Home Brew Forum

Not actaully true but first since the millenium. LOL.

Here's my birthday present ready to go....



Ingredients all weighted up and ready to go.



Recipe is an old one of my mates.... and goes something like this.

Brew
4300kg Pale Malt, Marris Otter
350g Crystal Malt
150g Flaker Barley
13L Mash liquor

Hot Liquor temp: 70ºC
Mash temp: 66ºC -(Actually started higher but then setteld to about 64-66)
Mash time: 90 mins

Boil time: 90 mins

Hops :
Prehop boiler with 4g and 3g of the below.
30g Fuggles at start of boil
30g Early Gold at start od boil
10g Early Gold at 15 mins before end of boil
Irish Moss last 15 mins of boil


Aiming for OG 1044 and 25 Litres

Yeast: Sarfale 04


Went a bit worng as new kit always does... boiler was very powerful and got lovely rolling boil ended up with less tahtn tweenty litres near 1058. So made up to 20 litres and was down to about 1046.

I hope that isn't a problem.

Took some wort our before hand and with some nutrient rehydrated it... was going great guns this morning.

Not sure I sparged correctly jsut kep measuring it until is was under 1010. But didn't adjsut for temperature.... till it states like weak tea with just a hint of sugar.


In tend to rack off into a pressure barrel with some gelatin.... By receip says add campden tablets...

Question i want to know is.

1) Should I have topped up with water ? How do I know how much I need in future to get to teh correct OG ?
2) when should I rack for Secondary ?
3) Do I need to add campden tablets ?

1. Topping up with water is OK. However, you should now know how much you lose to evaporation so you'll be able to add into the equation in future. If you didn't record measurements you can do another test boil with water for 30 mins then double/triple according to your boiling schedule. Also, you'll need to take loss to hops and trub into account.

Getting the correct/target OG depends on your efficiency.

2. Secondary isn't necessary really. A lot of brewers leave their beer in primary for 10 days - 2 weeks, rack to a bottling bucket and bottle. I, on the other hand, ferment in primary for 2 weeks (even though fermentation finished probably 5+ days before) then rack into a secondary vessel for a further 2 weeks to settle out and age. I then rack to a bottling bucket and bottle an already almost crystal clear beer. Most people would find this to be a pain in the ass but I don't mind as these days my beers are some of the best beers I've ever had.

3. Don't add campden tablets now unless you want to kill the yeast off for some reason... I think anyway! Maybe someone else can jump in here if I'm mistaken.

Cool.

Will probabaly leave for 2 weeks and then put in a pressure barrel then.

It said in my receip to add campdens when you add it to the pressure barrel ?

I had a quick sniff last night lovely hoppy, malty, bubble gummy (?) smell....

floydmeddler wrote:...ferment in primary for 2 weeks (even though fermentation finished probably 5+ days before) then rack into a secondary vessel for a further 2 weeks to settle out and age. I then rack to a bottling bucket and bottle an already almost crystal clear beer...

Floyd - do you re-pitch some more yeast before bottling when you do this or do you find that there is enough still around to sufficiently carbonate?

CrownCap wrote:Floyd - do you re-pitch some more yeast before bottling when you do this or do you find that there is enough still around to sufficiently carbonate?

In my experience there is always enough yeast no matter how clear the beer looks. Given sufficient time and avaliable sugars it'll still carbonate.

I wouldn't add campden tablets at all, I only use them for stopping wines or water treatment before brewing.

DrewBrews wrote:

CrownCap wrote:Floyd - do you re-pitch some more yeast before bottling when you do this or do you find that there is enough still around to sufficiently carbonate?

In my experience there is always enough yeast no matter how clear the beer looks. Given sufficient time and avaliable sugars it'll still carbonate.

Yep, still carbonates with no probs.

good stuff, did you buy or make the stand yourself ?

I love that little orange bowl in the centre. That's exactly the same expression I have on my face when I open a bag of hops and take a big sniff!

No campden tablets....

Finally how to I calcualte how much priming sugar by the litre

This little beauty:

http://hbd.org/cgi-bin/recipator/recipa ... ation.html

I usually go for 1.5 volumes. Gives me a tiny amount of carbonation, just enough to create a fluffy head providing I've used head aiding malt in the grain bill which I always do. It's as close to cask styled pints as I can get with bottles if you know what I mean.

@Floyd and Drew - Cheers for that, I probably bottle with far to much yeast still around for fear of ending up with a completely flat bottle.

The frame and all teh boilers came together.....

I was goign to upgrade and then my wife and apretns all got together to get me it and (more importantly) move all my brewing gear inot the garage.

My father in law is running water to it and my dad jsut dropped me off a small chest fridge from freecycle (and a little thermostatic controller box) to build a fermenting cabinet.

I think theya re trying to tell me something ?

Just had a pre racking test for gravity and firgure might as well drink my test sample.....

Man was I surprised. It's lush... a bit more bitter thatn I was expecting....but definitely ale....

Even my mate was shooked how nice it tasted....

Now jsut have to rack it and wait see what i tastes like in another couple of weeks.

Could be the longest 2 weeks of my life...

Will the bitterness reduce or do I need to adjsut my recipe.

It should mellow considerably. Take a gill every couple of days and see for yourself.