sparging

[fizzypop boy]

I'm sure theres going to be a few different answers to this but here goes.When sparging what sort of set up is needed / preferred.Do you need two boilers one for the sparge water and one to collect the wort,as i understand the wort shouldn't be allowed to cool.Or do you use one boiler to heat the sparge water then tip this into a fv and lift it up high enough to be able to run into the tun,which i would think is a bit dodgy ,and then use the boiler to collect the wort?If the latter is used how do you maintain the temp in the fv while sparging.

Keeping things simple...this weekend having ago at making turbo cider!

[tribs]

I now have two boilers but previously I found it easiest to collect the runnings in a Fermenting bucket which I transferred back to my boiler after the sparge (I think this is DaaB's preferred method). That way your handling cooler wort rather than boiling hot sparge water.

I have a feeling that some of the larger/heavier particles from the runoff settled in this vessel meaning a clearer wort in the boiler too.

I decided I needed a new boiler, however, because my first boiler was only 20L which I found wasn't really large enough for a full wort boil. If it were larger I probably would not have bought a second one and continued using the method described.

[fizzypop boy]

Thanks Daab&Trib for your enlightening advice,i think i'll probably follow your route of collecting in a fv and transfer to boiler,just one question though ,don't you have to worry about the wort cooling while collecting it ,as i understand it takes about half an hour to collect(depending on individual set up)?

[tribs]

QUOTE don't you have to worry about the wort cooling while collecting it
I've not heard that. Its never bothered me. Once, I overran my mash and had a dinner invite with friends. I left the hot wort in the FV for a few hours before I got back and proceeded with the boil. There were no problems and the final beer was excellent as usual .

[Andy]

fizzy - such a large body of liquid will take some time (hours) to cool down, you could even wrap an old blanket/sleeping bag etc around the collection vessel for additional insulation but probably unnecessary.

[Bigster]

FB
I too had the same thoughts originally.
Have settled on the sparge from boiler to FV. Will try it for the first time in anger this weekend.

Good luck with your turbo cider.

[fizzypop boy]

Well thats me truly sorted with my dilemma,just waiting now to pitch my yeast then happy turbo cider days here i come.
Just got to find my safety harness.

[Horden Hillbilly]

When I first started all grain brewing, all the books I read and my LHBS told me to switch my boiler on as soon as the heating element is covered by the wort to prevent further saccrification (further conversion of sugars) of the wort.

I have a similiar set up to Jim and yes, I do lift my hot sparge water in a FV to its required height. I think the comment by daab regarding transferring hot sparge water to a pressure barrel rather than a FV is an excellent idea, why did I not think of it myself! I have 2 budget barrels with 2" screw caps which I only use for conditioning, they are standing empty most of the time, I am brewing this weekend and may give it a try.

[FlippinMental]

QUOTE (Horden Hillbilly @ May 12 2006, 06:30 PM)

I think the comment by daab regarding transferring hot sparge water to a pressure barrel rather than a FV is an excellent idea, why did I not think of it myself!
ditto that HH. having just started AG its already come apparent that budget barrels can prove a very useful aid in the brewing process.

[Pete]

Hi, I am new to grain brewing (well, will be this weekend when I try it for the first time) and have a question on sparging.

I have two bins and a boiler, all 25 litre. If I mash with 25 litres of water, how much water can I then add during sparging? If I use that much water during mashing surely I will have no room for the liquid I need to add during sparging.

Am I missing something?

Sorry for the very beginners basic question.

Regards

Pete

[steve_flack]

When I first started all grain brewing, all the books I read and my LHBS told me to switch my boiler on as soon as the heating element is covered by the wort to prevent further saccrification (further conversion of sugars) of the wort.

There is the possibility of scorching doing this as the first runnings are the strongest. Having said that, I pretty much turn the element on once it's covered too.

[eskimobob]

Edit: Oops - sorry DaaB, didn't see your post on the second page - EB opens eyes

I have two bins and a boiler, all 25 litre. If I mash with 25 litres of water, how much water can I then add during sparging? If I use that much water during mashing surely I will have no room for the liquid I need to add during sparging.

Hi Pete, glad you are giving it a go.
As someone once said; The only stupid questions are those that are not asked.

You are not likely to be mashing with 25 litres of water. The common ration for mash is 2.5 litres per kg of grist (grain etc). So if you are mashing say 4kg of grain then you need 10 litres of water in the tun.

You can sparge with the rest of the water. Strictly speaking you are supposed to sparge only until the runnings have reached about 1008 gravity but I never actually measure this myself.

If your recipe is for a 25 litre brew then you probably need a bit more water though as you will lose some in dead space in the mast tun and copper (boiler). You will also lose some in the copper due to evaporation during the boil. You might therefore need to start with more like 29 litres of water. If you find that you can't fit it all in your boiler then keep it nearby to top-up during the boil.

Hope this helps.

[Pete]

Thank you very much guys, fingers crossed for the weekend!

Cheers

Pete

[NzDan1]

I have heard of people mashing and sparging one day, then boiling the next day or the day after to save time and they still made good beer.

What is the reason to stop sachirifation during sparging and after sparging, what is wrong with more conversion? arent we trying to get as much sugars out as we can?

[PieOPah]

What is the reason to stop sachirifation during sparging and after sparging, what is wrong with more conversion? arent we trying to get as much sugars out as we can?

I may be wrong, but I assume the reason is to stop the sugars converting rather than extracting them from the grain. The sugars will likely be converting to unfermentables.

This is just a guess based on what I have read in this thread!