Hi fellow Home brewers,
I'm new to this forum and new to home-brew apart from a slap dash attempt at brewing cheap beer at Uni (Less said about this the better)!
I am gathering all the equipment and knowledge to have a decent attempt at a home brew kit and have come across an anomaly with recommended fermentation temperatures!?
I have read it should be ideally some where between 18 - 26 degrees Celsius
http://www.18000feet.com/how/H2HB2.htm
But I have also read it should be between 9 - 15 ideally 12 degrees Celsius
http://www.the-home-brew-shop.co.uk/item1292.htm
Can anyone advise on why these are so wildly different!
I plan on doing a simple budget Larger kit to start with and will take it from there.
Many Thanks
Ian Martin
Fermentation Temperatures
Hi Ian, and welcome.
Put simply, the best fermentation temperature depends almost entirely on the strain of yeast you are using.
Generally speaking the lower temperature you mentioned (12C) would suit a bottom fermenting lager yeast, whereas the higher temperature range is more typical of an ale yeast.
To get the most authentic result, you need the correct wort (therefore recipe), the right type of yeast and the correct fermentation conditions (temperature). If you're brewing from a kit, these are all fixed and you just need to follow the instructions (though see http://www.forumforfree.com/forums/inde ... wtopic=424 thread for more details.
Hope that helps!
Put simply, the best fermentation temperature depends almost entirely on the strain of yeast you are using.
Generally speaking the lower temperature you mentioned (12C) would suit a bottom fermenting lager yeast, whereas the higher temperature range is more typical of an ale yeast.
To get the most authentic result, you need the correct wort (therefore recipe), the right type of yeast and the correct fermentation conditions (temperature). If you're brewing from a kit, these are all fixed and you just need to follow the instructions (though see http://www.forumforfree.com/forums/inde ... wtopic=424 thread for more details.
Hope that helps!
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IanRMartin
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IanRMartin
QUOTE (jim @ Jun 20 2006, 12:04 PM) Hi Ian, and welcome.
Put simply, the best fermentation temperature depends almost entirely on the strain of yeast you are using.
Generally speaking the lower temperature you mentioned (12C) would suit a bottom fermenting lager yeast, whereas the higher temperature range is more typical of an ale yeast.
To get the most authentic result, you need the correct wort (therefore recipe), the right type of yeast and the correct fermentation conditions (temperature). If you're brewing from a kit, these are all fixed and you just need to follow the instructions (though see http://www.forumforfree.com/forums/inde ... wtopic=424 thread for more details.
Hope that helps!
Thanks Jim,
I shall have a read through the thread you suggest.
Ian
Put simply, the best fermentation temperature depends almost entirely on the strain of yeast you are using.
Generally speaking the lower temperature you mentioned (12C) would suit a bottom fermenting lager yeast, whereas the higher temperature range is more typical of an ale yeast.
To get the most authentic result, you need the correct wort (therefore recipe), the right type of yeast and the correct fermentation conditions (temperature). If you're brewing from a kit, these are all fixed and you just need to follow the instructions (though see http://www.forumforfree.com/forums/inde ... wtopic=424 thread for more details.
Hope that helps!
Thanks Jim,
I shall have a read through the thread you suggest.
Ian
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Reg
- I do it all with smoke and mirrors
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QUOTE (IanRMartin @ Jun 20 2006, 12:07 PM) Hi Reg,
I see so the recommended temp for a "Proper Larger" is that low, hence the instruction with the specific larger yeast but as a general rule for brewing the 18 - 26 should be fine.
Thanks
Ian
That's right although you'll see above that Jim has given a more correct technical answer. (He's good like that y'know).
Some people brew lager clones with top fermenting ale yeasts and a pale wort, but if you have a coolish room or shed, then more authentic results can be achieved using the right yeast and brewing temperature.
I see so the recommended temp for a "Proper Larger" is that low, hence the instruction with the specific larger yeast but as a general rule for brewing the 18 - 26 should be fine.
Thanks
Ian
That's right although you'll see above that Jim has given a more correct technical answer. (He's good like that y'know).
Some people brew lager clones with top fermenting ale yeasts and a pale wort, but if you have a coolish room or shed, then more authentic results can be achieved using the right yeast and brewing temperature.
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IanRMartin
Many Thanks for the replies Jim & Reg,
I think i may have jumped the gun a bit here going from a budget larger kit to producing a authentic larger!
I shall give the kit a ago over the next couple of weeks or when i finaly get out a buy all the equipment i need and will post any results should they be worthy of posting.
Ian
I think i may have jumped the gun a bit here going from a budget larger kit to producing a authentic larger!
I shall give the kit a ago over the next couple of weeks or when i finaly get out a buy all the equipment i need and will post any results should they be worthy of posting.
Ian
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IanRMartin
QUOTE (Daft as a Brush @ Jun 20 2006, 02:41 PM) It may be worth considering saving the lager kit for the winter, not only does it need fermenting at lower temperatures but it requires maturing at lower temperatures too over a much longer period than an ale. (and definately longer than the 2 week some manufactures recommend).
This only applies to lager kits that come with a genuine lager yeast though (generaly Brupaks) :blink: as most come with an ale yeast and can be fermented in the temperature range 18-26 deg c. The draw brack being that you dont end up with quite that crisp clean lager taste that you'd normaly expect.
There are a handfull of ale kits on the market that would suit a lager drinkers palet such as Woodefords Great Eastern and Muntons Midas Touch or alternatively Coopers kits produce good lager style beer and they use ale yeast, however they should be made up using 1kg of light spray malt instead of the 1kg of sugar that is generaly stated in the instructions. Another manufacturer is Brewferm, they also use an ale yeast I believe, these kits usualy state in the recipe to add sugar, this is also best avoided and replaced with an equal quantity of spray. They have quite an interesting range too although the recipes are often designed to make much less than the standard 23L http://www.brewferm.be/en/brewferm.htm
DaaB
The only reason i picked a larger kit or rather was going to pick a larger kit is that i thought they were easier to start with!
I do not actually drink a lot of larger.
My prefered tipple is Banks Mild or Marstons Pedigree :beer :beer :beer
Could you recommend some kits on these types of ales.
Many Thanks
Ian
This only applies to lager kits that come with a genuine lager yeast though (generaly Brupaks) :blink: as most come with an ale yeast and can be fermented in the temperature range 18-26 deg c. The draw brack being that you dont end up with quite that crisp clean lager taste that you'd normaly expect.
There are a handfull of ale kits on the market that would suit a lager drinkers palet such as Woodefords Great Eastern and Muntons Midas Touch or alternatively Coopers kits produce good lager style beer and they use ale yeast, however they should be made up using 1kg of light spray malt instead of the 1kg of sugar that is generaly stated in the instructions. Another manufacturer is Brewferm, they also use an ale yeast I believe, these kits usualy state in the recipe to add sugar, this is also best avoided and replaced with an equal quantity of spray. They have quite an interesting range too although the recipes are often designed to make much less than the standard 23L http://www.brewferm.be/en/brewferm.htm
DaaB
The only reason i picked a larger kit or rather was going to pick a larger kit is that i thought they were easier to start with!
I do not actually drink a lot of larger.
My prefered tipple is Banks Mild or Marstons Pedigree :beer :beer :beer
Could you recommend some kits on these types of ales.
Many Thanks
Ian
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IanRMartin
QUOTE (Daft as a Brush @ Jun 20 2006, 07:22 PM)I havent had Banks Mild before i'm afraid and it's been a few years since i've had Marstons Pedigree.
Check out the Brupaks Pride of Yorkshire range, they have brief descriptions of each beer in the range and do more justice than I can. I personaly reckon that the Brupaks range are the best kits you can buy, my favorite being fixby gold. Colne Valley bitter is rather nice too but i've only had a sneaky sip so far. You can see the range here at http://www.hopandgrape.co.uk/admin/cata ... e=0&page=1 but most good homebrew shops stock them (or will get them).
I keep forgetting you can't get Banks's outside the midlands. In fact if you stray to far from wolverhampton it can be difficult to find!!
If how ever you get the chance i would whole heartly recommend you try both the Banks's Mild (They have changed the name to Banks's Original - i think they wanted to get away from the stigma of only old men drink mild!)
&
Banks's Bitter
Both lovely drinks in my honest opinion check here for a mouth watering pic
http://www.bankssbeer.co.uk/site/original.htm
http://www.bankssbeer.co.uk/site/bitter.htm
Thanks for the link to H&G i shall probably get one of there starter beer kits the one with the brupaks included and specify the honley mild.
I'm really looking forward to my first brew already, I shall have a copy of your version of the burpaks instructions on hand. (Nice and simple clear instructions - Just how i like them!)
While i'm thinking about your instructions would you say it was a good idea dropping the brew after say 4 - 5 days or after a steady SG reading to help remove some of the sediment then leave for a furthur 4 - 5 days to complete fermentation fully then bottle or keg with priming sugar? I know this requires a second fermentation bin but is there any advantage doing this or is it an unnessasary additional step??
I know brewing is not an exact science and people tastes and opinions vary considerably but I always like to here lots of peoples opinions take them onboard and then formulate my own.
Ian
Check out the Brupaks Pride of Yorkshire range, they have brief descriptions of each beer in the range and do more justice than I can. I personaly reckon that the Brupaks range are the best kits you can buy, my favorite being fixby gold. Colne Valley bitter is rather nice too but i've only had a sneaky sip so far. You can see the range here at http://www.hopandgrape.co.uk/admin/cata ... e=0&page=1 but most good homebrew shops stock them (or will get them).
I keep forgetting you can't get Banks's outside the midlands. In fact if you stray to far from wolverhampton it can be difficult to find!!
If how ever you get the chance i would whole heartly recommend you try both the Banks's Mild (They have changed the name to Banks's Original - i think they wanted to get away from the stigma of only old men drink mild!)
&
Banks's Bitter
Both lovely drinks in my honest opinion check here for a mouth watering pic
http://www.bankssbeer.co.uk/site/original.htm
http://www.bankssbeer.co.uk/site/bitter.htm
Thanks for the link to H&G i shall probably get one of there starter beer kits the one with the brupaks included and specify the honley mild.
I'm really looking forward to my first brew already, I shall have a copy of your version of the burpaks instructions on hand. (Nice and simple clear instructions - Just how i like them!)
While i'm thinking about your instructions would you say it was a good idea dropping the brew after say 4 - 5 days or after a steady SG reading to help remove some of the sediment then leave for a furthur 4 - 5 days to complete fermentation fully then bottle or keg with priming sugar? I know this requires a second fermentation bin but is there any advantage doing this or is it an unnessasary additional step??
I know brewing is not an exact science and people tastes and opinions vary considerably but I always like to here lots of peoples opinions take them onboard and then formulate my own.
Ian
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PieOPah
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IanRMartin
QUOTE (PieOPah @ Jun 21 2006, 03:10 PM) Personally I have never done a secondary ferment yet. This is something that I may do when I use fruit in a brew but I have never needed to yet 
Thanks for that PieOPah,
If you don't mind me asking how long do you leave your brew to ferment before keging or bottling?
Ian
Thanks for that PieOPah,
If you don't mind me asking how long do you leave your brew to ferment before keging or bottling?
Ian
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IanRMartin
QUOTE (andy @ Jun 21 2006, 03:12 PM) QUOTE (IanRMartin @ Jun 21 2006, 03:55 PM) I keep forgetting you can't get Banks's outside the midlands. In fact if you stray to far from wolverhampton it can be difficult to find!!
DaaB gets a nosebleed if he ventures further North than M3 J4
How about yourself andy, have you tried the wonders of Banks's?
DaaB gets a nosebleed if he ventures further North than M3 J4
How about yourself andy, have you tried the wonders of Banks's?
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tribs
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IanRMartin
QUOTE (tribs @ Jun 21 2006, 03:26 PM)We've got quite a few banks pubs round our way north of Manchester. I'm not sure I've ever had their mild but I quite like their cask bitter. The nitrokeg stuff is pants though 
Hi tribs,
Are we talking about the same Banks's http://www.bankssbeer.co.uk/
As far as i was aware they only do two Beers, Mild (AKA: Original) & Bitter
And these http://www.bankssbeer.co.uk/site/more_beers.htm
All brewed in Wolverhampton.
I've never heard of nitrokeg??
Ian
Hi tribs,
Are we talking about the same Banks's http://www.bankssbeer.co.uk/
As far as i was aware they only do two Beers, Mild (AKA: Original) & Bitter
And these http://www.bankssbeer.co.uk/site/more_beers.htm
All brewed in Wolverhampton.
I've never heard of nitrokeg??
Ian