be softened in cold water first and then drained before adding the hot water!
Three days later transfer to a to a third vessel and add the priming sugar. For an English Bitter use two grammes of white sugar per litre disolved in boiling water and stir gently into the beer to ensure even mixing.
Then bottle or keg. At the same time fill a 500ml PET bottle so that you you can check carbonation progress by squeezing it.
The resulting beer will pour crystal clear from the bottle even if you up-end it and will chill with no haze.
I think the addition of Brewbrite in the boiler is one big factor in this process.

Cheers Ian
I've just bought a BacBrewing Springer but not used it yet. The instructions say not to use Protofloc etc in boil because it will result in the Springer being blocked by "a gelatinous" film.
I assume this is not your experience.
Ian can probably give you a better answer specific to protofloc but be aware there is apparently a huge difference using a spring filter with hot versus chilled wort, ie if you are sending hot wort out of the tap to another vessel/chiller it works great but if you are chilling your wort first it will likely just clog. It is the main reason, after a fair bit of research on people using them in the real world, that I never got one (I use an immersion chiller and chill in the BM itself).

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MashBag
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Re: Brewbrite

Post by MashBag » Mon May 23, 2022 4:14 pm

I will second that. I didn't either for that very reason.

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Eric
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Re: Brewbrite

Post by Eric » Mon May 23, 2022 4:45 pm

My kettle has a filter, not a Springer, but 15mm copper with saw-cuts, so similar in principle. It works perfectly with whole hops and BrewBrite, the hops stopping the gunge without clogging the filter. With pellets it doesn't work, so BrewBrite is still added with the filter omitted and the boiled wort is run off from above the hop debis.
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Re: Brewbrite

Post by richard080561 » Mon May 23, 2022 7:46 pm

f00b4r wrote:
Mon May 23, 2022 2:35 pm
richard080561 wrote:
IPA wrote:
Wed Apr 20, 2022 1:34 pm
Now that this thread has moved to here I will repeat how I produce remarkably bright beer. And yes although Brewbright contains irish moss (chondrus crispus) , a seaweed, to obtain the clarity that I outline you need to use all three finings. Brewbrite,Protofloc and gelatine. Please note that the gelatine is added to the SECOND FV not to the keg!!

Well for those who are interested this is how I do it.
For the record I brew with a Braumeister fitted with a BacBrewing Springer but the method will work with any all grain brewing equipment and I chill with a plate chiller fitted with a Blichmann Thrumometer

Have your water analysed. Neil (Wallybrew) on this forum provides any excellent service.
Adjust your water using Graham's water treatment calculator also on this forum.
Mash for 90 minutes
Boil for 90 minutes
For a brewlength of 23 litres. 15 minutes before the end of the boil add 1/2 of a crushed Protofloc tablet and 4 grammes of Brewbrite mixed with a little cold water until it looks like thin soup.
The times of fermentation following will obviously depend on the OG
Approximately seven days of fermentation transfer to a second FV and leave for another four days. Then add three sheets of gelatine disolved in hot water. The gelatine must be softened in cold water first and then drained before adding the hot water!
Three days later transfer to a to a third vessel and add the priming sugar. For an English Bitter use two grammes of white sugar per litre disolved in boiling water and stir gently into the beer to ensure even mixing.
Then bottle or keg. At the same time fill a 500ml PET bottle so that you you can check carbonation progress by squeezing it.
The resulting beer will pour crystal clear from the bottle even if you up-end it and will chill with no haze.
I think the addition of Brewbrite in the boiler is one big factor in this process.

Cheers Ian
I've just bought a BacBrewing Springer but not used it yet. The instructions say not to use Protofloc etc in boil because it will result in the Springer being blocked by "a gelatinous" film.
I assume this is not your experience.
Ian can probably give you a better answer specific to protofloc but be aware there is apparently a huge difference using a spring filter with hot versus chilled wort, ie if you are sending hot wort out of the tap to another vessel/chiller it works great but if you are chilling your wort first it will likely just clog. It is the main reason, after a fair bit of research on people using them in the real world, that I never got one (I use an immersion chiller and chill in the BM itself).
Wish I knew that before bought it!
Richard M
Cardiff

Dave.T
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Re: Brewbrite

Post by Dave.T » Mon May 23, 2022 10:42 pm

Hello, i came across this thread and wondered if it might help my bottling process. My usual brewday is to end up with around 16 gallons in the fermenter after using protofloc at the end of the boil. This will stay in there for around 5 day's or until the yeast crust drops.
I would then transfer to 3 smaller fermenters and airlock for about a week before kegging, at the kegging stage i choose how many to bottle.
The keg or kegs that i choose to bottle i don't prime and have not done for years, these will be left for a month or more.
The day before i decide to bottle i release the cap on the keg to make the bottling easier, even after this length of time conditioning and settling out there is no problem with clarity but after a month or more in the bottle they start to get a bit too lively.
The only time in the past that i have used gelatine are the couple of times iv'e forgotten to add the protofloc at the end of the boil, would i be better deciding which ones to bottle at the secondary stage and use gelatine to try and get more yeast to settle out.

Dave

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FUBAR
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Re: Brewbrite

Post by FUBAR » Tue May 24, 2022 12:02 am

IPA wrote:
Wed Apr 20, 2022 1:34 pm
Now that this thread has moved to here I will repeat how I produce remarkably bright beer. And yes although Brewbright contains irish moss (chondrus crispus) , a seaweed, to obtain the clarity that I outline you need to use all three finings. Brewbrite,Protofloc and gelatine. Please note that the gelatine is added to the SECOND FV not to the keg!!

Well for those who are interested this is how I do it.
For the record I brew with a Braumeister fitted with a BacBrewing Springer but the method will work with any all grain brewing equipment and I chill with a plate chiller fitted with a Blichmann Thrumometer

Have your water analysed. Neil (Wallybrew) on this forum provides any excellent service.
Adjust your water using Graham's water treatment calculator also on this forum.
Mash for 90 minutes
Boil for 90 minutes
For a brewlength of 23 litres. 15 minutes before the end of the boil add 1/2 of a crushed Protofloc tablet and 4 grammes of Brewbrite mixed with a little cold water until it looks like thin soup.
The times of fermentation following will obviously depend on the OG
Approximately seven days of fermentation transfer to a second FV and leave for another four days. Then add three sheets of gelatine disolved in hot water. The gelatine must be softened in cold water first and then drained before adding the hot water!
Three days later transfer to a to a third vessel and add the priming sugar. For an English Bitter use two grammes of white sugar per litre disolved in boiling water and stir gently into the beer to ensure even mixing.
Then bottle or keg. At the same time fill a 500ml PET bottle so that you you can check carbonation progress by squeezing it.
The resulting beer will pour crystal clear from the bottle even if you up-end it and will chill with no haze.
I think the addition of Brewbrite in the boiler is one big factor in this process.

Cheers Ian
Likewise , I mix the brewbrite with just enough water to resemble double cream . I brewed today and the shot glass sample I drew off of the CF chiller for pH & gravity checking had within 5 minutes dropped all of the break material resulting in a polished crystal clear wort , gelatine has the same effect post fermentation on any suspended yeast .
I buy my grain & hops from here http://www.homebrewkent.co.uk/


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IPA
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Re: Brewbrite

Post by IPA » Tue May 24, 2022 7:48 am

If you are using a Springer in my experience it is better to use a pump to transfer. If not you need at least a 75 cm drop into the FV otherwise the flow through the Springer will be slow. A best way if not using a pump is to have the 75 cm tube finishing above the expected volume in the FV. This means that the outlet on the boiler needs to be 60 cms above the top of the FV. This also ensures that the wort is well oxygenated before pitching.
"You're not drunk if you can lie on the floor without holding on." Dean Martin

1. Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well-preserved body, but rather to skid in sideways, thoroughly used, totally worn out and loudly proclaiming... "f*ck, what a trip

It's better to lose time with friends than to lose friends with time (Portuguese proverb)

Alone we travel faster
Together we travel further
( In an admonishing email from our golf club)

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