Overcarbed, why, help please......

[WalesAles]

Hello Boys and Girls....Only Me.....
I made this kit 18/6/22
UK Brew Bitter to 20lts.
1 can kit,
1Kg med spraymalt
SG1040
Dry Hopped with 50gr Simcoe pellets and 50gr Summit pellets day 8,
Hops out 1/7/22
Bottled 5/7/22
FG1010.
Batch primed 50gr white sugar, the destructions said 100gr sugar (never gone that much before).

The beer smells and tastes BLM.
The pint pours lovely, but with a 15mm head, tiny, tiny, bubbles up the glass right to the last mouthful.
The beer is super clear, the pint glass is rinsed out 3 times before pouring, no nucleation points
in the glass. The head subsides to about 4mm after a few minutes but the tiny, tiny bubbles are
always there pissing me off!

WA

[Jim]

I'm not sure exactly what you don't like about it, but if it's overcarbed and you only used 50g priming sugar, it can't have been fully fermented out when you bottled it surely.

Did you take 2 final gravity readings a day apart?

[MashBag]

Oooer never ever seen this before.... Before I had one last week.

WTF. Mine is just the same but from a kettle fermented AG.

SG was a bit high, but I carried on. I put it down to being very fresh, and the dissolved co2 not getting away cos of the temp/pressure/weather

[Eric]

The influence of 100g of pellets from dry hopping. Enzymes in the hops encourage additional fermentation.

When I add a few hops to casked beer, there is little need to prime. Bottled beer needs more CO2 than casked ale through a beer engine, but as a general rule, when dry hopped, it should be allowed more time to ferment before bottling, or primed with less sugar.

[MashBag]

Thanks Eric. That makes sense.

Mine was not dry hopped (instead a vodka tea) but the same applies. And your are right, it should have had a little longer before bottling.

[WalesAles]

The influence of 100g of pellets from dry hopping. Enzymes in the hops encourage additional fermentation.

When I add a few hops to casked beer, there is little need to prime. Bottled beer needs more CO2 than casked ale through a beer engine, but as a general rule, when dry hopped, it should be allowed more time to ferment before bottling, or primed with less sugar.

Thanks for the replies everyone,
Eric,
How much longer to ferment?
It reached 1010, I used less priming sugar, should I try less priming sugar next time?
Anyway, back to the thread........
Home from work, put a pint in fridge for an hour. Opened pint, nice hiss, poured as said before,
`Do you want a Flake in that Love?`
2nd pint in fridge for an hour, poured great, no big head, still lots of tiny, tiny bubbles
but the head is perfect, 1mm all the way down the glass!
What is going on?
If I keep checking these every hour I will be in a mess!
Still, if it is for the benefit of people on JBK, someones got to do it

WA

Bloody Hell Mun, it had to be me!

[MashBag]

I had 1010. Primed @ 1/2 tsp per.

Bomb disposal kit assembled and daily checks in place.

Tbh it is a good drop. I only did this as a correction.

@Eric. Is it enzymes or as simple as there are natural sugars in the late hops? Thinking sugars would pass along with water in the vodka hop essence, but enzymes would not. Brilliant experiment.

[Eric]

I can't answer such questions except to say I put hops directly into the cask, no vodka, as they have natural sanitising properties. That's why we put hops in at the start of a brew, otherwise if they are not put in until very late of after the boil, some beers, particularly those with oats in the grist (NEIPA), go off very quickly.

Breweries that dry hopped their cask beers would just put in a slack handful or at one stage the original pellets, which were compressed cones about 20mm by 6mm. If I add dry hops and prime, either the keystone blows out or the cask is a bit like Vesuvius for several days after spiling.

[MashBag]

Interesting. For the record, it had had its normal hopping, this was just a addition.