Post
by Barley Water » Fri Apr 01, 2016 4:06 pm
I don't remember using WLP023 so I can't speak to that but I do have a lot of experience with WLP02 as well as some experience with WLP07. Both WLP02 and WLP07 floculate really well so you end up with really clear ales relatively quickly (which I see as a good thing). I use WLP02 on lower gravity ales because it doesn't attenuate quite as well as WLP07 but if I want to dry out a higher gravity ale (like ESB's or traditional IPA's) I'd go with the WLP07. I would also tend to use WLP07 in situations where the grist has a lot of crystal malt just to avoid having a really cloying brew (but that is primarily personal preference). Even though the ale will clear rapidly, do not be tempted to pull the fermented beer off the yeast cake too soon otherwise you will get the dreaded "butter bomb".
I have screwed around using WLP01, WLP05 and WLP07 on American IPA hop bombs and I think my strain of choice is WLP07. Attenuates well, does it's thing quickly and flocks really well. Additionally, you get a bit of "UK action" in the beer which makes for a more interesting pint. I am currently dry hopping an American IPA (with sort of a throwback, high adjunct grist) that I fermented with dry Nottingham (because my local shop was out of WLP07); it will be interesting to see how that works out. I have started to screw around with dry yeasts because sometimes I don't have it together and don't plan ahead enough to make a starter.
Drinking:Saison (in bottles), Belgian Dubbel (in bottles), Oud Bruin (in bottles), Olde Ale (in bottles),
Abbey Triple (in bottles), Munich Helles, Best Bitter (TT Landlord clone), English IPA
Conditioning: Traditional bock bier, CAP
Fermenting: Munich Dunkel
Next up: Bitter (London Pride like), ESB
So many beers to make, so little time (and cold storage space)
