When I did my all grain I got a similar layer of brown stuff on the top of the wort (without smiley
) prior to the boil. I was surprised, and skimmed it off - was this the right thing to do, or should I have left it?
What's Brewing this weekend?
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bitter_dave
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Road Runner
I guess the brown scummy stuff that forms just before the boil starts, is small flour particles & proteins from the grain that are in suspension in the wort following the mash.
These particles seem to coagulate at the surface as the temp nears boiling point. I leave it were it is, as when the vigourous boil starts, it just gets absorbed in the boiling wort.
I don't know if it makes any difference or not if it's removed.
These particles seem to coagulate at the surface as the temp nears boiling point. I leave it were it is, as when the vigourous boil starts, it just gets absorbed in the boiling wort.
I don't know if it makes any difference or not if it's removed.
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BlightyBrewer
Those are excellent pictures RR.
Looks like you have almost the same set-up as me. What dia. spinny sparger do you have?
How did you transfer the wort to the boiler without spashing too much? One thing I am a little wary of is picking up that boiler using those handles with a full volume of wort inside. I'm just not convinced those handles would hold the weight.
Looks like you have almost the same set-up as me. What dia. spinny sparger do you have?
How did you transfer the wort to the boiler without spashing too much? One thing I am a little wary of is picking up that boiler using those handles with a full volume of wort inside. I'm just not convinced those handles would hold the weight.
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Road Runner
QUOTE (BlightyBrewer @ Apr 2 2006, 01:41 PM)Looks like you have almost the same set-up as me. What dia. spinny sparger do you have?
How did you transfer the wort to the boiler without spashing too much? One thing I am a little wary of is picking up that boiler using those handles with a full volume of wort inside. I'm just not convinced those handles would hold the weight.
I bought the spiny sparger a couple of weeks ago. I needed an 8 1/2 inch sparger to fit in the cool box tun, but my HBS only stocked the 10 inch one. So the guy let me have the 10 inch one for 8 1/2 inch price. I just trimmed off 1 1/2 inches so it would fit in the cool box.
As you see in the pic in above post, the wort is collected in plastic fermenting bucket at the bottom of 3 tiers. I then just jugged most of it back to the boiler at the top. Then when the plastic bucket was light enough to pick up, I just poored it into the boiler.
You don't need to worry about splashing & introducing air untill after the brew is fermenting. In fact it needs a good stir & agitation just prior to adding the yeast to areate the wort for the yeast to survive.
I leave the boiler on the kitchen work top all the time, don't actualy need to pick it up at all while it contains anything.
As BB knows, the Brupaks boiler has a 29 litre capacity. I did in fact retrieve about 30 litres after sparging, but boiled with about 27 litres in the boiler & added the rest in stages after some evapouration.
I had about 24 litres left after the boil, but had to add around 3 litres of water after cooling to achieve the correct OG.
How did you transfer the wort to the boiler without spashing too much? One thing I am a little wary of is picking up that boiler using those handles with a full volume of wort inside. I'm just not convinced those handles would hold the weight.
I bought the spiny sparger a couple of weeks ago. I needed an 8 1/2 inch sparger to fit in the cool box tun, but my HBS only stocked the 10 inch one. So the guy let me have the 10 inch one for 8 1/2 inch price. I just trimmed off 1 1/2 inches so it would fit in the cool box.
As you see in the pic in above post, the wort is collected in plastic fermenting bucket at the bottom of 3 tiers. I then just jugged most of it back to the boiler at the top. Then when the plastic bucket was light enough to pick up, I just poored it into the boiler.
You don't need to worry about splashing & introducing air untill after the brew is fermenting. In fact it needs a good stir & agitation just prior to adding the yeast to areate the wort for the yeast to survive.
I leave the boiler on the kitchen work top all the time, don't actualy need to pick it up at all while it contains anything.
As BB knows, the Brupaks boiler has a 29 litre capacity. I did in fact retrieve about 30 litres after sparging, but boiled with about 27 litres in the boiler & added the rest in stages after some evapouration.
I had about 24 litres left after the boil, but had to add around 3 litres of water after cooling to achieve the correct OG.
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Andy
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QUOTE (bitter_dave @ Apr 2 2006, 02:06 PM) Excellent photos
When I did my all grain I got a similar layer of brown stuff on the top of the wort (without smiley ) prior to the boil. I was surprised, and skimmed it off - was this the right thing to do, or should I have left it?
I always remove this stuff....
When I did my all grain I got a similar layer of brown stuff on the top of the wort (without smiley
) prior to the boil. I was surprised, and skimmed it off - was this the right thing to do, or should I have left it? I always remove this stuff....
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Andy
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QUOTE (Road Runner @ Apr 2 2006, 03:22 PM) You don't need to worry about splashing & introducing air untill after the brew is fermenting.
some might disagre with you there RR, hot side aeration and all that!
I collect my sparge output in batches and pour each one into the boiler which causes lots of air to get mixed in
Haven't noticed any ill effects so far though 
some might disagre with you there RR, hot side aeration and all that!
I collect my sparge output in batches and pour each one into the boiler which causes lots of air to get mixed in
Haven't noticed any ill effects so far though -
Road Runner
QUOTE (andy @ Apr 2 2006, 02:30 PM)some might disagre with you there RR, hot side aeration and all that!ÂÂ
Well, even if I don't introduce much air from the transfer to the boiler. I'm sure loads of air will be introduced from the wort falling a foot or so from the mash tun tap to the plastic collecting bucket :huh:
Well, even if I don't introduce much air from the transfer to the boiler. I'm sure loads of air will be introduced from the wort falling a foot or so from the mash tun tap to the plastic collecting bucket :huh:
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BlightyBrewer
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Road Runner
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Road Runner
My 80/- clone is nearing it's FG. It's at 1.013 now after only 2 days fermenting at around 20'c. FG should be 1.010 Starting Gravity was 1.042
As I think others of you on here do, I'm going to try secondary fermenting in a King Keg, before eventually transfering to a Cornie. I know you guys add finings when transfering to the secondary King Keg stage, but do you prime the keg also with spray malt at this stage?
I'm guessing you possibly don't if you then tansfer to a Corny when the beer is bright.
As I think others of you on here do, I'm going to try secondary fermenting in a King Keg, before eventually transfering to a Cornie. I know you guys add finings when transfering to the secondary King Keg stage, but do you prime the keg also with spray malt at this stage?
I'm guessing you possibly don't if you then tansfer to a Corny when the beer is bright.
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Road Runner
Thanks for that Andy. I'll try the same, but with spray malt.
Do you get much frothing when syphoning out of the KK into the Cornie after the beer has carbonated? Obviously I'll keep the end of the syphon below beer level to prevent splashing
Unfortunately I'll have to syphon also, as my KK's are Top Taps. I guess another idea would be to fit some Poly Tubing from the tap into the Corny & just drive the beer out under pressure, although this may foam also perhaps. :huh:
Also does anyone know the max volume of a KK. I'll have around 26 litres to fit into one. I think it should just about fit in. :huh:
Do you get much frothing when syphoning out of the KK into the Cornie after the beer has carbonated? Obviously I'll keep the end of the syphon below beer level to prevent splashing
Unfortunately I'll have to syphon also, as my KK's are Top Taps. I guess another idea would be to fit some Poly Tubing from the tap into the Corny & just drive the beer out under pressure, although this may foam also perhaps. :huh:
Also does anyone know the max volume of a KK. I'll have around 26 litres to fit into one. I think it should just about fit in. :huh:
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Road Runner
QUOTE (Daft as a Brush @ Apr 4 2006, 10:14 AM)I dont find it necessary to prime beer in a keg thats going to be force carbonated anyway, all it does is slow the clearing process and create more sediment.
This is why I was wondering if secondary fermenting in a KK really required priming.
Ok, now I've decided what to do with your help guys.
This afternoon I will transfer 26 litres or so into a KK with top tap. I won't be priming, but will be adding finings. I will add a shot of CO2 & also purge the O2 from the KK.
After the beer has conditioned & cleared, I will transfer as much as I can fit, into a Corny. The remainder in the KK I will either bottle, or more likely, then prime the KK and tap it from there.
Or, if I get thirsty while waiting for it to condition (which is a possibility), I'll just drink the first few litres from the KK and call these the Quality Control litres. Then transfer the remainder to the Corny. Actually, the later sounds a better idea, as there'll be less exposure to air avoiding unecessary oportunity for oxidation.
This is why I was wondering if secondary fermenting in a KK really required priming.
Ok, now I've decided what to do with your help guys.
This afternoon I will transfer 26 litres or so into a KK with top tap. I won't be priming, but will be adding finings. I will add a shot of CO2 & also purge the O2 from the KK.
After the beer has conditioned & cleared, I will transfer as much as I can fit, into a Corny. The remainder in the KK I will either bottle, or more likely, then prime the KK and tap it from there.
Or, if I get thirsty while waiting for it to condition (which is a possibility), I'll just drink the first few litres from the KK and call these the Quality Control litres. Then transfer the remainder to the Corny. Actually, the later sounds a better idea, as there'll be less exposure to air avoiding unecessary oportunity for oxidation.
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Road Runner
KK is now full of secondary fermenting 80/- clone.
I almost mannaged to squeeze it all in. I had about 1 litre that wouldn't quite fit. I filled the KK to just about the bottom of the filler neck. Purged out the tiny bit of O2, so hardly any head space for oxidizing any way.
Now I play the waiting game untill it's ready.
I almost mannaged to squeeze it all in. I had about 1 litre that wouldn't quite fit. I filled the KK to just about the bottom of the filler neck. Purged out the tiny bit of O2, so hardly any head space for oxidizing any way.
Now I play the waiting game untill it's ready.