Recipe ideas for Chinook or Goldings hops or maybe both??

[Tez]

Hi guys,

I am new to a.g and would appreciate a couple of recipe ideas to use up some hops I have??

I would like ideas for a really simple recipe maybe a pale ale with a bit of colour!! I have 50g of Chinook and 75g of Goldings and am at the stage where I am still fine tuning mi gear and getting used to the method of a.g!

Any ideas much appreciated.

Cheers, T.

[seymour]

Here's a basic IPA all grain recipe, 6 US gallons = 5 imperial gallons = 22.7 liters

85% = 10 lbs = 4.5 kg, Maris Otter 2-row pale malt
6% = .7 lb = 318 g, British Crystal 50-60L
6% = .7 lb = 318 g, Dark Brown Sugar
3% = .35 lb = 159 g, Oats (flaked, rolled, quick, steel-cut, Scotch, whatever)

MASH @ 65° C

BOIL 60 minutes

.88 oz = 25g, Chinook hops, 45 minutes
.88 oz = 25g, Goldings hops, 30 minutes
.88 oz = 25g, Chinook hops, 10 minutes
1.76 oz = 50g, Goldings hops, dry hops in secondary fermentor until bottling

STATS:
OG: 1.058
ABV: 5.8
IBU: 65
COLOUR: 8°SRM/16°EBC

This should brew a really cheap, easy, strong and delicious beer. The brown sugar and quick oats come from your kitchen. If you wanna skip buying crystal malt too, just take ½ lb of your base malt, soak it and bake it to make your own (this'll give you some killer bready aromas as well.) Pinch of calcium carbonate in mash, pinch of gypsum in boil kettle. Irish moss near end of boil for clarity. Ferment with your favorite English ale yeast. A clean one like Nottingham or Whitbread-dry will emphasize the hops, a fruitier one like Windsor or Fullers will emphasize the caramelized malt and fruitiness from the brown sugar. No matter what, this is gonna be a very hoppy beer. I have a feeling this will taste like an English interpretation of Stone Arrogant Bastard.

[Tez]

Hi Seymour thanks for the swift reply!

The recipe and description you give sounds pretty tasty I am definitely going to give this a go.

Probaby a daft question but the hop schedule you give does the time refer to time into the boil when you add the particular hop and quantity?? and what would your recommendation be for priming sugar quantity??

O and dry hopping I've never done this, do I literally just chuck them in the fermenter as they are or bag them up??

Thanks again . T

[oz11]

Probaby a daft question but the hop schedule you give does the time refer to time into the boil when you add the particular hop and quantity?? and what would your recommendation be for priming sugar quantity??

Thanks again . T

Not a daft question at all. Hop timings are generally given as the time FROM the END of the boil. That way hops scheduled for 10 mins, say, are added 10 mins from the boil end. That way if you were to have a 60 min boil but I preferred a 90 min boil we both get the same contribution from the hop addition.

Hope that helps

[seymour]

Hi Seymour thanks for the swift reply!
The recipe and description you give sounds pretty tasty I am definitely going to give this a go.

Great! I can't wait to hear what you think of the resulting beer.

Probaby a daft question but the hop schedule you give does the time refer to time into the boil when you add the particular hop and quantity??

oz11 explained it correctly. I usually do a 60 minute boil. So, once it's been boiling 15 minutes, with 45 minutes left, I add the first hops. 15 minutes later, with 30 minutes left, I add the next hops, and so on. [/quote]

...and what would your recommendation be for priming sugar quantity??

It's not an exact science, and it all depends on how spritzy you like your beer, but in a 5 gallon batch, I use between 1/3 - 1/2 cup white sugar or brown sugar, boiled in a little water, cooled a bit, then dissolved into the bottling bucket. Traditional English ale is nearly still, so you could use less priming sugar if that's what you're aiming for.

...O and dry hopping I've never done this, do I literally just chuck them in the fermenter as they are or bag them up??

That's right. Just dump them in the fermenter as the active fermentation starts dying down. If you rack from a primary to secondary fermenter, that's a perfect time to dry hop. The whole purpose is to add lots of hops aroma, so we don't want to do it too early, as the CO2 will blast all your precious aromas out the airlock. I know that seems reckless since the hops haven't been sterilized, but their natural anti-fungal properties prevent any infection. Plus, even if they do host some wild yeast, the flavor profiles have been set and most sugars consumed, so the undesirables can't get a real foot-hold.
Good luck!

[far9410]

Just a quick note, if you're making this recipe, 7lb is equal to 3.27 kg

[seymour]

Just a quick note, if you're making this recipe, 7lb is equal to 3.27 kg

Dammit, how embarrassing! You're exactly right. I made several stupid errors in my imperial and metric conversions. Sorry, everyone. If you already printed my original post, it will only brew an OG 1.040 and ABV 4% brew which would be crazy hoppy. If you already purchased grains based on my miscalculations, the grainbill percentages were correct, so just reduce your water by 20% to hit the stated brew statistics.

I'm near certain the recipe is accurate now. But in light of all the confusion, feel free to check me in your favorite recipe calculation software, spreadsheets, etc...

[Tez]

Not a daft question at all. Hop timings are generally given as the time FROM the END of the boil. That way hops scheduled for 10 mins, say, are added 10 mins from the boil end. That way if you were to have a 60 min boil but I preferred a 90 min boil we both get the same contribution from the hop addition.

Hope that helps[/quote]

oz11 thanks for this, I'm glad I asked as I thought the timings were from the beginning of the boil rather than end of.. Cheers mate.


> [quote="Tez"]...and what would your recommendation be for priming sugar quantity??
> [/quote]
>
> It's not an exact science, and it all depends on how spritzy you like your beer,
> but in a 5 gallon batch, I use between 1/3 - 1/2 cup white sugar or brown sugar,
> boiled in a little water, cooled a bit, then dissolved into the bottling bucket.
> Traditional English ale is nearly still, so you could use less priming sugar if
> that's what you're aiming for.
>
> [quote="Tez"]...O and dry hopping I've never done this, do I literally just chuck
> them in the fermenter as they are or bag them up??[/quote]
>
> That's right. Just dump them in the fermenter as the active fermentation starts dying
> down. If you rack from a primary to secondary fermenter, that's a perfect time
> to dry hop. The whole purpose is to add lots of hops aroma, so we don't want to
> do it too early, as the CO2 will blast all your precious aromas out the airlock.
> I know that seems reckless since the hops haven't been sterilized, but their natural
> anti-fungal properties prevent any infection. Plus, even if they do host some wild
> yeast, the flavor profiles have been set and most sugars consumed, so the undesirables
> can't get a real foot-hold.
> Good luck!


Thanks again for all the info Seymour, I'll let you know how I get on??

Tez.

[Tez]

mi quoting seems to be a tad off??

[seymour]

...sounds pretty tasty I am definitely going to give this a go...

So, how did it go?

[weiht]

Here's a basic IPA all grain recipe, 6 US gallons = 5 imperial gallons = 22.7 liters

10 lbs ≈ 4.5 kg ≈ 85% Maris Otter 2-row pale malt
.7 lb ≈ .32 kg ≈ 6% British Crystal 50-60L
.7 lb ≈ .32 kg ≈ 6% Dark Brown Sugar
.35 lb ≈ .16 kg ≈ 3% Oats (flaked, rolled, quick, Scotch…whatever)

.88 oz = 25g Chinook hops - 45 minutes
.88 oz = 25g Goldings hops - 30 minutes
.88 oz = 25g Chinook hops - 10 minutes
1.76 oz = 50g Goldings hops – dry hop in secondary fermentor until bottling

Single temp mash ≈ 65° C

OG ≈ 1.058, ABV ≈ 5.8, IBU ≈ 65, SRM ≈ 8

This should brew a really cheap, easy, strong and delicious beer. The brown sugar and quick oats come from your kitchen. If you wanna skip buying crystal malt too, just take ½ lb of your base malt, soak it and bake it to make your own (this'll give you some killer bready aromas as well.) Pinch of calcium carbonate in mash, pinch of gypsum in boil kettle. Irish moss near end of boil for clarity. Ferment with your favorite English ale yeast. A clean one like Nottingham or Whitbread-dry will emphasize the hops, a fruitier one like Windsor or Fullers will emphasize the caramelized malt and fruitiness from the brown sugar. No matter what, this is gonna be a very hoppy beer. I have a feeling this will taste like an English interpretation of Stone Arrogant Bastard.

Any reason for calcium carbonate in mash and not gypsum or calcium chloride?

[seymour]

I recommend early calcium carbonate (chalk) because it simulates hard "Old World" limestone well-water, and it also brings-out more color in the mash stage. It boils out, though, so any negative impacts are eliminated later. I add gypsum in the boil because it really makes the hops pop-out.

Bear in mind, these are broad generalizations and the impacts will vary considerably depending on everyone's baseline. I'm no water chemist. If you have a thoughtful process worked-out, or utilize a water chemistry calculator or something, by all means stick with it.

[weiht]

makes sense on the limestone portion, altho it pushes the mash ph up. to each his own

[seymour]

... i pushes the mash ph up. to each his own

Exactly. What you're doing is authentically British, as well, in the "Burtonization" sense, right? I'd love to one day compare our resulting brown ales, for instance.

[alix101]

Chinook......arrogant bastard clone....? Mmmmmmm