Carbonation Pressure/Temperature Chart

[PeeBee]

I never leave the gas on either. But in case there are folk who don't care if their gas flitters away; if there is a leak in the beer dispense system the gas cylinder will keep topping the keg up (assuming regulator attached) until the keg is empty of beer!

Is that a bit scarier?

[Kev888]

I agree that theres no need to leave the gas on normally, and topping up frequently/manually can work well to force carbonate. Obviously, budget and availability to homebrewers often dictates less than perfect answers for many of us, or we may just have different priorities, so if a system is prone to leaks then this approach would be well worth considering.

But to raise another perspective, a system doesn't have to be prone to leaks 'if' it has been designed and constructed as such. So if people struggle to be around for topping up during force carbonation, or just don't want the hassle of leaks or contingencies to avoid them, then it isn't a given that leaving the gas on must inherently carry unreasonable risk of its loss.

For example, the chances are very small with a simple sankey keg and coupler in decent condition, I would happily leave that set up pressurised for force carbonating. Whereas a complex system with multiple joins and kegs and/or old corny kegs below their ideal pressure intrinsically carries greater risk, so I would not leave the gas on in that instance.

[f00b4r]

The Buffalo leak detector stuff is really good. Also I think a lot of leaks are caused by people putting shear pressure on their JG fitted lines, the system can test fine but then the person shoves everything in tight and shuts the door of the fridge, putting sideways pressure on the joints and causing leaks.

[PeeBee]

... Also I think a lot of leaks are caused by people putting shear pressure on their JG fitted lines, the system can test fine but then the person shoves everything in tight and shuts the door of the fridge, putting sideways pressure on the joints and causing leaks.

Certainly not wrong! I got rid of most of my JG fittings and replaced them with "finger-tight" pneumatic fittings. They don't leak when applying a bit of sideways (shear) pressure (or just about any sort of twist, push or pull) ... and they are cheaper than JG, made of metal, less bulky, etc. etc. Used with pliable polyurethane pneumatic tubing relieves a lot of the stress too.

[thepatchworkdoll]

Hi PB
If you dont mind me asking. What are finger-tight" pneumatic fittings. Any advice very much appreciated.
Regards
Patch

[PeeBee]

Hi PB
If you dont mind me asking. What are finger-tight" pneumatic fittings. Any advice very much appreciated.
Regards
Patch

I've cut & paste this from elsewhere so sorry if it's a bit disjointed:

I use these to couple with Corny threaded disconnects: (Part No.2BJ0407) 1/4" BSPP MALE X 7/16" JIC FEM SW STEEL …
… and I get them from here: https://www.contextpneumatics-catalogue ... town=False

You've then got a 1/4" BSP thread and can attach whatever you like. I use "finger-tight" fittings with 6mm and 8mm polyurethane (from the same site). For example (fitting with flashy "spring-guard" too):

20181030_140025.jpg (24.83 KiB) Viewed 387 times

Expensive? You do have to get over the P&P (one price however many you order) but once you turn to these you don't go back to hyper-expensive JG fittings (and rigid 3/8" MDPE tubes).

Here's the "finger-tight" connector in the piccie above: https://www.contextpneumatics-catalogue ... town=False

It was the "C2X-6/4-1/4" (6mm tube) one I used but you can get 1/4" BSP to 8mm tube (8/6). And this is just the tip of the iceberg. "KELM Brass Quick-Fit Fittings" seem to list the finger-tight stuff (does not leak!), but there is the push fit stuff here too.

I use MDPE for beer line, and the 3/8" JG stuff too ("push-fit").

Here's some more examples (regulators being used as "spunding" valves):

[thepatchworkdoll]

Hi PB
Thanks for that very interesting indeed. Your a gentleman.
Regards
Patch