Nottingham Yeast with Nelsons Revenge

[Chris The Fish]

In view of the problems reported with woodfordes kits (ive had a wherry stickat 1014 but that tasted lovely!), would using notts yeast make any difference to the taste?

ive heard its quite neutral, however im not sure if the woodfordes yeast is, if thier yeast adds something to their beer i dont want to miss out by using a neutral yeast.

cheers

chris

[steve_flack]

AFAIK the dry yeast you get with the kits isn't Woodfordes yeast anyway.

The supplied yeast with the kits is probably one of the 'usual suspect' dried yeasts. Unless that yeast is Nottingham then the flavour will be different with Nottingham.

[Chris The Fish]

to take this one a little further, if i do use nottingham yeast, ive got 2 sachets sitting on the shelf - shall i use both? 22g or is that taking things a bit too far.

Like i said earlier, i did the wherry and had it stuck on 1018, the addition of notts yeast then brought it to 1014 and acceptable for kegging - all im trying to do is avoid this again, it would be a shame if it went boobies north as the wherry was such a lovely pint dispite all the farting about and im looking forward to this also.

what do you reckon? 11 or 22g?

[J_P]

I'd try some yeast vit and thorough aeration too. SteveD swears by pitching lots of yeast and from the pictures I've seen he gets good results. Personally I take some boiled and cooled wort and throw the yeast into that whilst the boil finishes and that seems to be a good way of getting the cell count up, although I'm not too sure how practical this would be making up a kit.

Why not take the belt and braces approach and aerate use the yeast vit (or boil up the muntons yeast) and pitch two sachets of yeast.

[oxford brewer]

Some people say pitch 2 11g sachets others say use only 1,I have never used 2 sachets in a brew but you wont be doing any harm pitching 2 sachets IMO
What I will tell you is,that Nottingham yeast settles really compact and takes some cleaning out from the fermenter

[J_P]

That's good to know Oxford as I bottle my beers and that is a handy trait for yeast to have in my book!

[oxford brewer]

That's good to know Oxford as I bottle my beers and that is a handy trait for yeast to have in my book!

The last brew that I bottled I could pour out all the liquid without any sediment getting in there its that tight.The bottles have been stored for 2 months which helps

[Chris The Fish]

ive actually used nottingham and find its a really safe bet for bottling for the reasons you give, and as its such a failsafe (touch wood!) yeast.

when i spoke to the guy in the LHBS he was saying that he pitches way more than 6g when he does a AG brew of the same size (5gal).

The strange thing is that the yeast is different from the one i got when i did the Wherry, ill post the exact numbers etc from the packet when i remember but its definately different codes and writing on the front. The box that it comes in also has a little yeast usage leaflet which the wherry didnt. Has Woodfordes (Muntons?) changed something? did the comments here and emails finaly ensure a change to a better yeast?

The wherry i did 5 or so months ago from a microbrewery kit so its not that long ago. Still, im thinking of pitching 22g of Nottingham at the mo so ill keep you posted to how things go.

chris





Ps. or do i use the nelsons yeast?

[J_P]

I think the general consensus was that some of the nutrients the yeast used were denatured and / or destroyed when the wort was condensed, if you add these back and aerate properly they you shouldn't have an issue.

The way I see it is that you have a trade off - is the hassle of dealing with a stuck ferment worth the flavour the original yeast adds to the beer?

I've never had a stuck ferment (touch wood) but imagine it is quite an arse on dealing with it and personally I couldn't taste the difference when I used different yeasts.

For me it's a no brainer I stress that this is simply my opinion and I could be talking utter arse here but I'd start by putting the muntons yeast in the can when you're rinsing it out and then pour boiling water on it - instant yeast nutrient . I'd then aerate the wotnots out of the wort until it wouldn't look out of place with a flake in it. I'd then rehydrate and pitch the yeast. I have had good results doing this in the past.

As for pitching 11g or 22g you're on your own there

[Sheepy]

Hi mate.
I have used sachets of Nottingham yeast from the bloke before and only used one at a time. Both times the final gravity was 1006 ish. Only thing i would say is that it seemed to take a wee bit longer to reach a stable fg than other kit yeasts but a bit more time in primary doesnt hurt.

[steve_flack]

Some people say pitch 2 11g sachets others say use only 1,I have never used 2 sachets in a brew but you wont be doing any harm pitching 2 sachets IMO

One is plenty in five gallons unless you're doing a very strong beer (1.060+). Overpitching does have downsides (though not as bad as underpitching).

[Chris The Fish]

I could be talking utter arse here but I'd start by putting the muntons yeast in the can when you're rinsing it out and then pour boiling water on it - instant yeast nutrient .

is this true? i have some suspect 'perfect pint' yeast, and some muntons tucked away somewhere, if i do as you suggest is this as good/better than using youngs yeast nutrient?


Ps. sorry its taken so long to get back to this point, the joys of shift work has seen me away from my pc.

[J_P]

I've never done a side by side comparison before but when I used the Muntons yeast as fodder the fermentation went off like a rocket and the yeast head was much bigger than normal, in fact it climbed out onto the carpet once!

[Kit_Maker]

I added some dry beer enzyme to my stuck Woodfordes Wherry and it went from .018 to .006 in four days....looks and tastes great.

I also added some to my John Bull Wheat beer which had also gotten stuck and it went from .020 to .008 within four days.

This is a cheap and effective way to reach the desired FG.