Have just bottled my John Bull best bitter (second brewing attempt) and unlike the Wherry which had a proper yeast cake, this one had hardly anything.
My Wherry was fermented with added 1KG BKE (mistakenly, but not complaining OG 1050 FG 1012 and tasted fab if not a little sweet and thinish)
I thought the yeast in the John Bull kit was paggered so added a sachet from a surplus Young's Bitter kit with a teaspoon of nutrient) OG 1040 FG 1010 after 10 days ferment and a sachet of beer finings added on day 7.
The Wherry had an inch thick of sediment and well claggy, the John Bull had at best a dusting of sediment about 2mm thick and was more of a slurry.
Wherry managed 46 pints John Bull 39, due to different amounts of water added.
Questions are is this the norm for JB kits? Also There was a lot of suspended stuff on bottling was this the sediment and my kaked handling?
Try as I might I can't get a clear beer or even close from the FV, I guess it just means I'll have a lot of sediment into bottles and have to wait longer for maturity!! BTW I bottle striaght from the FV with a syphon will eventually get round to a stick and possibly a second FV/bottling bucket, although with a bottling bucket don't see the advantage versus the risk of oxidisation.
Forgive the long windedness but you can see the point and where I'm coming from I hope.
John Bull and no yeast cake!!
It sounds as though you still had quite a bit of yeast in suspension when you bottled, unfortunately - the amount of yeast sediment doesn't depend on the type of kit, though different yeast strains tend to produce sediments of different consistencies.
It may be that you're room is at too high a temperature to allow the yeast to settle out well. Colder is better for clearing, so it might be worth moving the fermenter somewhere cooler for a few days, once fermentation is complete (16C or so).
It may be that you're room is at too high a temperature to allow the yeast to settle out well. Colder is better for clearing, so it might be worth moving the fermenter somewhere cooler for a few days, once fermentation is complete (16C or so).
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Aes9471
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sparky Paul
If you used the supplied JB yeast as well, I always found that this throws a lot of unstable sediment, and it always gave me trouble bottling. Geordie kit yeasts are little better, if any.
The best recommendation I can give is to bin the supplied yeast and use Safale 04 yeast, especially if bottling. If forms a good solid sediment, clears very bright, and less yeast is carried over - but enough to prime okay. I found I preferred the flavour of Safale brews too, by doing identikit brews with several different yeasts, both supplied and 'premium' yeasts.
The best recommendation I can give is to bin the supplied yeast and use Safale 04 yeast, especially if bottling. If forms a good solid sediment, clears very bright, and less yeast is carried over - but enough to prime okay. I found I preferred the flavour of Safale brews too, by doing identikit brews with several different yeasts, both supplied and 'premium' yeasts.