My plan was to make an Imperial Russian Stout. I thought b****r it I'll just go for it and see what happens. I should maybe have listened to the good angel on my shoulder rather than the wee devil on the other one as my ambition met the brick wall of my capabilities and a head on collision resulted.
Here's the recipe - changed from the Beersmith one to match my ingredients.
Brewer: Gerry Thompson
Style: Russian Imperial Stout
TYPE: All Grain
Recipe Specifications
--------------------------
Batch Size: 25.00 L
Boil Size: 30.11 L
Estimated OG: 1.110 SG
Estimated Color: 161.2 EBC
Estimated IBU: 79.1 IBU
Brewhouse Efficiency: 72.00 % (aye right!)
Boil Time: 90 Minutes
Ingredients:
------------
Amount Item Type % or IBU
9.25 kg Pale Malt, Maris Otter (5.9 EBC) Grain 72.83 %
0.75 kg Carafa III (1034.3 EBC) Grain 5.91 %
0.75 kg Caramel/Crystal Malt - 60L (118.2 EBC) Grain 5.91 %
0.50 kg Amber Malt (43.3 EBC) Grain 3.94 %
0.50 kg Chocolate Malt (689.5 EBC) Grain 3.94 %
0.50 kg Roasted Barley (591.0 EBC) Grain 3.94 %
0.45 kg Black (Patent) Malt (985.0 EBC) Grain 3.54 %
80.00 gm cascade08 [8.00 %] (90 min) Hops 43.6 IBU
50.00 gm Challenger [6.00 %] (30 min) Hops 14.7 IBU
50.00 gm Goldings, East Kent [5.00 %] (30 min) Hops 12.2 IBU
50.00 gm Fuggles [4.50 %] (20 min) Hops 8.7 IBU
1 Pkgs Scottish Ale (Wyeast Labs #1728) Yeast-Ale
First thing I didn't take into account was just how much grain this actually is. I have a big shiny mash tun (70l) and it was about two thirds full by the time all the grain was in. This was where it started to go wrong. I had already added the mash water in the amount specified by Beersmith at around 80C to heat the tun up. By the time I got all the mash water in the temp had gone down to 69C


Left the mash on and the tun kept its temperature very well. Had a bacon sarnie and a rest before returning to battle. Next big problem was I turned the tap on the tun on and "drip drip drip" was all that happened. Temper really beginning to fray now

Gravity (not sure if this is still called OG at this point in the process) was 1075 before the boil and I was doing a 90 minute boil so I was expecting that to go up. This part of the proceedings went ok apart from a minor boil over just at the start as I had the lid on to get it to the boil quickly. Plugged both 3kw elements in to get it to the boil and didn't fry the house's electrics - which was nice.
The immersion chiller also worked a treat and soon after I was ready to run the wort into to the FV. Which is where the biggest of my problems started.
The hop strainer which had been supplied with the boiler was a slotted copper pipe and I thought nothing of it. But as soon as I opened the tap I could see I had big trouble. Barely a drop was coming out. Since Sunday I've been madly surfing this and other forums and I now know the design of the strainer is the problem and it was always going to get blocked. Planning to make a hop taco/hopstopper for AG2 (yes there is going to be a second AG brew even after this!).
But on Sunday I had to find a way to get the wort out of the boiler. I ended up having to reach in with my very unsterile arm to clear the hops repeatedly to allow the wort to flow through a sieve and into the FV. Much splashing of tar like wort all over the kitchen floor was the result plus 21 litres of the stuff into the FV.
Gravity of the wort before pitching my yeast starter was 1095 rather than the 1100 i was aiming for. It seems to be fermenting ok (after 2 days) and I haven't opened the FV yet to check to see if it's an infected mess. Even if it is I've learned a lot from the process.
I know it's really my own fault for trying something so challenging to start with but I thought it'd be ok. But for a stuck mash and a dodgy hop filter everything might have been ok.
Sorry for the lack of pictures - they'd all have been of a very red faced bloke surrounded by blue air anyway! If anyone has any advice or suggestions for me to improve for AG2 I'd be really grateful to have them.
Cheers
Gerry