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What is the best way to clean the elements in mash kettles?

Clean in place (CIP) failed for me. I am back to TFR and stainless scrubby.

Is there a better way?

I tend to just put some water straight from the hot tap (40-45C) and then add a PBW type cleaner and turn the element on for a few minutes.

It only needs wiping off after, plus I then have hot cleaning solution for the rest of my kit.

MashBag wrote: ↑

Fri Oct 15, 2021 7:03 am

What is the best way to clean the elements in mash kettles?

Element in a mash kettle?! What's a mash kettle?

Guy

Some systems have a vessel that is used for mashing which has an element in them. The element is used to maintain the temp during mash but because it is in the sugary, grainy wort for some time, they can get particularly gunked up.

Google has some good images if you search "mash kettle". Normally shiney and for sale

Jocky wrote: ↑

Sun Oct 17, 2021 10:02 am

I tend to just put some water straight from the hot tap (40-45C) and then add a PBW type cleaner and turn the element on for a few minutes.

It only needs wiping off after, plus I then have hot cleaning solution for the rest of my kit.

I never got any pleasure out PBW. Soaking or CIP. What dose PBW to water do you use?
Can to the conclusion a proper furry element was more than it could handle.

MashBag wrote: ↑

Mon Oct 18, 2021 6:01 am

The element is used to maintain the temp during mash but because it is in the sugary, grainy wort for some time, they can get particularly gunked up.

Right, thanks MB. I've never bothered checking the temperature of the wort as it comes out of my mash tun. The mash itself is usually at 64-65°C after 90 minutes and I just sparge the grain and run the wort into the boiler until I have the volume I want.

Next brewday I'll try to remember to check it.

Guy

Just different machines. Grain father type one pot systems (klarstein, BM's etc) circulate the wort through the grain bed and over the heating elements during mash. Good for temp control, but it does make a proper mess on the element.

I use Citric Acid made up in a spray bottle.
It dissolves the protein gunk on the elements nicely, just requires a wipe down.

billygoat wrote: ↑

Mon Nov 22, 2021 11:22 pm

I use Citric Acid made up in a spray bottle.
It dissolves the protein gunk on the elements nicely, just requires a wipe down.

Interesting. Do you mind if I ask if your water is treated for brewing? I ask because I haven't found acid to remove protein, but it will limescale.

Water with excess alkalinity for the style being brewed will result in limescale being deposited on electrical heating elements, which is difficult to remove. Measuring alkalinity and if necessary, reducing that to suit the style of beer being brewed eliminates limescale allowing protein deposits to be removed using a wet soft cloth.

That is interesting Eric. I have very hard water. Its not a problem for the beer (IPA), but the element REALLY gets a good coating of crud.

Soft and furry on the outside, almost baked on at the element surface.

MashBag wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 23, 2021 8:09 am

That is interesting Eric. I have very hard water. Its not a problem for the beer (IPA), but the element REALLY gets a good coating of crud.

Soft and furry on the outside, almost baked on at the element surface.

The same here, water is 269 CaCO3

Eric wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 23, 2021 12:08 am

Water with excess alkalinity for the style being brewed will result in limescale being deposited on electrical heating elements, which is difficult to remove. Measuring alkalinity and if necessary, reducing that to suit the style of beer being brewed eliminates limescale allowing protein deposits to be removed using a wet soft cloth.

Absolutely, Eric.

My tap water is about 200ppm alkalinity. It's reduced to about 20ppm for most of my brews, sometimes a bit higher for a dark ale. At the end of a brewday the kettle elements wipe clean really easily.

Guy

Thanks Eric this has got me thinking.
I overnight mash, so have time to spare, I could easily add an acid rest (I know it is not as effective with modern malts) to see if this makes a difference.

The water where l live is extremely soft, no hardness at all.
No treatment needed except adding brewing salts.

billygoat wrote: ↑

Tue Nov 23, 2021 9:50 am

The water where l live is extremely soft, no hardness at all.
No treatment needed except adding brewing salts.

Interesting again. So if your water has no limescale to deposit, why would citric acid be effective?

Mashbag, an acid rest will do nothing to limescale on elements. It is a stage in brewing with soft water to lower pH before sacrification.

IPA doesn't benefit from being brewed with highly alkaline water unless you desire a thrill of hairs on the back of your neck rising, mouth puckering and projecting eyes from the resulting astringency. I know some American Hop enthusiasts find it adds some extra to their taste bud destroying beers, but it does eliminate the subtilty of an IPA perfectly hopped with Goldings.