Priming
I have heard of people who've had problems with very clear beer, due to the lack of sufficient yeast to carry out secondary fermentation. However, the clarity would have to be pretty extreme for that to happen.
It is possible to add more active yeast (though someone else would have to supply the details on how to do that cos I don't know), but if you were just a little bit careless with the sediment while racking you would probably get enough yeast in suspension without adding more.
It is possible to add more active yeast (though someone else would have to supply the details on how to do that cos I don't know), but if you were just a little bit careless with the sediment while racking you would probably get enough yeast in suspension without adding more.

I've worried about this before, but it's never been a problem in the end, even with Safale which does drop very clear. You could try somewhere a little warmer to give the yeast a bit of a kick, say somewhere around 25°C for a week or so, that usually does the trick for me.ambler wrote:cheers chaps, im sure i have had this problem before but is always a worry . i use pet bottles not glass so no breakages around the house (and 11 is easier to clean than 40) but after a week of taking up space on the bookshelf the are still squishy
If you still haven't got anywhere with it, the other option is to make a yeast starter and drop a little into each bottle - that's sure to set it off. It would be a good excuse to use the rest to start another brew.

By the way, how much priming sugar did you add to each PET bottle?
I hope they are 2 litre PETs! 1 tablespoon is 4 teaspoons, which is quite a lot. I use 4 tsp for lagers, and the bottles are very lively and need refrigerating before opening, or you will have 'snowstorm' bottles...ambler wrote:1 tbsp per pet bottle usually does the trick
2-3 tsp per 2 litre PET is enough for beers to be served at room temperature.