Wherry Worry

Discuss making up beer kits - the simplest way to brew.
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Chris The Fish

Post by Chris The Fish » Mon Mar 05, 2007 9:42 am

cheers for the replys, im now undergoing a complete rethink on what to do.

Ive been looking throught the equipment forum which have some excellent pointers on how to start off.

confused

Post by confused » Mon Mar 05, 2007 11:48 am

The Nelson's went into primary as planned yesterday - I started the yeast as per my normal practice and there was good activity after about 15 minutes when I pitched it and this morning there is a good foam on the top of the wort. Hopefully it will be bubbling away by this evening.

For someone who is not at all technical about brewing is the yeast used by Mintons for their Nelson's kit different to the Wherry kit?

itmustbemagic

Post by itmustbemagic » Mon Mar 05, 2007 12:27 pm

What great timing as I bought a Brewers Choice Old ale as they were on special offer ten days ago (info received from this forum !).
I went for the option 2 and put in a kg of dry sprayed malt. All went well on Sunday morning with the mix. I discarded the supplied yeast and used Safevale S-04, having first used a starting bottle. Stirred like mad using the drill and paddle meathod. I awoke this morning to see a great yeast head working away. Starting OG 1045. I will let you know how it develops.

prodigal2

Post by prodigal2 » Mon Mar 05, 2007 1:53 pm

DaaB wrote:Woodfordes (ie Wherry) Kits and Muntons Gold and Premium Gold all use Muntons Gold yeast apparently.

(or they should do as Muntons claim on their website their standard yeast isnt up to fermenting all malt recipes).
The yeast that I have had with my Wherry kits was unbranded, so who knows.

SiHoltye

Post by SiHoltye » Mon Mar 05, 2007 11:12 pm

Well the wherry that begun this thread has had it's time in my nice warm house (1 week post bottling) and now it's consigned to the yard for a month. The clarity looks good (through the brown glass of the bottles) and you can see the yeast 'gunk' lying on the bottom of the bottle.
During the warm conditioning week directly after bottling I did invert the bottles once midway through to re-suspend any yeast that had settled. I felt confident enough to do this 'cos it was clearing quickly and wondered if even a little further conditioning/secondary could be achieved by re-suspending the last remaining yeast. We'll see in a month. I'll report back.

Brew Number Two

This is a Brupaks Fixby Gold which had a great crust formed post pitching for 4 days. Then crust wilted away and a few bubbly bits remained. Gravity after 6 days is 1018 following a stir to re-suspend yesterday as at 1020. This 1018 is sneakily above the 1015 the paperwork in the Brupaks box states for when you can assume fermentation is over. I know the full week isn't up 'til tomorrow, and am prepared to leave it longer still, I just wondered what figures people achieved with this kit before, and how good the finished product turned out when a little above in the numbers. What qualities does the beer (in taste) possess when it's been bottled/kegged at a higher than stated Gravity?
:-k

SiHoltye

Post by SiHoltye » Tue Mar 06, 2007 9:28 pm

http://sets.me.uk/brewing/

Is this OK to you guys? It's starting to get a hint of a plasticky smell to it. It's was all well sanitized (VWP) and rinsed, including the spoon for rousing the sediment. The only thing I can think of is that is infected, perhaps I've been looking at it too much!

PS, how do you put images in the posts rather than just links, I haven't worked it out yet? Such a thicky as I am, clearly means I must have no right to make beer at home................ :(

SiHoltye

Post by SiHoltye » Tue Mar 06, 2007 10:43 pm

Thanks for the picture info, I'll defo do that next time.

Use Campden did I?
No I didn't. I was going to and went to my local homebrew shop and this happened.

On asking the lady there for campden tablets because I wanted to add half a crushed one to my water to remove chloramines/chlorine (as per previous detailed posts by kind fellow forum members) she thought it ususual to use campden to prepare for beer brewing as she said it killed yeast. On phoning her husband and owner of the shop he confirmed that I should not do this.

I was confused, and so did not purchase or use any. What's the deal here? This is conflicting and impossible to decipher if just starting out in brewing. Help again please. Whats the story here, is too much Campden bad, or is the HBS owner wrong in this case?
:?

SiHoltye

Post by SiHoltye » Tue Mar 06, 2007 10:47 pm

Thanks Daab about the picture thing. I found the image code under the properties tab for the piccy on the my webpage so I can use it now. Just better make sure and preview them first. Damn Big. :wink:

SiHoltye

Post by SiHoltye » Tue Mar 06, 2007 11:11 pm

Thanks. I'll do this next time. Knowledge is the bomb.

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bitter_dave
Even further under the Table
Posts: 2170
Joined: Thu Dec 29, 2005 1:00 pm
Location: Whitley Bay

Post by bitter_dave » Wed Mar 07, 2007 8:42 am

I'm afraid some shop owners seem to know very little about brewing beer, beyond the basics of kit + water + yeast, which I assume is because they are more into the wine side of things :(

Hoppkins

Post by Hoppkins » Wed Mar 07, 2007 9:46 am

Yes i'm afraid to say my local(ish) homebrew shop has a lady who seemed very unkeyed up about brewing :/

SiHoltye

The finished Wherry

Post by SiHoltye » Sun Mar 11, 2007 11:34 pm

Having cold conditioned the bottled wherry for only 1 week (This is my first attempt and am dead keen to have a taste!) I can report back.

This got bottled at 1016 not 1014 as box said and it is very early to be drinking it but it tastes OK. I think further time passing will see it clear further, however it looks pretty clear even now. The taste is a complex as it should be (it has a start middle and end) BUT, in my case I have a medicinal twang all the way through. Perhaps 'cos not matured fully, and perhaps got I didn't treat the water with a campden. Does anyone recognise this medicinal twang and can they suggest from where it comes?
Image
PS. It has a great head when poured but this disppears from ½way down - oh well.

SiHoltye

Post by SiHoltye » Sun Mar 11, 2007 11:36 pm

BLIMEY

Sorry for the giant pint! How do I scale this bugger down, any thoughts?!? It looks small on the web page I put it on: 'www.sets.me.uk/brewing'

tubby_shaw

Post by tubby_shaw » Sun Mar 11, 2007 11:38 pm

Unfortunatly that medicinal twang/TCP taste comes from the reactions of the fermenting yeast and the chlorines in your tap water :(
The 1/2 campden tablet water treatment will sort it next time 8)

SiHoltye

Post by SiHoltye » Sun Mar 11, 2007 11:50 pm

I'm sooooooooooooooo happy it's that simple. The beer is tasty if you ignore the listerine effect! I've got a Fixby Gold done again without any water treatment in the fermenter at present. It's a bit stuck and I've got Beer Enzyme on order for tomorrow or Tuesday that'll hopefully help it down from 1020. It too will no doubt be TCP-ish. Perhaps it is my water that inhibits full fermentation also. I've tried a couple of yeasts now and even S-04 struggled in my swimming pool ready toxic tap water. I'm considering turning a sackful of Campden into Outwood reservoir for the sake of homebrewers all over RH10. :D

PS Thanks Daab.

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