IPA suggestions

[Deebee]

I have had a look through my kegs and bottles and it would seem that i have the best part of 70 liters storeage place for beer.

So i am thinking that i have the chance to always have a fair selection on the go.

I am considering making a short 10 litre batch of a nice IPA with lots of hops and safeale 05 that can be made and then left in a small corny until drinking time. In addition i will fill the remaining kegs and bottles with a selection of beers.

We have a christening in the summer so this would be the ideal thing to do, outside in the fresh air with medium strength Ale and a nice hoppy strong IPA.

So... i am after something around the 5,5% mark ( or maybe a little more) that is deceptive and does not taste its strength.

I would like it to sit in the corny for about 8 months-10 weeks after it has finished fermenting, maybe even longer.


I have fuggles, target ,styrian goldings bobek, Goldings, cascade, northdown, challenger, libery and glacier available.

I have pale malt, carapils, torri wheat, light and dark crystal, black and choclate available.
a brew length of 10 litres is the aim based on 75%

Thanks



thoughts please
'

[Whorst]

Pale malt, tad of light crystal, tad of wheat. If it were me, I'd use Challenger & Cascade. Challenger for bittering, Cascade for a late addition.
Dry hop with Styrians and EKG for a week in primary, after 95% of fermentation ceases.

[quiff]

I like the sound of Whorsts suggestion. My only variation would be to use Liberty with the cascade as the late hops. Just to add that summertime citrussy thingymejig....
mmm sounds lovely

[jubby]

I like the sound of Whorsts suggestion. My only variation would be to use Liberty with the cascade as the late hops. Just to add that summertime citrussy thingymejig....
mmm sounds lovely

Pale malt, tad of light crystal, tad of wheat. If it were me, I'd use Challenger & Cascade. Challenger for bittering, Cascade for a late addition.
Dry hop with Styrians and EKG for a week in primary, after 95% of fermentation ceases.

Both fine suggestions but if you want a traditional IPA, look no further than Fuggles, Goldings and a load of pale malt brewed to 6%+ and 80+ IBU. Lots of recipes in the Durden Park book.

[Deebee]

SOunds good.

There was a typo in the first post. I was hoping to have it in kegs for 8-10 weeks... not months!

Theoretically i can brew this in late january and leave it through to the summer.

Is 80 IBU an ok amount?

Does anyone have an exact recipe that would suit 12 weeks or more storage but that would be ready then?

I don't have that book unfortunately.

i am ordering malt and stuff next week, so would like to have this in the order.... They don't send after mid December so i need to make sure i have what i need.

If someone would be so kind i would be really Thanksful.

Any recipe experts??

[jubby]

Ah, 8 to 10 weeks changes things

This is a quick drinking IPA, mature for 2 to 3 months:

To make 1 imperial gallon- 1.3kg pale malt. 26g Fuggles, whole boil. Stiff mash (i used 2kg per litre) at 66C. The recipes mash for 3 hours and mash out at 77C for 30 mins before sparging, but i don't know how important that is. I mashed at 66 for 2 hours then mashed out at 76 for 30 mins. I don't think it would make much difference to use your normal process.

You could use Goldings and you could add some hops to steep if you wanted.

[Deebee]

excuse me of not understanding but what do you mean by MASH out at 77 for 30 minutes???

Hmmmmm

[jubby]

'Mash out' is to raise the temperature of the mash at the end. To quote Palmer:

What is Mashout?

Before the sweet wort is drained from the mash and the grain is rinsed (sparged) of the residual sugars, many brewers perform a mashout. Mashout is the term for raising the temperature of the mash to 170°F prior to lautering. This step stops all of the enzyme action (preserving your fermentable sugar profile) and makes the grainbed and wort more fluid. For most mashes with a ratio of 1.5-2 quarts of water per pound of grain, the mashout is not needed. The grainbed will be loose enough to flow well. For a thicker mash, or a mash composed of more than 25% of wheat or oats, a mashout may be needed to prevent a Set Mash/Stuck Sparge. This is when the grain bed plugs up and no liquid will flow through it. A mashout helps prevent this by making the sugars more fluid; like the difference between warm and cold honey. The mashout step can be done using external heat or by adding hot water according to the multi-rest infusion calculations. (See chapter 16.) A lot of homebrewers tend to skip the mashout step for most mashes with no consequences.

Just remove about 3-4 litres of wort from the mash tun, boil, return to the tun and stir. That should bring the temp up to around 77C for a 23 litre batch.