Muntons Premium Gold. Works for me. You've had a couple of beers with it so far...jubby wrote:Dunno what MPG is, but no you can't![]()

ML.
Muntons Premium Gold. Works for me. You've had a couple of beers with it so far...jubby wrote:Dunno what MPG is, but no you can't![]()
Sorry Totem, your post got lost in the banter.Totem wrote:This whole thing sounds like a good idea. When is the brew planning to take place? I might be moving soon so wouldn't want to brew and have to shift it (although not a big problem) but it could become a regular-ish thing.
Splendid! I think that's fairly unany..........youn.......unani.......I think we're all agreed thenJust got round to casting my vote (I kept my self busy last week actually working for a living!); not for a Porter Jubby but an IPA![]()
Whatever you decide is good for me. ESB, IPA, dry yeast or liquid, as long as you don't restrict the amount of hops i can throw inI hope everyone will be happy with the choice or choices I make.
I'll second that; well done.Cool. Nice work Tequilla.
I'm talking boll*cks again!! Forget that ridiculous suggestion, I have taken myself outside and given myself a stiff talking to. See quote below.Just had a thoughtIf it's going to be White Shield, dare i suggest harvesting yeast from a bottle of White Shield
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It looks like Graham was right, Worthingtons were being a little economical with the truth about bottling yeast.
I contacted the head brewer regarding heavily carbonated bottles and yeast etc and this was his reply...
Your gushing problem is undoubtedly caused by the stability of the gas in the beer. Being bottle conditioned, White Shield is designed to have 3 volumes of gas (CO2) in the bottle. This is quite a lot and more than you would find in most "chilled and filtered beers". Any movement of the bottle or temperature change upwards will cause the gas to come out of solution. If the bottle is opened in this "unstable state" gushing will occur. Chilling the beer will help since cold beer will hold more gas than warm beer, and if you do this you will find a chill haze developing. This will disappear almost immediately the beer is brought back to room temperature. Far better is to keep the beer at a steady 10 to 14 degrees celcius for a few days to allow equilibration to take place (difficult if you've just brought home a few bottles from Sainsbury and have a thirst!).
As far as the yeast is concerned, the yeast you will find in the bottle is a secondary yeast that is put into the beer prior to bottling. It will be more difficult to brew with as it tends to sediment quickly, sometimes before fermentation is complete. This is quite important in a bottle conditioned beer as we want the yeast out of solution when fermentation in bottle is complete, preferably sticking to the bottom of the bottle like glue. Our primary yeast is quite different and is a mixture of two strains.
The problem with multi strain yeasts is that they change their relative ratios the more they are re-pitched consequently they have to be re-cultured after every 5 brews.
Your fermentation temperature look about right. 16C is a good starting temperature and a rise to 20C, holding at 20C until the gravity has reached where you want it.
In terms of residual gravity before bottling, the beer will have 1 vol of gas in after fermentation, consequently a further 2 vols need to be generated. 1 degree of gravity will produce 0.4 vols of gas therefore to produce 2 extra volumes (on top of the 1 volume already in the beer) i.e 5 degrees of fermentable residue..
Blending one brew on top of another will have no significant effect on fermentation but is merely done to ensure consistency of product.
As you can see, the high gas content of White Shield does have its problems but it does add to the overall taste of the beer and, since it is produced naturally from fermentation, it is not overly aggressive. Worth a bit of patience I would venture to suggest!!
Sounds like the bottling yeast is a White Shield strain (perhaps cultured from the original ?) but not the primary strain.