Corny keg

[Digby]

I'm with Kev on this one.

I like quite a few styles that are traditionally higher carbonated (Weissbier and various Belgians). I have also had the misfortune to have these at a pub where they evidently had a leak in their system and as a result I had bother a Schneider Weisse Hopfenweisse and a Karmeliet Tripel that were woefully undercarbonated and as a result insipidly undrinkable.

I quite agree. I also make some styles such as Weissbier that are carbed to over 3 volumes. Even with my flow control taps I still need to have longer beer lines to make everything work well. Get the line length roughly right and fine tune with the flow control on the tap and away you go.

As an aside, I often prime my kegs (sankey rather than corny, but same principal) and I tend to use 2 to 3 g/l of sugar whatever the style. Once connected to the gas you gan tweak the pressure to increase the carbonation over a few days as required.

I prime as it is easier for me and I also generally prefer the resulting beer over a force carbed alternative. May be just my imagination though! Finally, I feel that (as with bottling) priming a keg uses almost all of the oxygen in the headspace and stabilises the beer for longer. I am drinking a 6.5% Export Stout kegged almost a year ago and it is still in excellent nick.

Sorry for the meanderings.

Matt

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[IPA]

Thanks all.

I think I will do the following.

Carb with sugar as I have done previously but use gas to seal.yhe keg. About 2.5 to 3g per litre.

Carb for two weeks in doors or at 18c in the temp control fridge.

Get some 3/16 line (does this fit on regular disconnect or do I need some additional john guest fitting?).

Purchase one of these.... http://www.homebrewkent.co.uk/product/l ... eer-float/

But from the bay.

Use my flow control taps.

I do have a spunding valve, should I bother with it?

Thanks all for the response. Truth be told, and I am not ungrateful, I just don't get a lot of it. So am trying to take a building block approach more than anything else.

If anyone has any other tips or sees any problems with what I have said please do let me know.

Time to enjoy a pint (shop bought...boo!)

Thats the float that I prefer. You will also need to replace the beer out dip tube with a gas in tube (ebay or Amazon)
and connect it with 60 cm of 6.5mm id silicon hose. Best not to shorten the long dip tube because they are almost impossible to replace. Use the spunding valve to reduce the internal pressure to 0.5 bar before connecting the serving tap. Using a float take off will give bright beer from the first to last drop.

[f00b4r]

I quite agree. I also make some styles such as Weissbier that are carbed to over 3 volumes. Even with my flow control taps I still need to have longer beer lines to make everything work well. Get the line length roughly right and fine tune with the flow control on the tap and away you go.

I prime as it is easier for me and I also generally prefer the resulting beer over a force carbed alternative. May be just my imagination though! Finally, I feel that (as with bottling) priming a keg uses almost all of the oxygen in the headspace and stabilises the beer for longer. I am drinking a 6.5% Export Stout kegged almost a year ago and it is still in excellent nick.

Flow control taps will only let you drop so much pressure, the Intertap manufacturers claim around 12 PSI maximum, for their own FC taps.
It is an interesting question around whether force carbonation versus natural carbonation (priming or using a spunding vavle with the last few points of fermentation) produces a nicer beer. In theory dissolved CO2 is just CO2 but there are quite a few who claim that forced carbonation produces an inferior beer, I don’t think I can believe that until I see some real evidence but I do tend to use a spunding valve myself as it is convenient, saves CO2 (I use 2kg bottles) and makes turn around time quicker.

[vacant]

Thats the float that I prefer. You will also need to replace the beer out dip tube with a gas in tube (ebay or Amazon)
and connect it with 60 cm of 6.5mm id silicon hose. Best not to shorten the long dip tube because they are almost impossible to replace.

That's exactly what I did, all worked perfectly. I'll add that the short dip tubes I got from China were so short I couldn't easily fix the silicone tubing up inside the recess so I used them as gas-in, and used the original (and longer) gas-in as gas-out!

The beer float I used was a slightly different design. These look like a third option.

[Mangold]

So with the float. Do I just attach the hose end over the dip tube? Should it be a snug fit?

[vacant]

Just "wiggled on" about 5mm or more should do it, doesn't need any sort of clamp.

[IPA]

So with the float. Do I just attach the hose end over the dip tube? Should it be a snug fit?

6.5mm internal diameter is the perfect push fit size

[Mangold]

Brilliant, thanks Vacant and IPA.

So about 60 grams of sugar dissolved in water for the priming should be ok for 19L?

[IPA]

Brilliant, thanks Vacant and IPA.

So about 60 grams of sugar dissolved in water for the priming should be ok for 19L?

I would use 48 gr. Don't forget the plastic bottle to check carbonation progress.