I though this might be of interest for those brewing American APA's and IPA's by by Vinnie Cilurzo
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3093/260 ... f024_o.jpg
10 factors in making Hoppy (american) beers
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steve_flack
3 does seem to disagree with his other points. Having made an American IPA that finished a bit sweet, I think the key to them is to finish dry and 1.012 is probably in the right ballpark from what I've seen. He's probably right about the crystal too. 5% of regular crystal in an APA seems a bit too much to me - maybe less or a lighter grade would be better.
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oblivious
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Barley Water
- Under the Table
- Posts: 1429
- Joined: Tue May 22, 2007 8:35 pm
- Location: Dallas, Texas
Ok, I am going to ask a stupid question here but first my disclaimer: I rarely brew American IPAs and certainly not double American IPAs, I think that excess hops just hides the malty goodness, but that is just my opinion. Also, I much prefer English MO to American two row and I sure don't want to go to the trouble of using MO and then just cover it up.
Now for the dumb question, if you mash hot, everything else being equal, you get more dextrins. The higher the dextrin level, the higher the terminal gravity since they don't ferment (at least not by ale yeast). My understanding though is that dextrins basicly have no taste, they just elevate the body of the beer, is that not right? When adding dextrin malt to say a Munich Helles, I am trying to increase the body, not make the beer sweet, have I been laboring under a false assumption all these years?
I thought that Vinnie's commandments were interesting however. I always assumed that a sweeter beer could support a much higher level of hopping but I guess that is not the case with good IPA's. Of course this whole subject is moot anyway since it's getting hard to find any of the three C's around here.
Now for the dumb question, if you mash hot, everything else being equal, you get more dextrins. The higher the dextrin level, the higher the terminal gravity since they don't ferment (at least not by ale yeast). My understanding though is that dextrins basicly have no taste, they just elevate the body of the beer, is that not right? When adding dextrin malt to say a Munich Helles, I am trying to increase the body, not make the beer sweet, have I been laboring under a false assumption all these years?
I thought that Vinnie's commandments were interesting however. I always assumed that a sweeter beer could support a much higher level of hopping but I guess that is not the case with good IPA's. Of course this whole subject is moot anyway since it's getting hard to find any of the three C's around here.
Drinking:Saison (in bottles), Belgian Dubbel (in bottles), Oud Bruin (in bottles), Olde Ale (in bottles),
Abbey Triple (in bottles), Munich Helles, Best Bitter (TT Landlord clone), English IPA
Conditioning: Traditional bock bier, CAP
Fermenting: Munich Dunkel
Next up: Bitter (London Pride like), ESB
So many beers to make, so little time (and cold storage space)
Abbey Triple (in bottles), Munich Helles, Best Bitter (TT Landlord clone), English IPA
Conditioning: Traditional bock bier, CAP
Fermenting: Munich Dunkel
Next up: Bitter (London Pride like), ESB
So many beers to make, so little time (and cold storage space)
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mysterio
](./images/smilies/eusa_wall.gif "Brick wall"){kind=small}
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orable
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Trough Lolly
+1...Whorst wrote:What a bunch of crap. Use 05 and hop the shit out of it. It's not rocket science.
I don't recommend using Dextrin malt in many beers - and a crisp well hopped APA will suffer if you toss that stuff in the mashtun. At least one of my kegs always has a Sierra Nevada Pale Ale attempt in it at all times...Well chosen and uber fresh hops are what make the difference - so many times I see brewers make up a great recipe and then put $hitty old hops and 12 months old grain in and wonder why the beer doesn't taste like it should.
The recipe if you're interested - is here...
Cheers,
TL
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Whorst
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Trough Lolly
Late secondary is better IMHO - adding it at flameout means you lose some of the aroma out of the airlock during the active fermentation in primary.Whorst wrote:I'd add some to the secondary. Anchor Liberty has a pretty strong hop aroma. You could also chuck some in at flame out to achieve the same thing.
Cheers,
TL
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Trough Lolly
Adding hops to the wort at flame-out is great if you want to reduce, but not eliminate, the risk of infection. But you'll still lose some of the volatile aroma and flavour compounds when you transfer the wort to the fermenter and the yeast pushes out CO2 as it attenuates the sugars in the wort.
For those of us who try to strain the wort before racking out of the kettle, it means that the late hop addition at flame-out has a contact time with the wort of minutes whereas an aroma/flavour addition in the fermenter has hours/days of exposure to impart it's compounds and improve the final product.
I won't say that flameout additions are useless - they aren't - but my experience with late additions indicates that dry hopping in primary (with the right hops - some can give off grassy notes) is a more efficient and effective use of hops after the boil.
Cheers,
TL
For those of us who try to strain the wort before racking out of the kettle, it means that the late hop addition at flame-out has a contact time with the wort of minutes whereas an aroma/flavour addition in the fermenter has hours/days of exposure to impart it's compounds and improve the final product.
I won't say that flameout additions are useless - they aren't - but my experience with late additions indicates that dry hopping in primary (with the right hops - some can give off grassy notes) is a more efficient and effective use of hops after the boil.
Cheers,
TL