making a boiler from copper tank
well thats the top cut off, the old immersion element (took some force !) out, thouroughly scrubbed out and the bottom bashed down to make a conical/domed bottom ready to install the bottom drain.RatAle wrote:Alternatively, you could use the bottom tank as a large HLT, the immersion is already there and I assume the two blacking nuts lead to a large coil heat exchanger, ideal for a RIMS system, if you like that sort of thing
It all went better than I hoped - used an old car tyre to support the tank as I carefully knocked the bottom into shape. just filled it with some water to check for leaks before I do the next stage.
One handy aspect that came about when knocking the bottom down was the formation of a small lip (will ad some pictures)) around the circumference which I will use to support my hop strainer/boiler screen above the sump.
Unfortunately those backing nuts were blanks - nothing inside other than the element.
so - I have a perfectly decent boss for element number 1 but I will need to make a hole for element number 2 through pretty thin copper. I am thinking of clamping the new element in some oversized brass washers of a decent thickness to add to the strength at that point - any thoughts?
one other thing. I have left it in for now but there is a copper pipe which goes from the top of the tank pretty much the whole way down to the bottom. I am thinking this might be a decent place to fill the boiler from the mash tun or shall I chop it off?
pictures to follow...
- Aleman
- It's definitely Lock In Time
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- Location: Mashing In Blackpool, Lancashire, UK
My Thought is to solder in another boss, brass to copper is pretty simple to do and just needs a propane torch to melt the solder (lead free of coursebuzzrtbi wrote:I have a perfectly decent boss for element number 1 but I will need to make a hole for element number 2 through pretty thin copper. I am thinking of clamping the new element in some oversized brass washers of a decent thickness to add to the strength at that point - any thoughts?

can you buy immersion bosses?Aleman wrote:My Thought is to solder in another boss, brass to copper is pretty simple to do and just needs a propane torch to melt the solder (lead free of coursebuzzrtbi wrote:I have a perfectly decent boss for element number 1 but I will need to make a hole for element number 2 through pretty thin copper. I am thinking of clamping the new element in some oversized brass washers of a decent thickness to add to the strength at that point - any thoughts?) Then fitting the element is a doddle.
- Aleman
- It's definitely Lock In Time
- Posts: 6132
- Joined: Sun Jun 03, 2007 11:56 am
- Location: Mashing In Blackpool, Lancashire, UK
BES do one Part no 6912 at the bottom of the page . . . I suspect its the same one that people are trying to fit into the stainless pots by screwing against teh ehater itself.
So I have scrubbed away at the copper and got the bottom quarter back to nice copper metal but it took some elbow grease, some wire wool and a wire brush! will the copper go dull again when it oxidises?MDE wrote:I have modified copper hot water tanks on a number of occasions and they make fine brewing vessels - either right way up or inverted (on a stand) depending on where you want the outlets, heaters etc. and what shaped bottom you want. If they've got a bit of scale, then use Fernox DS3 (carefully!). If the scale is bad then chuck it (or use it as a HLT, at a pinch). After several years use, they may start to leak at the weak points, but what the heck, they usually cost nothing to start with.
what does the Fernox DS3 do? is it some sort of acid or is it a rust inhibitor?
well !! after scrubbing like mad and trying all manner of things to get the copper looking "copper like" (tried flux, fernox, wire brush, lemon juice, vinegar) - it is now looking fine indeed !!
now I have a dilemma. yes I know I should have done this first but I was on a mission......
I took a 10 litre watering can and started to work out what the volume of this was. after 35 litres I was just covering the boss for the immersion element. and 80 litres I still had plenty of head room.
Great if I want to make a large brew but sometimes I only want to make 50 pints or so in which case the damn thing is too big given the volume to cover the element boss. My mash tun will struggle to do too much in one go....
So - do I blank off the boss and move the position of the 2 elements down a couple of inches or so? There is plenty of space to do this and is my ideal preference subject to finding something to fill the hole (can you get a blanking plate for this?)
do I give up after spending all this time frigging about cleaning and cutting it (i have even built the bottom tap assembly and boiler screen !!!
do I go back to plan A and build my new boiler from a beer keg?
coem on guys I need inspiration....


now I have a dilemma. yes I know I should have done this first but I was on a mission......

I took a 10 litre watering can and started to work out what the volume of this was. after 35 litres I was just covering the boss for the immersion element. and 80 litres I still had plenty of head room.
Great if I want to make a large brew but sometimes I only want to make 50 pints or so in which case the damn thing is too big given the volume to cover the element boss. My mash tun will struggle to do too much in one go....
So - do I blank off the boss and move the position of the 2 elements down a couple of inches or so? There is plenty of space to do this and is my ideal preference subject to finding something to fill the hole (can you get a blanking plate for this?)
do I give up after spending all this time frigging about cleaning and cutting it (i have even built the bottom tap assembly and boiler screen !!!

do I go back to plan A and build my new boiler from a beer keg?
coem on guys I need inspiration....

