Deuchars IPA?

[flytact]

Des,
My last batch brewed on Feb.3
Racked to corny with priming sugar on Feb. 13
Connected to beer engine on Mar. 1 (let it go for a while because of cold basement)
Tasted great, gone on March 17

Could probably go less in the keg if you have a warmer room. No real need to mellow out any of the hops.

Get brewing.

[deadlydes]

cheers fly
what recipe did you use (i couldnt see in the thread only that you did one with and one with crystal) including IBU's?
cheers
Des

[flytact]

10 lbs Golden Promise (3.0 SRM) Grain 100.0 %
0.50 oz Super Styrian [5.00%] (60 min) Hops 8.6 IBU
0.50 oz Fuggles [4.50%] (60 min) Hops 7.0 IBU
0.50 oz Williamette [5.50%] (15 min) Hops 4.7 IBU
0.50 oz Styrian Goldings [5.40%] (5 min) Hops 1.8 IBU
0.50 oz Fuggles [4.50%] (5 min) Hops 1.4 IBU
0.28 tsp Irish Moss (Boil 15.0 min) Misc
1 Pkgs SafAle English Ale (DCL Yeast #S-04) Yeast-Ale

mashed at 154.
I had no Super Styrian so I did some research and substituted. Can't remember and didn't write it down.

But I did get my original from this forum.

[Andy]

Can't remember and didn't write it down.

Go to the back of the class

[deadlydes]

thanks

[flytact]

Can't remember and didn't write it down.

Go to the back of the class

Horrible I know, I'm usually a very good note taker. I even have a binder for notes. This was brewed a week before we moved into our new house and it was all I could do to keep things out of boxes long enough to brew.

Besides, can't you get away with more from the back of the class?

[mysterio]

just out of curiosity how long would something like this need to be matured for?
i had a pint of this over the weekend and i must say it was great.
i had a couple of IPA's over the weekend and its inspired me to brew one!
cheers
Des

I'm brewing this tommorow and I plan to let it go in the primary for a week, secondary for two weeks then straight to the keg and start drinking. The low gravity means it needs less time, usually.

[onlooker]

With a good flocciing yeast you can push her into service quicker than that. I have been known to brew 1048 bitters on a thursday and be drinking them the next thursday, tasting great. hehe Goes against much Homebrew wisdom tho.

Im my opinion fresh is best with Running beers, particulary the paler ones.

[mysterio]

I pulled this through the beer engine tonight, AFAIC it's spot on for Deuchars as far as the aroma, flavour & mouthfeel goes. However it's way too pale, this is a pale straw colour where Deuchars is a bit more on the orange side. Not a problem though, this is a really excellent beer. The styrian goldings really come through, I ended up steeping 120g at the end instead of the 100 I posted in the recipe. This will definately be getting brewed again, maybe with a touch of crystal.

[ADDLED]

Yeah, it's very much a Scottish thing to pronounce 'ch' like you're hawking up some phlegm

Ask a Liverpudlian to say "Kentucky Fried Chicken".

[RabMaxwell]

I pulled this through the beer engine tonight, AFAIC it's spot on for Deuchars as far as the aroma, flavour & mouthfeel goes. However it's way too pale, this is a pale straw colour where Deuchars is a bit more on the orange side. Not a problem though, this is a really excellent beer. The styrian goldings really come through, I ended up steeping 120g at the end instead of the 100 I posted in the recipe. This will definately be getting brewed again, maybe with a touch of crystal.

What about carmelizing some of the first runnings instead of the crystal should also cause some darkening

[macleanb]

Had a fair few of these just recently at the Caledonian Brewery Tap Room and luverly it was too, I often have some of the bottled, but had never tried the "real thing", bleedin loverly it was.

As far as the memory serves me there was no orange tone at all, it was a pale as you like, as an earlier post put it, lager coloured....

[Barley Water]

Mysterio, I noticed you mentioned getting a beer engine soon. I am very interested in doing this also as it would be quite novel over here in Texas. I am doing more and more low gravity British ales which I have always really enjoyed and I thought that serving them correctly would really be great (I am using a standard CO2 tap system now which of course is great for German/Belgian and American beers). I found this website http://biohazard.veriqikdsl.com/page15.html which discusses a set up to mimic what you folks are doing over there. I thought that this made alot of sense. I would appreciate you guys taking a look at this and giving me your input since I have never tried it or tasted ales served like this. I was especially interested in the discussion of letting a little air into the keg when pulling off the first couple of pints. I recognize that I may be getting a big argument started concerning the "Southern" versus the "Northern" pour but what the hell, I might learn something reading your responses.

[mysterio]

BW, yeah i've had my Angram beer engine for a while now. A quick search of the forum for 'beer engine' and especially 'check valve' or 'cask breather' will point you in the direction of pictures which will be able to show user's various set-ups. You need either a check valve or a cask breather along with your beer engine if you're going to be using extraneous CO2... and unless you're taking it to a party or you know it will be finished in a few days, you probably will need to use your CO2 setup. Letting air into the keg will change the character of the beer over a couple of days, but it will turn into vinegar within a week. If you know you're going to finish it, then it's worth trying so you can see for yourself whether there's any difference.

The guy in the link has a good idea of what he's doing IMO, although i'm sure many on here would disagree about the headless 'southern pour' being a monstrosity! Sparklers shouldn't be necessary either if the beer is in condition, i.e. carbonated correctly. The agitation of the pour should form a natural head. Sparkers can tend to strip hop character out of the beer - hence, 'northern' beers tend to be less hop-focused.

Briefly, the difference between a cask breather and a check valve... The cask breather goes inline between your CO2 and keg, and replaces displaced beer with CO2, in other words 'blanket pressure', rather than top pressure which you use for your carbonated beers. A check valve (which is what I use) allows you to put your normal top pressure on the beer, but only lets the beer out when you pull your beer engine.

For cask-conditioned ale, I tend to use a good floccing British yeast like WLP002, use finings in the primary or in the keg, and add a little sugar to the keg for naturally carb. Leave at room temps for a couple of days, vent the keg, then drop the temp to 12C until you decide it's ready. The temperature isn't just an arbitrary figure, it tends to keep just the right amount of carbonation in solution once the keg is vented. Beers like this also taste better as they warm up in the glass. Remember to shorten your dip-tube.

Edit - I just noticed they're letting air in, and then using CO2 for the remainder of the keg. I've never tried that method, let us know how you get on.

[stevezx7r]

The way I use my beer engine is to draw some from my budget pressure barrel into a 15 litre plastic water carrier (forgot the name, but they collapse around the beer). You don't need a check valve etc due the collapsing of the container Simply attatch the hand pump to the water carrier via some pvc hose and away you go.