Corny kegs ~ dip tubes ~ sediment ?

[poolking]

Hi, Currently fermenting my first Biab all grain brew. Having used top tap King kegs for years I`ve never had a problem with sediment and always got crystal clear brews. Just recently got set up with some corny`s and have noticed the dip tube goes right to the bottom of keg. I usually transfer to secondary after 5 days and then leave 10 / 14 days to clean up, and as said always get clear brews. I want to save some time and just transfer straight from fermenter 7 / 10 days. Bit worried about having sediment come up dip tube .. ie cloudy beer. What do others do ? whats my best option of getting a nice clear pint? Any help / advice appreciated. Thanks, Dave.

[mattp94]

I usually leave in the primary FV for 14 days then chill to around 4°C for a couple of days which helps to drop a lot of stuff out. After racking to the corny and leaving for another couple of weeks it is usually nice and clear. I don't have any trouble with sediment being drawn up exit tube. If I've used a poor floculating yeast then 6g of gelatin dissolved in 100ml of warm water and added to the corny before the beer also gives excellent results.

[poolking]

Thanks matt , new to corny`s just been reading about gelatin , sounds like a good idear. Don`t you get any off flavours from leaving in primary sat on same yeast ? I`ve made lots of kits and have just got into the habit of using secondary ferment under airlock to get off the yeast. Would save me hell of a lot of time , straight to corny from primary, Thanks, Dave.

[Kev888]

Even after up to four weeks in the primary FV and cooling to clear I tend to get 'some' sediment build up in the corny (partly because it can be in there for several more months, slowly getting clearer and clearer). Though it must be said I don't normally use finings or filters, and my cooling setup won't go down to 0C, so I'm not really going all-out to clear it.

In that case there are two options really - shorten the dip tube to avoid the sediment and as a result leave a pint or so behind at the end of the keg, or else leave things as they are and discard the first yeasty pint or so at the start of the keg. I've tried both and theres not much in it really, but I slightly prefer the latter - aside from being easy, you can then discard only whats actually necessary rather than leave behind what a shortened dip tube dictates. Although, if I'm going to take a keg somewhere (e.g. for a party) I'll rack off the corny to a clean one first, so that moving it about won't stir up the sediment of less flocculant yeasts.

EDIT: I've not had any detectable autolysis effects from being on the primary sediment for up to a month (it can be in there that long if I've been dry hopping for a week or two), though at least the last week of that time will be cooling to clear it. I think this issue has been overstated in the past; IMO with decent yeast you should be fine for a few weeks 'unless' they've been stressed and/or kept too warm for too long. Conversely, racking off the yeast 'too' soon has been said by some to be detrimental; I haven't actually done that so can't speak from experience, but supposedly it can cause the fermenting and subsequent clean-up processes of the yeast to slow.

Cheers
Kev

[IPA]

Hi, Currently fermenting my first Biab all grain brew. Having used top tap King kegs for years I`ve never had a problem with sediment and always got crystal clear brews. Just recently got set up with some corny`s and have noticed the dip tube goes right to the bottom of keg. I usually transfer to secondary after 5 days and then leave 10 / 14 days to clean up, and as said always get clear brews. I want to save some time and just transfer straight from fermenter 7 / 10 days. Bit worried about having sediment come up dip tube .. ie cloudy beer. What do others do ? whats my best option of getting a nice clear pint? Any help / advice appreciated. Thanks, Dave.

My advice would be to carry on as you have been doing just add gelatine finings to the secondary after fermentation has reached the anticipated FG and leave for 3 more days. Thats what I do and my beer in the cornies is crystal clear.

[poolking]

Thanks for the detailed answers guys, sounds like the gelatine is the way to go, only just started using corny`s so I guess I`ll also learn as I go along, Interesting to see some people go straight from primary to keg and others use secondary. Appreciated. Dave.

[Dave S]

Thanks for the detailed answers guys, sounds like the gelatine is the way to go, only just started using corny`s so I guess I`ll also learn as I go along, Interesting to see some people go straight from primary to keg and others use secondary. Appreciated. Dave.

Racking off to secondary used to be the prescribed method years ago. There seem to be few brewers these days who still adhere that method. Most go straight from FV to keg or bottling bucket. FWIW I've got a dry Irish stout that's been sitting in the FV for exactly 4 weeks and tastes excellent. I'll be racking it later today.

[poolking]

Hi Dave s. Bit off original topic ~~ but Just to confirm mate, Do you ferment in a large lid fermenter and crack the lid ( for the co2 to escape) or do you put your brew under airlock right from start? I would assume brew would be safe under airlock for 4 weeks but I`m not sure about the cracked lid ferment? That's partly why I secondary. I would like to go straight to keg from 1st though, would save plenty of time. Thanks, Dave.

[IPA]

Thanks for the detailed answers guys, sounds like the gelatine is the way to go, only just started using corny`s so I guess I`ll also learn as I go along, Interesting to see some people go straight from primary to keg and others use secondary. Appreciated. Dave.

Racking off to secondary used to be the prescribed method years ago. There seem to be few brewers these days who still adhere that method. Most go straight from FV to keg or bottling bucket..

If you are going to bulk prime, the best method when bottling, there is no alternative to transfering to a secondary if you want to have bright beer. I transfer to a secondary then fine and when fermentation is finished I transfer to the bottling vessel add the priming sugar and then bottle/barrel. As there is always, in my case, some beer left when the barrel/cornie is full I always need to put some in bottles. Here is a picture of a bottle of my beer taken after it had been turned upside down. You can see the minute film of yeast clinging to the bottom of the bottle. To all those who say transfering is not necessary I say try this yourself with one your bottles and post the picture.

[poolking]

Thanks IPA, I assume that's the gelatine holding the small amount of sediment at the bottom of the bottle. Looks like it works great, definitely giving that a try. . Also where`s best place to get gelatine from. Been in asda this morning ... tried home baking & nr jelly`s section couldn`t find any. Thanks, Dave.

[mattp94]

I use the Dr. Oetker gelatin from Tesco, i think it comes in 12g sachets so half of that in a 23l brew should be fine. I've only ever used it in the corny as I was under the impression that it could bind with the yeast and prevent the fermentation in the bottles required for carbonation and conditioning. However, reading IPA's post it would suggest I shouldn't have to worry.
Edit: The gelatin also works far more effectively if you add it to a cold beer, I've found this helps to eliminate chill haze.

[poolking]

Thanks Matt, will have a look next time I`m in Tesco, brew still fermenting so I`ve got time to get sorted. Thanks, Dave.

[Dave S]

Hi Dave s. Bit off original topic ~~ but Just to confirm mate, Do you ferment in a large lid fermenter and crack the lid ( for the co2 to escape) or do you put your brew under airlock right from start? I would assume brew would be safe under airlock for 4 weeks but I`m not sure about the cracked lid ferment? That's partly why I secondary. I would like to go straight to keg from 1st though, would save plenty of time. Thanks, Dave.

I always ferment under an airlock from the start. It never used to be prescribed years ago, but I and AFAIK no one else who does it that way has any problems. Also as you suggest it keeps the bug risk down.

[Dave S]

Thanks for the detailed answers guys, sounds like the gelatine is the way to go, only just started using corny`s so I guess I`ll also learn as I go along, Interesting to see some people go straight from primary to keg and others use secondary. Appreciated. Dave.

Racking off to secondary used to be the prescribed method years ago. There seem to be few brewers these days who still adhere that method. Most go straight from FV to keg or bottling bucket..

If you are going to bulk prime, the best method when bottling, there is no alternative to transfering to a secondary if you want to have bright beer. I transfer to a secondary then fine and when fermentation is finished I transfer to the bottling vessel add the priming sugar and then bottle/barrel. As there is always, in my case, some beer left when the barrel/cornie is full I always need to put some in bottles. Here is a picture of a bottle of my beer taken after it had been turned upside down. You can see the minute film of yeast clinging to the bottom of the bottle. To all those who say transfering is not necessary I say try this yourself with one your bottles and post the picture.

I've not bottled any more than around 4 in a 23 l batch for years. I'm not really a fan of bottled beer anyway, (I drink it under duress ) If I'm racking to mini kegs though, I'll batch prime by leaving it to ferment out in the FV, crash cool, then rack to bottling bucket, prime and keg. Don't really get a problem with clarity.

[poolking]

Hi Dave s. Bit off original topic ~~ but Just to confirm mate, Do you ferment in a large lid fermenter and crack the lid ( for the co2 to escape) or do you put your brew under airlock right from start? I would assume brew would be safe under airlock for 4 weeks but I`m not sure about the cracked lid ferment? That's partly why I secondary. I would like to go straight to keg from 1st though, would save plenty of time. Thanks, Dave.

I always ferment under an airlock from the start. It never used to be prescribed years ago, but I and AFAIK no one else who does it that way has any problems. Also as you suggest it keeps the bug risk down.

Thanks for that Dave s . appreciated.