Brupaks Lager kit

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batarang

Brupaks Lager kit

Post by batarang » Sun May 11, 2008 11:54 pm

Going to get a Brupaks lager kit on the go tomorrow, before it starts to get too warm in the workshop - still steady at 12 degrees in there, here in Dundee.
Looking at the 18000ft 'How To. . .Brupaks's method' it suggests making a yeast starter bottle, which I have done very sucessfully before for ales, but not for lager.
What is the best method of pitching a lager yeast into a Brupak lager kit?
Thanks.

batarang

Post by batarang » Mon May 12, 2008 7:45 am

Thanks DaaB,

So do I just sprinkle the yeast onto the brew once in the fermentation vessel?

Thankfully along with my H&G order I bought a couple of sachet's of SafLager S23. Would you reccommend using both of these or 1 plus the Brupak's sachet?

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Aleman
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Post by Aleman » Mon May 12, 2008 11:07 am

DaaB wrote:The Brupaks lager I made contained a sachet of Saflager, I wouldn't be supprised if it was still Saflager, even if it isn't in the same pack, there aren't that many dried lager yeasts available. 2 x 12g packs is more than enough for a 1040 lager.
But only if you are pitching warm (around ~20C) and then cooling to Fermentation temp of 12C. The Fermentis specs recommend 80-120g/hl pitching above 12C (18-27.6g/23L - so ok for 2 packs). if you are pitching at or below 12C then its up to 200-300g/hl (down to 9C so thats 46-69g/23l or 4-6 packs :shock:).

if it was me, I'd pitch two packs (rehydrated) at 18C and keep it there until fermentation starts (12-18 hours) then move it into the cold. As after 7-10 days, toward the end of fermentation, I'd bring the temp up to 18C again for a couple of days, to get the yeast to clean up after itself. You won't get the same results as pitching the proper amount of yeast at cold temperatures but it will be damn close . . . and its only judges who might notice any differences anyway ;)

batarang

Post by batarang » Mon May 12, 2008 8:41 pm

Thanks for the very useful info.

At the moment the ambient temp in the house is around 18-20 degrees with all the heating turned off. The temp in the workshop is still, and seems to remain at almost cellar temp @12 degrees.

So 2 packs of yeast, started in the usual way, pitched and FV kept in house for 2-3 days till fermentation gets under way. Move FV to workshop till fermentation subsides/halts then move back indoors for a few more days?

After which I intend to transfer to a cornelius keg. Do you recommend siphoning directly to the corny or should I rack to a BB demijohn to clear then put into corny, gas and put in fridge? It IS lager![/b]

batarang

Post by batarang » Mon May 12, 2008 9:18 pm

Thanks DaaB,

Will do that.

Just one more quick question. How much space do you leave at the top of the corny when filling?

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Post by Aleman » Tue May 13, 2008 8:24 am

batarang wrote:So 2 packs of yeast, started in the usual way, pitched and FV kept in house for 2-3 days till fermentation gets under way.

Don't leave it that long!!! Fermentation should be underway withing 18-24 hours then after moving it to the cooler place it will take time to cool down. I'd wait until there was some sign of yeast activity on the surface and then move it, otherwise you'll end up with an ale tasting lager :?

batarang

Post by batarang » Tue May 13, 2008 11:56 pm

Thanks for the very useful advice Aleman,

Re-read your previous reply's and of course all the information is there, sorry.

Will transfer brew to a primed corni, leave at 12deg' for 3-4 days? then put corni in fridge for a week or three.

Totem

Post by Totem » Wed May 14, 2008 7:20 am

You won’t have to prime the cornie if you’re going force carbonate that would also cut down on the sediment after laagering.

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