Discuss making up beer kits - the simplest way to brew.
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oblivious
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by oblivious » Wed Aug 22, 2007 10:31 am
dartgod wrote:If you follow steve_flack's linky you can get everything you need to brew a GOOD German Wheat
2.5kg Munton's Dry Wheat
21 g Tettnang or 14g Northern Brewer
Wyeast - 3068 - Weihenstephan
easy as that......
I just presumed they did hot have experience of making starter or prefer to use dry yeast
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dartgod
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by dartgod » Wed Aug 22, 2007 10:49 am
He would be alright without using a starter if he is using a Wyeast - 3068 - Weihenstephan smack pack......
He wants to make a German Hefe so IMO I think liquid would be his best choice.......
Q: What are the advantages/disadvantages of liquid vs. dry yeasts?
A: Dry yeast is living brewer's yeast which has been dehydrated (all of the water removed from the yeast cells). In this state, the yeast is more stable, so it stores better and is less prone to being killed by temperature changes. Most experienced brewers agree that dry yeast does not produce the better beer than liquid yeast, especially certain styles of beer such as lagers and wheat beers. The quality of most dried brewers yeast on the market today is pretty high, and many fine ales have been brewed with dry yeast. Dry yeast is also cheaper than liquid yeast.
Liquid yeast can produce an extremely clear, refined beer, and comes in a wide selection for virtually any beer style. The liquid yeast on the market today is also extremely pure, with no outside organisms or mutations. Liquid yeast is more fragile, and has a shorter shelf life of 2 to 4 months, although very old liquid yeast can often be revived by making a yeast starter- see our yeast starter page for how to do this
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Chris The Fish
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by Chris The Fish » Wed Aug 22, 2007 11:39 am
oblivious wrote: When a Safale going to release their other dry yeast over here

Hop and Grape now do about 4 new dry strains, if you look on their news section 3 of the new ones are there, plus the new wheat beer yeast.
Just got off the phone to patsy at H&G with a smorgasbord of yeasts on order.

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steve_flack
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by steve_flack » Wed Aug 22, 2007 11:41 am
But if the dried wheat yeasts are decent wheat yeasts they will make a better beer than a poorly used liquid yeast.
You must remember you are in the USA - your liquid yeast hasn't been flown thousands of miles around the world. Your liquid yeast doesn't cost more than $10 a pack. Your yeast is probably a lot more viable than it is by the time we get ours.
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CrownCap
- Hollow Legs
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by CrownCap » Wed Aug 22, 2007 11:45 am
steve_flack wrote:Brupaks do a Bavarian Weizen Kit
Linky
Reading the description HopShop have is interesting...
HopShop wrote:Although a bottom fermenting yeast has been used, the characteristic estuary flavours are much in evidence when fermenting at warmer temperatures
estuary flavours... would that be sort of brackish with a hint of effluent?

Next Up : Something for the summer
Primary : Nothing
Secondary / Conditioning : Nothing
Drinking : Mosaic IPA
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steve_flack
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by steve_flack » Wed Aug 22, 2007 11:50 am
perhaps they mean estery

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oblivious
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by oblivious » Wed Aug 22, 2007 2:27 pm
CrownCap wrote:steve_flack wrote:Brupaks do a Bavarian Weizen Kit
Linky
Reading the description HopShop have is interesting...
HopShop wrote:Although a bottom fermenting yeast has been used, the characteristic estuary flavours are much in evidence when fermenting at warmer temperatures
estuary flavours... would that be sort of brackish with a hint of effluent?

Nutty

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MickyD
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by MickyD » Wed Aug 22, 2007 5:21 pm
Wow, loads of advice. Thanks guys.
I was actually looking at the Brupaks Beers of the World Bavarian Wheat, and thought about trying it. Just thought I would see if anyone had any tips.
I think I will get this kit and perhaps use the WB-06 yeast Steve mentioned.
Dartgod, many many thanks for your advice but I am still trying to get the kits to work for me at the moment, so it will be a while before I start building beer from scratch.
Oh and you are quite right the beer does need to be disturbed slightly when pouring. I generally pour half the bottle very slowly, then lightly swish the last half of the bottle around and then pour into the glass. Thats the way I have seen them pour it in Austria and Germany.
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oblivious
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by oblivious » Wed Aug 22, 2007 5:35 pm
MickyD wrote:Oh and you are quite right the beer does need to be disturbed slightly when pouring. I generally pour half the bottle very slowly, then lightly swish the last half of the bottle around and then pour into the glass. Thats the way I have seen them pour it in Austria and Germany.
Or roll it gently along the table/bar before opening it
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Talisman
- Lost in an Alcoholic Haze
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Contact:
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by Talisman » Mon May 12, 2008 4:26 pm
My Friend Loves Erdinger and after looking around found this post.
Any NEW ideas on an AG recipe for me to have a go at to try match this beer.
Thanks
Black Lab Ale - est April 2008
FV 1: Old Spec Hen FG1053
FV 2: Empty
Cornie 1: Empty
Cornie 2: Empty
Cornie 3: Empty
Cornie 4: Empty
Cornie 5: Empty
Bottled: Nowt
http://www.blacklabale.co.uk
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steve_flack
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by steve_flack » Mon May 12, 2008 7:32 pm
You can get a wheat liquid malt extract that's pretty close to what you need, boil that with some noble hops (not that many) and ferment it with Wyeast 3068/Whitelabs-300 or a dried wheat beer yeast.
Alternatively all-grain is a 1:1 mixture of lager and wheat malts.