Woodforde and Munton kits sticking - what's the alternative?

[troublebrewing]

Pardon my ignorance on this, but if there is a general problem with these kits sticking, what are the other kits available to try?

I have done one complete Muntons, am in the middle of doing one other (conkerwood) and have a Munton's Midas Touch Golden Ale yet to start.

Maybe I am jumping the gun a bit and should try to modify the way I have been making the kits? I'm particularly unsure about the way I have prepared the yeast, in the light of what I've read on the Sticky about sticking kits.

TB

[sparky Paul]

As an alternative, the Brupaks kits seem to be very highly regarded on here, both the 'Brewer's Choice' and 'Pride of Yorkshire' ranges.

I've only had experience with one Woodfordes kit, a Wherry, and it turned out excellent - but I have now just purchased a few of the Brupaks kits to try.

I just pitch dry yeast straight onto the wort, and I've never had any problems, touch wood. Usually, I only rehydrate yeast if the kit is nearing it's sell-by date, to check that it's okay, and I've never used a starter...

[tubby_shaw]

I switched to Brupaks and Coopers beers in the end, great results every time without fail.

Where extra fermentables were called for I used 1kg of spray malt. 75/25 spray malt and brewing sugar will do the trick also.

Good to know DaaB
Because time is at a premium at the mo I bought a Coopers Real Ale kit yesterday, it's earmarked for brewing midweek

[Chris The Fish]

Woodforde and Munton kits sticking - what's the alternative?

surely the easiest way of ensuring this doesnt happen is to use a different yeast ?

ive a muntons kit lined up next and have some nottingham yeast to ensure this doesnt happen, as soon as the ambiorix is out of the fermentor in goes the scottish export.

[Chris The Fish]

so to cover your bases its best to use a different yeast and a yeast nutrient also.

It what i have planned for my next brew.

[fivetide]

Yes, when I started the Great Eastern I used lots of yeast, plus nutrient, and a heck of a lot of aeration, but it still stopped at around 1018, then 1016.

Good news is after transferring to a secondary, which wasn't planned initially, and leaving in there for about five days with the dry hop bag, it's also had the happy effect of lowering to 1014.

I've got a feeling there's significance in the fact most rooms cool a few degrees at night you know, and that consistent warmth up at that 21-22 degrees level for longer time can really help out these stickers, if you've done everything else.

I remember Russ (?) rigging up an aquarium heater that suspended from the lid of his fermenter. I think it was pretty successful?

[Russ]

Yeah I use an aquarium heater in all my brews but I doubt this will solve the issues with the Muntons kits as I've had problems with them also (even after changing yeast etc) . Got fed up with Muntons so now on Brupacks kits. Just waiting for my 4th in a row to finish, all gone down to expected FG without a hitch

Enough said?

[fivetide]

Possibly.

Both pure malt though are they?

I need to try a few different brands and find out for myself, definitely.

That Coopers IPA kit everyone is currently raving about sounds too good value to ignore too, especially with a bit of hop tinkering...

[Russ]

Yeah both pure malt kits I believe......

Agree, the Coopers IPA sound tempting, going to add one to the trolley (+ spray malt etc) when next putting an order in which will be soon, got to get another Brupack's brewers choice best bitter on the go ASAP. The one I'm drinking is not going to last long.......

[Hoppkins]

I just kegged my Coopers IPA. It smelled very plain but not nasty or anything. I tasted a bit, it tasted ok. Im guessing it really needs to mature.

I also kegged my Coopers Bitter kit last week.

Roll on summer

[Exextractor]

I wonder if there might be another explanation than yeast/fermentation problems, namely wort fermentability, and it may not even be a problem as such. I've done a couple of extract brews using Munton's Medium Extract. OG1050 only got down to 1016 (left it 8 days), OG1032 got to 1010. Attenuation in both cases only about 70%. This despite aerating, pitching lots of fresh yeast, taking care over temperature etc. I then do an AG recipe, ferment it in exactly the same way and get OG1047 to 1006 in 4 days (87% attenuation). So there was nothing wrong with my fermentation procedures, the fermentability of the wort made the difference (I mashed too cold). If you get a good initial fermentation (loads of foam) and the beer does not taste unusually sweet then perhaps there is no problem. Perhaps these kits are mashed hot to provide good body/withstand sugar additions. My last Munton's kit instructions did not mention to expect a higher final gravity if you use spraymalt rather than sugar, but of course you should. The fact that some people report the gravity continuing to fall slowly suggests the yeast is slowly chomping. through complex sugars. Just a few thoughts.

[Paul_S]

Pardon my ignorance on this, but if there is a general problem with these kits sticking, what are the other kits available to try?

I have done one complete Muntons, am in the middle of doing one other (conkerwood) and have a Munton's Midas Touch Golden Ale yet to start.

Maybe I am jumping the gun a bit and should try to modify the way I have been making the kits? I'm particularly unsure about the way I have prepared the yeast, in the light of what I've read on the Sticky about sticking kits.

TB

I put on a Woodforde's Wherry kit at the weekend. However, I use Nottingham yeast not the one supplied in the packet. This yeast is vigorous & quick to settle when fermentation is complete. The brew is now well into secondary fermentation and gravity is dropping consistently. It will be under airtight cover tonight and the yeast should drop out of suspension very quickly. I will be trying to culture the yeast from this brew as it is very impressive for a dried yeast.

An all-malt kit like this should have no issues with nutrient levels, the only issue I'd look at is fermentation temperature & oxygen levels. Aerate the brew & see what happens.

I always make my yeast starter with small amount of lukewarm wort (30C) which has been vigorously shaken to dissolve the maximum amount of oxygen.