My wheat beer stint continues with this one. The 4th outing from that one pack of Wyeast Bavarian Hefe yeast I bought back in the spring.
Unfortunately I wasn't able to follow everyone's advice for a dunkelweizen recipe that I posted last week. I wasn't able to got hold of any Carafa malt or Hallertau hops, so I had to settle for this improvised concoction:
2.27kg Wheat Malt
2.04 kg Munich Malt (10L)
0.18kg Crystall Malt (60L)
0.05kg Black Patent Malt (?L)
42g Perle Hops (7.2%AA) @ 60mins
14g Perle Hops (7.2%AA) @ 20 mins
Wyeast 3638 Bavarian Hefe Yeast
Mash at 150degF for 75mins
Not sure what the final volume will end up being. I'll be experimenting with topping up during the boil and possibly in the FV to boost my output above the usual 11L. The SG will be what it will be.
Currently half way through the mash. I've got the digital camera out so pictures should be coming soon.
Brewday - 01/09/07 - Dark wheat ale
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PGSteamer
Cheers Delboy, it went alright.
I tried using 2 pots to boil on the stove top and ended up with around 13L at a gravity of 1.060. Which is good as I can easily top up with water to make it a larger batch at a more manageable strength.
Here's the piccies:
The very first run off into my vorlauf jug. Turned clear very quickly.
Batch sparging into the brew kettle
I was very pleased with the colour and clarity of the run off
First hop addition during the boil
Double boil action
Gravity reading. After cooling the wort was very clear, but pouring it to the FV stirred up all the break material. I'm thinking of drilling a hole in my brew kettle and attaching a tap and hop filter to keep out the break material.
I tried using 2 pots to boil on the stove top and ended up with around 13L at a gravity of 1.060. Which is good as I can easily top up with water to make it a larger batch at a more manageable strength.
Here's the piccies:
The very first run off into my vorlauf jug. Turned clear very quickly.
Batch sparging into the brew kettle
I was very pleased with the colour and clarity of the run off
First hop addition during the boil
Double boil action
Gravity reading. After cooling the wort was very clear, but pouring it to the FV stirred up all the break material. I'm thinking of drilling a hole in my brew kettle and attaching a tap and hop filter to keep out the break material.
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spearmint-wino
- CBA prizewinner 2007
- Posts: 1039
- Joined: Sat Mar 10, 2007 9:08 am
- Location: Nunhead, Sarf Lahndun
Is that a nifty scale I see etched up the outside of that shiny?
drinking: ~ | conditioning: ~ | primary: ~ | Looks like I need to get brewing then...
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J_P
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PGSteamer
12 hours after pitching. Needs some skimming.
That is a nifty scale on the side of the shiny. It's not very accurate but gives a good general guide to the volume.
My mash/lauter tun has a stainless steel braid at the bottom to act as a filter.
They're used in household plumbing here to cover the rubber hosing supplying water to a sink or toilet.
I did cut some holes on one side of a vinyl tube and insert that into the braid. It provides some support to stop the braid getting squashed shut and also acts as a little siphon to reduce the dead space in the tun. The run off now clears super fast but the drawback is that it takes an age to drain the tun. I need to tinker with it some more
That is a nifty scale on the side of the shiny. It's not very accurate but gives a good general guide to the volume.
My mash/lauter tun has a stainless steel braid at the bottom to act as a filter.
They're used in household plumbing here to cover the rubber hosing supplying water to a sink or toilet.
I did cut some holes on one side of a vinyl tube and insert that into the braid. It provides some support to stop the braid getting squashed shut and also acts as a little siphon to reduce the dead space in the tun. The run off now clears super fast but the drawback is that it takes an age to drain the tun. I need to tinker with it some more
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PGSteamer
Yeah, all the SS braids I looked at appeared to use the same gauge and weave in the wire - the only variation was in the length of the braid.
I've only ever used the SS braid, so it's hard for me to compare them to a false bottom or copper manifold. They are pretty flimsy and can flap about when stirring the mash. Also I'm not sure how suitable they are for fly sparging since, at least in my setup, they have a small drain off area.
However they are very easy and cheap to make and do clear the run off quickly. The braid works for me, so I'm happy with it
Btw, JP, my hunch is that the black patent malt helps to produce the clear run off.
I've only ever used the SS braid, so it's hard for me to compare them to a false bottom or copper manifold. They are pretty flimsy and can flap about when stirring the mash. Also I'm not sure how suitable they are for fly sparging since, at least in my setup, they have a small drain off area.
However they are very easy and cheap to make and do clear the run off quickly. The braid works for me, so I'm happy with it
Btw, JP, my hunch is that the black patent malt helps to produce the clear run off.
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Seadart
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Seadart
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Vossy1
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PGSteamer
Seadart, I think you're right 
I have inserted a vinyl tube with holes cut down the side into the braid and used it for my past 2 beers It gives a clear run off after 1-2L of vorlauf and hasn't seen any stuck sparges with wheat rich mashes.
I've found the drawback with this though is that the flow rate is very slow. It takes an age to drain off the tun. But this can probably be fixed by enlarging / adding more holes to the tubing.
I have inserted a vinyl tube with holes cut down the side into the braid and used it for my past 2 beers
It gives a clear run off after 1-2L of vorlauf and hasn't seen any stuck sparges with wheat rich mashes.I've found the drawback with this though is that the flow rate is very slow. It takes an age to drain off the tun. But this can probably be fixed by enlarging / adding more holes to the tubing.