My baby burco 6 gallon boiler has arrived
Its not dirty inside just discoloured. How should i clean this - it says on the boiler not to clean it with soda. Just fill it to the brim with water and boil it?
Tea Urn has arrived...........now to cleaning it
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monkey_doctor
Tea Urn has arrived...........now to cleaning it
Hey guys,
My baby burco 6 gallon boiler has arrived
Its not dirty inside just discoloured. How should i clean this - it says on the boiler not to clean it with soda. Just fill it to the brim with water and boil it?
My baby burco 6 gallon boiler has arrived
Its not dirty inside just discoloured. How should i clean this - it says on the boiler not to clean it with soda. Just fill it to the brim with water and boil it?
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Seveneer
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monkey_doctor
Yeah, its not very dirty, suppose its just discoloured through wear 'n' tear.
I didnt realise it had a covered element when i bought it (from ebay). My friend has one, which is identical, apart from the fact this is element is bare.
I had intended to use it as a mash tun with a grain bag. I will probably still use it as a mash tun but i would like to use it without a grain bag - any ideas how to place a piece of mesh or something over the tap inlet to keep the 'bits' from going into my boiler (50L stainless steel stock pot - to which im going to fit a tap)
I didnt realise it had a covered element when i bought it (from ebay). My friend has one, which is identical, apart from the fact this is element is bare.
I had intended to use it as a mash tun with a grain bag. I will probably still use it as a mash tun but i would like to use it without a grain bag - any ideas how to place a piece of mesh or something over the tap inlet to keep the 'bits' from going into my boiler (50L stainless steel stock pot - to which im going to fit a tap)
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Seveneer
What you want is one of these....
You may have to change the tap on your mash tun though. I use a 22mm, no stop, Essex Flange
on mine. It's good for mashing temps but I wouldn't want to use one on a boiler due to the rubber seal.
The manifold has slots cut on the underside every centimetre or so. It allows enough wort through the tap without taking any of the grain with it.
You may have to change the tap on your mash tun though. I use a 22mm, no stop, Essex Flange
on mine. It's good for mashing temps but I wouldn't want to use one on a boiler due to the rubber seal.The manifold has slots cut on the underside every centimetre or so. It allows enough wort through the tap without taking any of the grain with it.
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monkey_doctor
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Seveneer
Dead simple. I just cut the tube to the right lengths and soldered it all together. The central "T" isn't soldered as I need a little "give" to connect it to the tube that runs to the tap. The hardest part is cutting the slots. Don't even think about a hack saw. It would take too long. I used a Dremel with a cut-off wheel but a band saw is the ideal tool.
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Seveneer
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Seveneer
I must be a weakling thenDaaB wrote:I quite literaly tore through mine with a brand new fine tooth blade, its handy to have a B&D work-mate or vice with v shaped channels in the jaws to grip the pipe though. The hardest part was not to get to carried away and chop the thing in two
. The Dremel was very easy though 
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eskimobob
I've just made myself another one of these tonight actually. Took me about 45 minutes. Now I have two, one for the mash tun and one for the boiler so I don't have to swap it over during a brew session.Seveneer wrote:I just cut the tube to the right lengths and soldered it all together.
I personally don't solder it together because I like to dismantle it to clean thoroughly. If you find that it is a little lose fitting when you put it together you can simply squash the copper fittings slightly to make the tube a snug fit.
If you do solder it then be sure to use lead free solder
