Fermenter to bottles

Discuss making up beer kits - the simplest way to brew.
Post Reply
Mat C

Fermenter to bottles

Post by Mat C » Thu Jan 18, 2007 11:00 pm

It must be a change to see some of us newbies not talking about yeast problems with Werry. Why don’t they just supply good yeast?

Anyway getting to the point - third brew on the go a Woodfords Werry, used 11g of Safale us-56 yeast it got off to a very slow start fermenting I think because it dropped to 16C the first night (un- expected frost) anyway it seems to be going to plan now.

I want to bottle it in 500ml pet bottles. I have an empty keg but I want to save that for the next brew.

I have some ideas -- all comments gratefully received.
  • 1. Drop it into the cask very soon i.e. 1020 and leave the cap off for secondary fermenting thus getting rid of some debris. Bottle sometime later. When?
    2. As above but wait until I get final gravity 1010? Bottle sometime later. When?

    3. Leave it in the fementer and bottle straight from that.

    4. How? when? if at all? should I prime?
Thanks

tubby_shaw

Post by tubby_shaw » Thu Jan 18, 2007 11:39 pm

My technique is to rack to secondary at about an SG of 1020 allow it to finish fermenting (with the cap on, if you put it in your barrel) allow it to fall clear of yeast and bottle from the secondary.
It will take longer to condition if you bottle clear beer, but it will condition if you have the patience 8)
As for priming you can either add 1/2 tsp per 500ml bottle of white sugar, or you can dissolve 80 grammes or so of sugar in hot water, or beer :D and add it to the bulk of the beer in the secondary and gently stir it in prior to bottling. Place the bottles somewhere at a temp between 18 to 22 C for a week or so, then in a cool dark place for another week and drink 8)

Mat C

Post by Mat C » Fri Jan 19, 2007 12:57 am

Thanks guys,

Had to get the book out and check some of the terms. and I`m still a bit confused :?
Daa B you say
I would avoid dropping, I see little need if brewing a kit (or at all),
And then
I would use a secondary or at least leave your beer in the primary long enough for it to clear (almost),


You both say to drop/rack/ transfer to barrel after primary - bit confused about when primary finished and secondry starts is this about 1020 (started at 1040) suposed to end up about 1010. Plus no more activty on top?

tubby_shaw
allow it to fall clear of yeast and bottle from the secondary]
Do you mean compleatly clear or just clear of floting bits?

Think i will drop/rack/transfer as above unless you guys say stop? [/b

Frothy

Post by Frothy » Fri Jan 19, 2007 1:00 am

The "how long" question just depends on how you want to use your 2ndary.
a) for settling / clarification - few days with finings
b) for conditioning - 4 weeks +

if your bottle conditioning then just use it for clarification. Ideally you'd want to condition in the barrel before bottling but this way the beer is at danger of oxidation (unless there is enough protective co2) and some people find they have to add extra yeast in the bottle.

Frothy

Mat C

Post by Mat C » Fri Jan 19, 2007 11:07 am

Once again thanks for putting in your stuff, you guys are stars and "after midnight!" Think i have my head round it all now. :)

I am going to let the beer go down to FG in the primary and rack/drop to cask and add glucose and finngs - this is how i did my first two brews. Then bottle after about 24 hours?
(want to free up the barrel for next brew.)
Will post back when i open a bottle

Post Reply