Cole Porter - 211108

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adm

Cole Porter - 211108

Post by adm » Fri Nov 21, 2008 11:09 pm

Today, I thought I'd try out my new brewery layout with a nice porter. This is based on Spearmint Wino's Gail Porter, but with a few changes. In keeping with the famous Porters theme, I give you....Cole Porter.

Recipe

Grain:
5Kg Maris Otter
500g Chocolate Malt
250g Black Malt
150g Roasted Barley

Hops:
60g Goldings 90 min
20g Goldings 15 min
10g Goldings 80C steep

Yeast
Wyeast 1028 London Ale

23l, target OG 1053

I added the roast barley to the Gail Porter recipe last time I did it and I love the flavour. I think the 150g is about right to get the taste but without it taking too long to mellow down enough to be gluggable. Hops are all Goldings 'cos I have about a half kilo to use up, and the yeast is 1028 London Ale because I had it in and fancied a go with it. This was one of the Wyeast "Activator" direct pitch packs, and I didn't make a starter because I only decided to use it today. It says it's for pitching direct to 5 gals, so we'll see what happens.

Other new stuff for this brew is that this is the first time I've treated my water, it's the first time I've used a 3 tier gravity system and it's the first time I've used my new shiny kettle and Bullfinch burner to boil in. Lots of new stuff - probably too much really.

For the water treatment, I used Graham's superb calculator and treated the entire 50l in the HLT with CRS to bring it down to a residual alkalinity of 20 mg/l CaCO3, then selected "Porter" as the target water profile and then adjusted the water quantity to the total amount of water than would go through the mash tun and into the boiler - in this case 37 litres and let the calculator work out how much and what to add.

It said: 1.37g of calcium sulphate, 4g of Calcium Chloride and 11.3g of salt. For the salt, I used Saxa. I wanted to use "good" sea salt, but wasn't sure about whether the additional minerals would be a problem. I put about 40% of the dry salts into the mash, and the rest into the boil. I'm not sure if I should actually have calculated the salts for the final brew length (23l, or the full volume of water I would use to mash and boil (37l). The more I think about it, the more I think I did it wrong....but it's too late now.

I also added a crushed camden tablet to the HLT.

So -let's cut to the chase.......here's the brew porn:

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Grain bill. Really must have the Mrs. clean the windows in the garage.....

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Liquor salts for the mash. Somehow, it just feels wrong putting table salt in my beer.....we'll see how it turns out.

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Mashed in. Game on!

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Pretty close to my target temp of 67C. This is the first time I have been able to fill the tun by gravity, and it is so much easier than jugging water into the HLT, then out again. This alone must have saved me at least half an hour today. On the downside, I don't yet have a (normal, tea type) kettle in the garage, so I didn't preheat the mash tun. I just filled it when the HLT was at 80C and it settled nicely at 74C, so I mashed in and ended up with 67.4, which was great.

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Mash pH. Looks to be pretty much smack on 5.2 to me, but I'm a bit colour blind, so what do I know....

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This is reusing the hop strainer from my H&G boiler (which is now my HLT, so doesn't need it anymore). I've got a nice stainless replacement on order, but it hasn't arrived yet, so it's a case of make do and mend.

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Hops ready to go. I was going to use S-04 originally, but switched horses to the Wyeast at the last moment.

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First runnings into the boiler. Another big difference today was being able to sparge straight into the boiler and get that heating up straight away. It's made life much easier than sparging into buckets, emptying the HLT/Boiler and then pouring the wort back into it. Less lifting and probably saves me another half hour. All good so far.....

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Bullfinch burner going full tilt. You can't see quite how powerful this thing is, but the bit of red glowing metal is a hefty chunk of iron! This burner puts out 12kW, or more if you jack up the pressure. It sounds like a fighter plane. I'm impressed. No rolling boil photos as there was too much steam. The wort was almost boiling by the time i had run off the first batch sparge.

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Chiller in. The dedicated connection works well - although I guess I can trim the hose tails now. This chiller will get replaced by a plate chiller as soon as that arrives. Then in the hot months, I might use the IC in an ice bath to prechill the cooling water. Mrs. DM needs to clean this wondow as well!

I seem to have accidentally deleted the pic of the pre-boil gravity reading. It was 1044, which was exactly what i wanted.

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Running off into FV

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Post boil gravity - 1062. Ooops.....looks like I boiled off too much. I collected 19l at 1062 instead of 23l at 1053. This is the very first wort out of the kettle - hence the break material in it. I took the next 4l and poured them back in and after that it was about as clear as you can get for black!

So..... I remember reading here that you can multiple the number of litres by the gravity to get a total number of "sugar points". In this case, 19 x 62 =1178. Then, divide that by the target volume and you'll get the OG if you dilute to that volume.....in this case, 1178 / 23 = 53.6. Sounds right...so I added 4 litres of preboiled, colled water and.....

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Bingo! 1053/1054. Phew. Thought I'd [censored] up there, but it looks like I fixed it. I'm going to have to learn to either add more water to compensate for the burner power, or turn it down a bit! It gets an impressive rolling boil though.

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Here's the trub at the bottom of the kettle. This drained out really nicely and left less wort behind than the old H&G boiler.

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And finally, wort aerated, yeast pitched, ready to put it to bed!

Anyway.. that all went fairly smoothly apart from the overboiling issue. One thing I have a problem with now though is that I have no way of telling how much wort is going into the boiler now. With the H&G one, I could see the level and I had marked the side to show the different volumes. So how do you guys with shiny kettles know how much wort is in there (and I don't want to put a sight tube in the kettle)? Just a dip stick or something??

This was also my quickest brew day ever. I'd have been wrapped up well inside 5 hours if I hadn't had to deal with the dilution issue, and take the family out for a curry....

All in all, the new brewery layout works well and will only get better and easier as get it dialed in and learn the quirks.

Damfoose

Re: Cole Porter - 211108

Post by Damfoose » Fri Nov 21, 2008 11:24 pm

Looks like a great brewday was had their. I do hope it tastes as good as it looks.

Whorst

Re: Cole Porter - 211108

Post by Whorst » Sat Nov 22, 2008 1:02 am

We have the same kettle!!!

adm

Re: Cole Porter - 211108

Post by adm » Sat Nov 22, 2008 9:13 am

Whorst wrote:We have the same kettle!!!
I got mine from MoreBeer when I was in the US last month. I hand carried it back - got a few funny looks from BA staff.

This is the first time I've used it - but I'm impressed with the quality - and luckily, US 1/2" and UK 1/2" fittings are more or less compatible.

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ECR
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Re: Cole Porter - 211108

Post by ECR » Sat Nov 22, 2008 9:52 am

That looks great 8)

There's something more than usually satisfying about producing dark beers.

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Horden Hillbilly
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Re: Cole Porter - 211108

Post by Horden Hillbilly » Sat Nov 22, 2008 10:47 am

Looks great adm, nice one! 8)

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Garth
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Re: Cole Porter - 211108

Post by Garth » Sat Nov 22, 2008 11:11 am

good looking brewday there adm, I love a good porter

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edit1now
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Re: Cole Porter - 211108

Post by edit1now » Sat Nov 22, 2008 1:05 pm

New brewhouse, new kit, good batch of porter....enjoy =D>

booldawg

Re: Cole Porter - 211108

Post by booldawg » Sat Nov 22, 2008 4:23 pm

Glad the new kit is working well, looks like a lovely warming pint for the cold months 8)

adm

Re: Cole Porter - 211108

Post by adm » Mon Nov 24, 2008 10:55 am

24 hours after pitching, there was no activity at all on this beer, so I repitched it with S04 and now it's bubbling away nicely with a lovely thick krausen forming.

I'm not sure if it's the SO4 only or whether the London yeast finaly woke up. I guess I'll never know now anyway!

Note to self: Make starters for all liquid yeasts. Even if they say not to.

adm

Re: Cole Porter - 211108

Post by adm » Fri Dec 12, 2008 9:34 pm

Well now...

This beer had a few problems along the way with the fermentation. Got stuck at 1022 and I ended up adding some dry beer enzyme to it which took it down to 1007. I was worried that the DBE would affect the taste badly, but I've cracked it open tonight - 3 weeks after brewing to see how it tastes and it's pretty damn good! I think I'll keep it on tap.

It's still got quite an assertive roasted character to it, but as it's only 3 weeks old, that's to be expected really. What's more, I like quite a bit of roast in a porter. Other than that, it's got a faint liquorice bite to it in the aftertaste. Really rather nice....

This was the first beer that i treated my water for, and I think I can taste the difference. It seems to be smoother overall, and although I liked my beers before, I believe that thinking back, they must have had a definite alkaline twang. It's subtle though...although I think it's a definite improvement. It's difficult to tell with a young beer, but I think the beer almost smells a bit sweeter - although this is a very dry porter. Certainly my water smells sweeter after treatment with CRS and sodium met.

Anyway....I was worried that this one would be a washout, but it seems there was no reason.

The good thing about AG brewing is that as long as you have no fundamental hygiene problems or major flaws, most beers seem to come good anyway!

Relax, don't worry and have a homebrew!

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