would this be STOOPID- an electrical question.

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24/7

Re: would this be STOOPID- an electrical question.

Post by 24/7 » Thu Jul 24, 2014 10:46 am

You could always use a generator. ?

cheers
steve

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Re: would this be STOOPID- an electrical question.

Post by Dr. Dextrin » Thu Jul 24, 2014 11:11 am

Jim wrote:I hate part P with a passion.

I was an electrical engineer and worked for about 15 years in a high voltage/high current testing lab - I also have and OND in electrical engineering and a degree. Despite that, I am not allowed to wire my own f***ing shed up! :evil:
Possibly you need to take another look at up-to-date Part P documentation.

The electricians made a lot of noise to make sure you noticed when Part P was introduced, but were a lot quieter when it got revised more recently to cover many fewer things. If I recall correctly, wiring up a shed or other outbuilding is no longer notifiable (which means no-one has to sign it off) unless there's a swimming pool or sauna in it.

Also work in kitchens and certain work in bathrooms is no longer notifiable (except around baths/showers, etc.).

You need to read the Part P Approved Document for the details, but it's all a lot simpler and less restrictive than it used to be.

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Re: would this be STOOPID- an electrical question.

Post by Jim » Thu Jul 24, 2014 11:29 am

Dr. Dextrin wrote:
Jim wrote:I hate part P with a passion.

I was an electrical engineer and worked for about 15 years in a high voltage/high current testing lab - I also have and OND in electrical engineering and a degree. Despite that, I am not allowed to wire my own f***ing shed up! :evil:
Possibly you need to take another look at up-to-date Part P documentation.

The electricians made a lot of noise to make sure you noticed when Part P was introduced, but were a lot quieter when it got revised more recently to cover many fewer things. If I recall correctly, wiring up a shed or other outbuilding is no longer notifiable (which means no-one has to sign it off) unless there's a swimming pool or sauna in it.

Also work in kitchens and certain work in bathrooms is no longer notifiable (except around baths/showers, etc.).

You need to read the Part P Approved Document for the details, but it's all a lot simpler and less restrictive than it used to be.
Interesting! I'll certainly be checking that out.
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Re: would this be STOOPID- an electrical question.

Post by themadhippy » Thu Jul 24, 2014 12:37 pm

Compedent person dont apply to part p,you need to do the course and be registered by the cartel.Anything classed by the 17th ediion regs as a "special location" in a domestic enviroment comes under part p,so if your shed is for hortecultor or keeping livestock part p aplies,if its for making beer then as long as you aint got a shower or bath in there you should be exempt.However you still need to ensure the instalation complies with the 17th edition,even though they aint statutory working to the regs ensures your complying with the statutory electrical supplies act and give you a better chance in court if thing do go wrong,also theird less chance of your houdehold insurarors being able to get out of paying a claim for an accident that has nothing to do with your shed suplly
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Re: would this be STOOPID- an electrical question.

Post by Jim » Thu Jul 24, 2014 12:49 pm

I've just been attempting to wade through the 2013 version of the regs, and as far as I can see, a new circuit installation to a shed (providing it is connected to a domestic supply installation) is STILL covered by full part P certification: -
2.2 Part P applies to electrical installations:
a. in a dwelling-house or flat, and to parts of the installation that are:
(i) outside the dwelling – for example fixed lighting and air conditioning units attached to
outside walls, photovoltaic panels on roofs, and fixed lighting and pond pumps in gardens
(ii) in outbuildings such as sheds, detached garages and domestic greenhouses.
12. —(6A) A person intending to carry out building work in relation to which Part P of Schedule 1 imposes a requirement is required to give a building notice or deposit full plans where the work consists of—
(a) the installation of a new circuit;
(b) the replacement of a consumer unit; or
(c) any addition or alteration to existing circuits in a special location.
And then the clincher:-
NOTE: Schedule 2 to the Building Regulations identifies buildings – for example unoccupied, agricultural, temporary and small detached buildings – that are generally exempt from the requirements of the Regulations. However, conservatories, porches, domestic greenhouses, garages and sheds that share their electricity with a dwelling are not exempt from Part P (by virtue of regulation 9(3)) and must comply with its requirements.
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Re: would this be STOOPID- an electrical question.

Post by jamesb » Thu Jul 24, 2014 11:45 pm

Fil wrote: e--brewer, the voltage drop is 4 to 6v i measure 244 at the house, and 240/238 at the brewshed. not ideal but livable with.
That's not the voltage drop. Voltage drop is dependant on the current drawn and the resistance of the cable. V = I * (R^2)
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Re: would this be STOOPID- an electrical question.

Post by Fil » Fri Jul 25, 2014 12:58 pm

jamesb wrote:
Fil wrote: e--brewer, the voltage drop is 4 to 6v i measure 244 at the house, and 240/238 at the brewshed. not ideal but livable with.
That's not the voltage drop. Voltage drop is dependant on the current drawn and the resistance of the cable. V = I * (R^2)

OK- er?

I was advised that the long extention leads would be ok to use as long as the voltage drop was under a certain percentage (got it scribbled down somewhere 7%?,11%?..) George my tame sparky left it at that perhaps assuming i understood what voltage drop is and its apparent i dont.. DUH!!

so to determine my voltage drop at max usage, do I
1) measure the resistance along and back the live/neutral lengths for R
and determine a value for X= 13(R squared) ??



tia..

during the first use i was ultra vigilant checking the leads for excess heat build up throughout the brew, and was happy with the opperation.
ist update for months n months..
Fermnting: not a lot..
Conditioning: nowt
Maturing: Challenger smash, and a kit lager
Drinking: dry one minikeg left in the store
Coming Soon Lots planned for the near future nowt for the immediate :(

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Re: would this be STOOPID- an electrical question.

Post by themadhippy » Fri Jul 25, 2014 1:16 pm

Easiest way to get your voltage drop is to look up the mv/A/M value in the regs and multiply it by the current draw and cable length then divide the answer by 1000 and youve got the volt drop .you could start playing with the resitivaty value for copper but that gets confusing as the numbers are a bit on the small side.measuring the voltage at the end without the load will give a false reading,as will trying to measure the cables impedance with a multimeter.
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Re: would this be STOOPID- an electrical question.

Post by Fil » Fri Jul 25, 2014 10:26 pm

themadhippy wrote:Easiest way to get your voltage drop is to look up the mv/A/M value in the regs and multiply it by the current draw and cable length then divide the answer by 1000 and youve got the volt drop .you could start playing with the resitivaty value for copper but that gets confusing as the numbers are a bit on the small side.measuring the voltage at the end without the load will give a false reading,as will trying to measure the cables impedance with a multimeter.

so 18 x 30 (meters) x 13(amps) = 7.02 for the long cable under maximum load,
so less than a 3% drop.. phew... Cheers...

the figure 18 was looked up for a single phase 2.5mm sq flex 2 core, (3 core with earth?)
2nd table here?
http://www.csecables.com/technical-tabl ... culations/
ist update for months n months..
Fermnting: not a lot..
Conditioning: nowt
Maturing: Challenger smash, and a kit lager
Drinking: dry one minikeg left in the store
Coming Soon Lots planned for the near future nowt for the immediate :(

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