So you didn't find anywhere closer? What a pain. I'm not due to get another for quite a while but I'll let you know when I do in case you still need one.
/Phil.
Where to buy Co2 in North Hampshire
-
TheBigEasy
.-
TheBigEasy
-
Seveneer
Jon,
I have to do mine up real tight. It still doesn't seal absolutely so I've got into the habit of turning the gas on and straight back off again. That way I don't waste much.
The cylinder I have right now has been in service for 6 months and has supplied many kegs of beer so I don't see any problem in living with this particular leak.
Of course, if yours is a bad leak then that's another issue.
I did look into finding a seal for my gas tube but without success. I bought some of the plastic seals they talk about on the US forums but that turned out to be for a different system. My connector seems to not need a seal.
I'd be interested to hear how you solve this one, Jon.
/Phil.
I have to do mine up real tight. It still doesn't seal absolutely so I've got into the habit of turning the gas on and straight back off again. That way I don't waste much.
The cylinder I have right now has been in service for 6 months and has supplied many kegs of beer so I don't see any problem in living with this particular leak.
Of course, if yours is a bad leak then that's another issue.
I did look into finding a seal for my gas tube but without success. I bought some of the plastic seals they talk about on the US forums but that turned out to be for a different system. My connector seems to not need a seal.
I'd be interested to hear how you solve this one, Jon.
/Phil.
-
eskimobob
Jon, I had the same thing with the reg and bottle that I got from Norm. I don't think it is a fault, just the design.
It has no washer so relies purely on metal to metal seal - you have to do it up extremely tightly. I also put a smear of vasaline or similar on the mating faces and this solved the problem for me - no leaks at all now.
It has no washer so relies purely on metal to metal seal - you have to do it up extremely tightly. I also put a smear of vasaline or similar on the mating faces and this solved the problem for me - no leaks at all now.
-
TheBigEasy
Phil,I'd be interested to hear how you solve this one, Jon.
I am not happy about what I have done, but its worked.
I have used some PTFE tape around the thread on the valve body and the leak has stopped.
Now, what about force carbonating cornies.
Does anyone have a step by step?
I seem to remember something like:
1. pressure to 15 psi
2. roll the corny around to expose more surface area to CO2 to facilitate absorbtion.
3. leave for 24 hrs?
4. bleed off the oxygen (which will have percolated to the top)
5. pressue again to 15 psi
6. leave for a few? days
7. bleed off pressure down to 3 psi ( serving pressure)
Does that sound ok?
-
Seveneer
Hi Jon,
glad you stopped the leak.
To carbonate real ales I'd just set the regulator to 3psi then leave it. You may need to put 20psi on the keg to seal it then bleed it back down to 3psi to condition and serve but don't leave it with a lot of pressure.
If you have something like a hefe you'd want to stick it in the fridge at 20 PSI then leave it .
Forced carbonation does't really work with real ale as you don't really want it fizzy.
/Phil.
glad you stopped the leak.
To carbonate real ales I'd just set the regulator to 3psi then leave it. You may need to put 20psi on the keg to seal it then bleed it back down to 3psi to condition and serve but don't leave it with a lot of pressure.
If you have something like a hefe you'd want to stick it in the fridge at 20 PSI then leave it .
Forced carbonation does't really work with real ale as you don't really want it fizzy.
/Phil.
-
eskimobob
Phil, I have been leaving mine at 20 psi and have not noticed the beer being fizzy (I certainly wouldn't like it like that) - my cellar is at about 15C though so perhaps less is getting dissolved into solution?Seveneer wrote:To carbonate real ales I'd just set the regulator to 3psi then leave it. You may need to put 20psi on the keg to seal it then bleed it back down to 3psi to condition and serve but don't leave it with a lot of pressure.
-
Seveneer
EB, I store my beers in the garage and I notice a massive difference between ales stored at 20psi to those stored at 3 psi, even at 15 C.
An ale should have 1 - 2 volumes of CO2. My garage is currently at about 16C. At that temperature 4 psi gives me about 1 volume of CO2 which is how I like my ales. 20psi gives about 2.3 volumes at 15 C which is a massive difference.
For my hefe I chill it to 4C and stick 15-20 psi on it. This gives it 3+ volumes of CO2 whihc makes it really fizzy.
The cooler the beer the more readily it takes on CO2.
It does, of course boil down to how you like in your beers in the end.
/Phil.
An ale should have 1 - 2 volumes of CO2. My garage is currently at about 16C. At that temperature 4 psi gives me about 1 volume of CO2 which is how I like my ales. 20psi gives about 2.3 volumes at 15 C which is a massive difference.
For my hefe I chill it to 4C and stick 15-20 psi on it. This gives it 3+ volumes of CO2 whihc makes it really fizzy.
The cooler the beer the more readily it takes on CO2.
It does, of course boil down to how you like in your beers in the end.
/Phil.
-
Bigster
Been tinkering with my corni and all the bits supplied by norm. Having looked at daabs useful tips ( equipment 
) on cornis all looks well with what I have but 2 questions:
1. The pipe from the regulator in daabs showed a John Guest fitting - I just pushed the plastic pipe in to the metal connection. Hope this is right as cant get the blighter out now
2. Although there are 2 extra 'bits' to the regulator they look nothing like the one in daabs picture - far thicker. Cant imagine being able to fit a pressure gauge to it. The question is - do I need one as only intending to give it a blast as & when. If I do need one has anyone done this?
As always help gratefully received
) on cornis all looks well with what I have but 2 questions:1. The pipe from the regulator in daabs showed a John Guest fitting - I just pushed the plastic pipe in to the metal connection. Hope this is right as cant get the blighter out now
2. Although there are 2 extra 'bits' to the regulator they look nothing like the one in daabs picture - far thicker. Cant imagine being able to fit a pressure gauge to it. The question is - do I need one as only intending to give it a blast as & when. If I do need one has anyone done this?
As always help gratefully received
