Connecting up a kettle element

[dean_wales]

Hello,

I have made myself a HLT from a Youngs 5 Gallon plastic fermenter with two kettle elements from Wilkinsons value kettles.

All was OK in the butchering and mounting part. Now I come to test it. I purchased a proper kettle lead thinking that it would nice and simple and just push/plug onto the three terminals like old kettles used to? It doesnt!!!!

The lead and pins dont quite match up, the lead just falls off. How are you meant to connect the power to these DIY boilers? Do I have to cut and solder or what?

Thanks,

Dean.

[196osh]

The lead should just push on. Could you post a picture of the lead/element so as to give us a better idea of what is up?

[dean_wales]

At work but will try and do some pics later or tommrow.

The elements are from Wilkinson's value kettles and the lead is a proper kettle one with a notch from £Stretcher.

I have tried quite firmly pushing it on and its a no go??

Anyone here used the wilko's elements and can advise?

Dean.

[themadhippy]

you need to cut a few mm off the socket on the kettle lead

[nobby]

you need to cut a few mm off the socket on the kettle lead

H&S at work, not. It's bad enough using kettle elements now your recommending cutting the kettle lead. Some one is going to get killed by all this bodging. Use proper elements. Also the admin on this site is letting people give this advice.

[Shadowknight]

Why not use the leads that came with the kettles you butchered?

[leewink]

I find it a lot less hassle to just buy proper elements to start, I would not suggest cutting and "bodging" if you like, but when electricals etc are involved - I wouldn't go cheap or "bodge".

It's your choice at the end of the day, but I value my life and "non-electrical" ignorance, for the sake of 20 quid for a "proper" one ? I know my personal choice.

edit - Also, i have a 180 quid modded stainless boiler, instead of plastic for my safety, its the one area I or anyone shouldnt give advice like "cut the cord" down.

[sparky Paul]

As nobby says, hacking cables down to fit is not the answer. The problem with some of liberated cordless kettle elements is that the pins are short - they are not designed for attaching kettle leads to. If cutting a few mm off the end of the plug makes the difference between a connection and no connection, you have to bear in mind that there will only be minimal engagement between the pins and the contact surface in the plug - far from ideal, and potentially hazardous.

Soldering is not an option either, soldering directly to heater elements is not recommended. Personally, I would favour a mechanical connection using ceramic or bare terminal connectors, and make sure the back of the element is securely enclosed, and as splash resistant as possible.

I'm not going to say that nobody should have a go at this unless they are qualified to do so, but I would advise that anyone undertaking these electrical builds should be confident they know what they are doing. If in any doubt, get some proper advice and at least let somebody check that the finished item is safe.

Better still, use the 2.75kW Backer elements and leads which are straightforward to use, and much better suited to the job.

[Kev888]

and also theres a 2.4kw version of the backer elements now, that 'properly' takes the IEC hot-condition kettle leads - e.g here

Cheers
kev

[sparky Paul]

and also theres a 2.4kw version of the backer elements now, that 'properly' takes the IEC hot-condition kettle leads - e.g here

Even better... no more tracking down round kettle leads!

[196osh]

I have used 6 kettle elements for various brewing things and the leads all fit great and are very tighr. If they do not fit properlly and snuggly then i wouldnt use them, but as they do apart from apperences sake an element is an element.

[themadhippy]

some call it a bodge,others like me call it modifying a component to make it suitable.cutting a few mm of the socket allows the entire length of the pins on the element to make a full contact with the socket.After numerous uses,neither of my elements are showing any sign of arcing,nor have i heard any arcing.

[sparky Paul]

some call it a bodge,others like me call it modifying a component to make it suitable.cutting a few mm of the socket allows the entire length of the pins on the element to make a full contact with the socket.After numerous uses,neither of my elements are showing any sign of arcing,nor have i heard any arcing.

I don't want to get into an argument, but cutting a few mm off the socket to make the contact may not allow the pins to make a full contact. If cutting say 2mm from the end of the plug makes a contact when it didn't before, then less than 2mm of the pin will be engaged in the contact. Reducing the contact area rating risks overheating at high load, particularly once the contacts get worn or tired, and you will probably not hear any arcing until the contacts are damaged.

The contacts in female plugs are well recessed for a reason, and whilst carving 5-6mm off the end of the plug will allow full contact, it compromises this protection against shock. A toddler died recently because an electrician left a length of bare ended flex lying around with a 13A plug attached... the child plugged the cable into a wall socket, and well, you can guess the rest. Whilst I'm sure you would have the good sense not leave a cable lying around with exposed (or almost exposed) conductors, someone else following your advice might not realise the possible implications of doing the same.

There is another issue with some of the short pinned elements. Some do not have the longer earth pin, I would not use these with a kettle lead under any circumstances. If the contacts are not fully enagaged, the earth could become disconnected without you knowing. The long pin ensures that the earth is always the last to disconnect.

I'm not over keen on the use of liberated kettle elements, but they can be used perfectly safely with a little care. However, my advice to those who are not 100% certain what they are doing has to be to use the correct components in the first place.

Just my two penn'orth.

[nobby]

I am surprised that the Forum Admin allows posts like this because at the end of the day they could well end up liable for any accident that happen. Don't scoff at this because in our litigious society disclaimers don't me anything.

I have 2 friends who are Forum Moderators on a vehicle forum I use. Any posts regarding advice about repairing or modifying of vehicles are looked over by an Moderator who is a qualified mechanic. If the advice is incorrect its deleted because the forum owners could be liable under UK Law.

[themadhippy]

For the record nobby im a fully qualified sparks,with both the latest regs ticket,and inspection and testing ticket,i dont deal with domestic electrics any more ,but can often be found playing with 100KVA and above 3 phase temporary supplies,often outdoors and from multiple synced genarator sets .Any advice i give i would accept as perfectly safe and in accordance with either BS7671 or BS7909.In this instance removing a few mm from the body of the connector results in a secure electrically safe connection,and as long as you dont expose the inner metal contacts on the socket will still pass the relavent BS finger test.