Type A Spears

[barneey]

Following on from another thread on JBK viewtopic.php?f=6&t=65795&p=692451#p692451

Mmmmmm I wonder what this is sitting onto of one of my Crusader "s" type kegs?








Yes they are fully exchangeable, to make a spanner I will simply drill another hole directly opposite the other hole on the top of the coupler, a piece of metal bar with a couple of bolts will then do the job very nicely.

One thing for you......... once an "a" is on the keg there is absolutely NO chance it will slip off.

I just need to do some more testing on how the coupler works with de-gassing

[DeadFall]

I'm being dim. Is that an a-type spear with an a-type coupler or an a coupler on an s-spear?

[barneey]

To explain a little bit more,

Over a year ago when Gnutz first posted about kegs, by chance he bought them with a "S" type coupler. Soon afterwards I bought a few kegs with the same type "s" coupler. The rest is history with the removal technique etc.......

For a long time now I`ve wanted to trial different types of coupler, a, d, g, s, u etc............

It wasn't until recently when Tony had bought some kegs with an "a" spear and actually removed the fitting it got me interested again.

All my Crusader Kegs were purchased with "s" spears.

The pictures above show my original keg but with the "s" removed and a type "a" spear inserted with the corresponding coupler.

So it would confirm that the thread on the keg for both the "s" and "a" are the same - I`m also now thinking that the a "g" spear also has the same thread on the keg. Fairly pointless to make a keg with 3 different threads to sell.....

So why does all this matter?........

2nd couplers on ebay used to be very cheap but since the advent of the crusader "s" kegs prices have gone up. "a" and "g" couplers are still cheap.

A type "d" spear as used by the USA market is a drop in effort.
A type "u" spear is still an unknown.

[DeadFall]

To explain a little bit more,

Over a year ago when Gnutz first posted about kegs, by chance he bought them with a "S" type coupler. Soon afterwards I bought a few kegs with the same type "s" coupler. The rest is history with the removal technique etc.......

For a long time now I`ve wanted to trial different types of coupler, a, d, g, s, u etc............

It wasn't until recently when Tony had bought some kegs with an "a" spear and actually removed the fitting it got me interested again.

All my Crusader Kegs were purchased with "s" spears.

The pictures above show my original keg but with the "s" removed and a type "a" spear inserted with the corresponding coupler.

So it would confirm that the thread on the keg for both the "s" and "a" are the same - I`m also now thinking that the a "g" spear also has the same thread on the keg. Fairly pointless to make a keg with 3 different threads to sell.....

So why does all this matter?........

2nd couplers on ebay used to be very cheap but since the advent of the crusader "s" kegs prices have gone up. "a" and "g" couplers are still cheap.

A type "d" spear as used by the USA market is a drop in effort.
A type "u" spear is still an unknown.

Cool, watching this thread with interest. How easy is the spear removal with an a-type?

[barneey]

Again with the "s" type it will depend on where the spears are manufactured / what type of safety is on them.

As always buy with the spear as a separate item, thus giving you the option of cutting the safety if required, with the "a" type pictured above the 5p trick wouldn't work.

As for tightening and loosening the "a" can be tapped around with a punch and hammer or by drilling another hole 180 to the original a simple spanner could be made.

[DeadFall]

Type A spear removal? Don't speak Norwegian?



I think that says coopers on the keg during one of the close ups, a bit of google and coopers use type A. I don't think a great big, rusty pipe wrench will be needed, a mallet and something to put in the hole should do the trick.

[barneey]

The top video is the best / most interesting from the safety bypass point of view, nice find.

In reality if you bought the spears from Crusader, I would just cut the clip off to save the hassle.

I still think an additional drill hole and spanner approach is the best way forward removal.....