Sticking Munton's (Woodfordes) Kits - Information and offer

[soupdragon]

Did my Wherry with S-04 but after 2 weeks it would only drop to 1.012. Thought i was doing well getting it that low. Fermented it a bit on the cool side ( 18c ). Tasted ok tho, if a bit hazy.......
Should be cracking into the Colne by next weekend I hope
Tom

let us know what the Colne tastes like after only what 3 weeks conditioning? Mine will get at least 6-8 weeks before I start. My Fixby is really coming on nicely after 7 weeks of conditioning.

Will do
Cheers Tom

Cracked it tonight. Couldn't wait
Tastes a bit cleaner than the Wherry but still a bit green and sweet. I think I'd rate it higher than the Wherry but as I've only done 2 of Munton's 2 can kits I couldn't say where they come in the scheme of things.
Cheers Tom

[sladeywadey]

super. sounds like it needs to be left for at least a month.. Mine is going up in the attic tonight after having had a week's warm conditioning.

[albacore]

I'm new to this, just about to start drinking my second kit (a Wherry, my first was Admiral's Reserve). I have been checking on the keg weekly, and it has got significantly clearer between 2 and 3 weeks. (I had the first week in a room @ 20C, the last two weeks in the cellar at 9-11C).

In terms of FG, I have ended up kegging both of mine at 1.014-15, but I don't think these are stuck in any way, just finished at a higher FG than expected. Also, I measured the OG of the Wherry at 1.042, and I can't see how this can possibly give the advertised strength.

One thing I am going to do, though, is measure the gravity as I start drinking it, to see how much it has shifted in the barrel.

My main issue with both kits is that they seem to lack body and (I'm assuming it's related) condition. I primed with light DME, but am now thinking that it's not the light stuff that I'm lacking, but the dextrins.

My next effort will be a modified Wherry, doing a "mini boil" using some medium DME for more strength, and 200g (?) of crystal malt in the hope of getting some body. Does that sound like a plan?

albacore

[Olleman]

Hey,

I'm sort of new to this forum but have been an intensive reader the last couple of weeks since I've just taken up homebrewing. Kit brewing information in Sweden (Where I live) is quite scarce so this forum is certainly an ideal place for information. Now to the matter at hand:

Since a couple of months we have muntons premium gold series available in Sweden and last night I ordered me some Old conkerwood ale. I have read this thread and know about the possible problems but I really wanted to try this kit to compare to coopers etc with added malt extracts and so on. I asked my supplier whether he had heard anything about the stuck fermentation problems described here but he hadn't heard anything about these problems. He recommended that I added some "pilsnerenzyme" to make more of the sugar fermentable. But is this really the problem here? I mean, stuck fermentation at ~1020 sounds like dying/sleeping yeast and not the lack fermentable sugar? Also, if I add this I should end up with an ale dryer than it was intended to be right?

So I ask you guys, what would you recommend? Adding this enzyme or just adding some yeast nutrient? Also, should I add whatever you recommend only if the fermentation stucks or directly together with the pitch of yeast?


Br, Olle

[scottmoss]

Hey,

I'm sort of new to this forum but have been an intensive reader the last couple of weeks since I've just taken up homebrewing. Kit brewing information in Sweden (Where I live) is quite scarce so this forum is certainly an ideal place for information. Now to the matter at hand:

Since a couple of months we have muntons premium gold series available in Sweden and last night I ordered me some Old conkerwood ale. I have read this thread and know about the possible problems but I really wanted to try this kit to compare to coopers etc with added malt extracts and so on. I asked my supplier whether he had heard anything about the stuck fermentation problems described here but he hadn't heard anything about these problems. He recommended that I added some "pilsnerenzyme" to make more of the sugar fermentable. But is this really the problem here? I mean, stuck fermentation at ~1020 sounds like dying/sleeping yeast and not the lack fermentable sugar? Also, if I add this I should end up with an ale dryer than it was intended to be right?

So I ask you guys, what would you recommend? Adding this enzyme or just adding some yeast nutrient? Also, should I add whatever you recommend only if the fermentation stucks or directly together with the pitch of yeast?


Br, Olle

I've done loads of Muntons kist and only had stuck fermentation on my milestone black pearl, i just gave it a slight stir everyday and it went down to 1012-1014, so I would say just use yeast nutrients. They are not as bad as everyone makes out.

[Olleman]

Hey,
I've done loads of Muntons kist and only had stuck fermentation on my milestone black pearl, i just gave it a slight stir everyday and it went down to 1012-1014, so I would say just use yeast nutrients. They are not as bad as everyone makes out.

I assume that you mean that Muntons kits aren't as bad as everyone makes out and not the yeast nutrients? Should I add the nutrients right away or should I wait and see if the fermentation stucks first?

[scottmoss]

Hey,
I've done loads of Muntons kist and only had stuck fermentation on my milestone black pearl, i just gave it a slight stir everyday and it went down to 1012-1014, so I would say just use yeast nutrients. They are not as bad as everyone makes out.

I assume that you mean that Muntons kits aren't as bad as everyone makes out and not the yeast nutrients? Should I add the nutrients right away or should I wait and see if the fermentation stucks first?

Hi, sorry the Muntons kits are not as bad as everyone makes out (My personal view), you might as well add a teaspoon of yeast nutrient straight away. It will only help the yeast.

[Olleman]

Hi, sorry the Muntons kits are not as bad as everyone makes out (My personal view), you might as well add a teaspoon of yeast nutrient straight away. It will only help the yeast.

Ok, thanks for a really quick response, think I'm gonna do Ditch's stout for my next brew and then advance to the Conker ale!

[AdrianTrace]

My milestone IPA kit which I opened yesterday has an 11g pack of gervin ale yeast (muntons label) in it, rather than the 'standard' yeast packs in previous kits i've done

Don't know if this will be across the board or is just in the IPA kit... I've asked milestone, so I'll update with any reply.

[Olleman]

My milestone IPA kit which I opened yesterday has an 11g pack of gervin ale yeast (muntons label) in it, rather than the 'standard' yeast packs in previous kits i've done

Don't know if this will be across the board or is just in the IPA kit... I've asked milestone, so I'll update with any reply.

Mine arrived today and had the 6g original bag...

[AdrianTrace]

I guess mine's a newer kit It's fermenting well so far...

My query got bumped to Muntons, and I got this back:
Hi there

Muntons have changed the yeast to the original Milestone recipe. We think that the Gervin yeast is far superior.

Kind regards

I have asked if this "superior" yeast will be rolled out across the Munton's/ Milestone range

[guypettigrew]

Woodforde's Wherry is my first brew after returning to homebrew after 10 years or so.

It dropped to 1014/15 after 4 days using just the yeat in the kit sprinkled on the top of the brew.

It's in the barrel at the moment, with 3 ounces of priming sugar. It's been there 48 hours and looks as murky as a muddy pond!

Guy

[Olleman]

Hey,

I'm in my eighth day of fermentation with my Conkerwood Dark ale.

*OG started at 1054 (filled to 22 litres)
* Pitch at 25
*Room temp 21-22

OG is now 1018-ish and I have bubbles every 60 seconds or so. Is it feasible that with this extremely slow rate it will still go down a couple of points or should I prepare myself for what choices I have to make regarding that this kit possibly has stuck?

If my kit indeed is stuck at 1018 I will try to add some yeast nutrient and give it a gentle stir...since I'm a bit skeptical today I don't have much hope for this approach. My next choice is to bottle at 1018 or adding dry enzyme. I'm really worried about adding the enzyme since this will produce a beer that was not intended by Muntons.

Does anybody have any thoughts on bottling at FG 1018 vs adding dry enzyme and possibly getting it down as low as 1008-1010?sedi

Edit: Some yeast sediment had gotten stuck to the hydrometer, mine is stuck at 1020 and has been so for the last 24 hours, those Woodford's kit's sure live up to their reputation...


Br, Olle

[GazOC]

Hi guys,

I'm starting out in HB and doing a Woodfordes Eastern Ale next.

Given that the 2 "issues" with this kit seem to be that it doesn't ferment down far enough and the bitterness (i'm not keen a bitter beer) of the finished product might it be an idea to put an extra (say) 500g of spraymalt in with the kit?

Sorry if this is wrong place to ask this question.....

Cheers
Gaz

[Olleman]

A little update:

I actually got a response from Linda Arthrell today after e-mailing her yesterday afternoon. And she wanted my batch numbers which I of course do not have since I didn't save the tins...

Nevertheless she also gave me this information which perhaps could be of some interest for someone here:

"About 6 months ago we changed the mashing profile due to the seasons barley, which modified the fermentable sugars in the kit."

Olle