refractometers

[eskimobob]

I still use the refractometer every time I brew but the margin for error is just the same as a hydro IMO, if not greater - especially with the 0-32 ones as you point out.

My reasoning for getting one is not because I need to make more accurate readings but rather to make it simpler to take readings. If it is as difficult as pippeting a few drops on to a slide rather than taking 100ml and having to cool it then that is a definite advantage for me.

Steve, I'm interested to know why you say the resolution is not good enough at low values - am I missing something with the 0.2% Brix resolution??

[steve_flack]

It's actually bloody hard to read to 0.2 accuracy even though they are marked in 0.2 graduations. They're just a little too close together IMO. I think a 0-10 or 0-16 would space them out more. A 0-16 should do you to about 1.060.

[delboy]

What about a 0-20 or 0-25 what sort of ranges are you looking at there?

And what sort of resolution will these have?

[steve_flack]

What about a 0-20 or 0-25 what sort of ranges are you looking at there?

If they were available they'd be about 1.080 and 1.100 respectively.

And what sort of resolution will these have?

I don't know for sure but I'd guess they'd be marked the same way. The thing is there is only so much room for markings through the viewfinder so the bigger the range the smaller the divisions get through the viewfinder.

[Vossy1]

Mysterio wrote

but i've found it necessary to take several readings throughout the boil to make sure the gravity is correct

If you take readings at different points throughout the boil, your always going to get stronger gravity readings due to evaporation. The only correlatation between them will be the increasing gravity v evaporation.
Or are you saying you take the readings to make sure you don't go past your target SG

Steve Flack wrote

It's actually bloody hard to read to 0.2 accuracy even though they are marked in 0.2 graduations

I must have a really good one then because it's really easy to read the 0.2 graduations. I would be more interested to know if the refractometer is accurate to 0.2.

I love my refractometer and wouldn't be without it.
Taking a hydrometer trial jar full of wort and chilling it just isn't practical for me. I take 3 x readings during the sparge and probably the same through the boil so a hydro would just be impractical.

I'm not saying hydrometers are no good, I just prefer my refractometer

[delboy]

The big issue for me is the breakability of typical glass hydrometers i've managed to break three or four already.

As for the time issue, i use a glass trial jar and i immerise it in a jug of water with the cold tap running into it and overflowing, plunge the hydro up and down a few times to aid in the heat loss, and hey presto a cooled sample in less than 2 mins.

That said i do like the sound of a refractometer, after all it is another toy to add to the brewing cupboard

[steve_flack]

The big issue for me is the breakability of typical glass hydrometers i've managed to break three or four already.

I was thinking the other day that I only have two items left that remain from my first ever brews (12 years ago) - one is my hydrometer (don't use it but still have it) and the other is my long plastic spoon which I use every brew day.

[delboy]

Haven't managed to break my plastic spoon yet either

Just bought a 0-32 brix from gain express.
Went for this because i thought i'd be able to use it for wine as well.

If i get on well with it i'll probably look into getting a lower grade brix model as well.

[Aleman]

I have a 0-20 From the linlk I posted earlier and they are marked in 0.1 % resolution. I find that a yeast saturated sample is difficult to read, mash/sparge/boil samples are fine. Post fermentation with 'clear' beer I get a fairly well defined edge as well.

I am certainly looking for a 0-10% model in the not so distant future as most of my usage is in the stopping sparging and post fermentation area.

Of course if you have a strong beer there is nothing stopping you taking 1ml of wort adding it to 1ml of distilled water, mixing and measuring the value then multiply by two (Then by four to get the approx gravity).

[brewsters millionths]

i assume there are good formulae out there for calculation of alc content fromr refractometer readings?
i've got one, but haven'tused it yet

[Vossy1]

i assume there are good formulae out there for calculation of alc content fromr refractometer readings?

Yep there are, but if you have Beersmith or Pro Mash there's a refractometer tool on them that does all the hard work

[brewsters millionths]

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$
so many other shiny toys to spend money on.
now where to find that money

[eskimobob]

$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$$

With the exchange rate as it is, Beersmith works out at just 10 quid! - A bargain...

[mysterio]

Mysterio wrote

but i've found it necessary to take several readings throughout the boil to make sure the gravity is correct

If you take readings at different points throughout the boil, your always going to get stronger gravity readings due to evaporation. The only correlatation between them will be the increasing gravity v evaporation.
Or are you saying you take the readings to make sure you don't go past your target SG

Just to make sure i'm heading towards my target SG, sometimes I find boiling is the only way to get the wort adequately mixed especially with the 10 gallon batches.

[delboy]

Got my refractometer today and the limations of it are already very evident, it seems to be useless for readings with yeast in them (have a wine that is know has virtually fermented out yet it has a reading of about 7 brix).

As far as i can see its only really useful for keeping an eye on sugar content during the mash etc, not something im really worried about since i always stop the sparge with plenty of room to spare.

Seems even the readings during the sparge are thrown out by proteins etc refracting the light, and that to really know what its doing you have to correct it with yes you guessed it a good old fashioned hydrometer.

Im glad that i ordered another hydrometer from H&G afterall, doesn't take that long to chill down to 20 C when used in conjunction with a glass trial jar.

I know this will probably come across as bad workman blaming his tools but i really can't see the point of refracts, can somebody enlighten me?