Electric Brewery Build UK Version

[barneey]

My panel was a bargain at £37 delivered, but there was another on ebay (page 4) which went for £52, so it may be worth just keeping a look out on ebay. Downside of the stainless is it does mark up if your not careful, at least with a MS box any scratches can be covered by the paint job, + with stainless you wont beable to use qmax cutters.

[Belter]

£52!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Where where?!?!

[barneey]

It was some time ago & I linked it on page 4 viewtopic.php?f=6&t=50861&start=45

It was even bigger than my box http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Electrical-en ... 7675.l2557

[barneey]

Just a quick question to all you sparkys out there, my volt meter is a lot brighter in operation than the amp meter, the two dc voltage supplies are identical is there anything that can be adjusted to brighten the amp meter display?

Cheers

[kev1976]

Cheers for the comments Clive. All i need now is another break in work to get it wired up and tested.

There is always the sides of the panel for optional extras

As for the reset, i've managed to refit it with the 2nd plastic collar under the panel so the silver trim is now flush to the panel.

Kev if you dont mind me asking... How much did your panel cost? I have panel I planned on repurposing but I'm worried it's not big enough. I'd like a panel like Clives but stainless panels are expensive

Not at all. It was just shy of £60 (http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/200794126235). There was a large stainless panel on ebay a few days ago with a starting price of 200 I was holding out for an ebay auction but got a bit sick of waiting so i bought this one......then let it lie around the house for months untouched until Clive's build prompted me to get it finished.

[Belter]

I just measured my panel and it's the same size as yours so I'm confident I can at least attempt to fit it all in

[barneey]

I just measured my panel and it's the same size as yours so I'm confident I can at least attempt to fit it all in

Its going to very much depend on how many components you want to fit. By the looks of things Kev`s build is about the maximum number of components that can be fitted on the front panel. But if you were to omit the Volt meter, place the siren alarm on the top, believe me you dont need to see it with the amount of noise it makes, it would free up a little more room.

With the pump circuits in practice you could just use 2 controls as Kevs build BUT incorporate another switch underneath to supply different outlets, so still have 4 outs but only two circuits, something thae Kev could easily do if wanted. I have 4 separate pumps but in practice only two pumps are likely to be operational at any one time - this again depends on your set up. Again with the timer, I placed two in my build, but in theory even the remote time set up option could be incorporated into just using one timer.

Just depends on how much bling to function you want to incorporate?

Another factor of size will also determine what if any trunking can be used, I used 63mm deep stuff but on reflection would have liked something a little taller.

Cheers

[Belter]

I just measured my panel and it's the same size as yours so I'm confident I can at least attempt to fit it all in

Its going to very much depend on how many components you want to fit. By the looks of things Kev`s build is about the maximum number of components that can be fitted on the front panel. But if you were to omit the Volt meter, place the siren alarm on the top, believe me you dont need to see it with the amount of noise it makes, it would free up a little more room.

With the pump circuits in practice you could just use 2 controls as Kevs build BUT incorporate another switch underneath to supply different outlets, so still have 4 outs but only two circuits, something thae Kev could easily do if wanted. I have 4 separate pumps but in practice only two pumps are likely to be operational at any one time - this again depends on your set up. Again with the timer, I placed two in my build, but in theory even the remote time set up option could be incorporated into just using one timer.

Just depends on how much bling to function you want to incorporate?

Another factor of size will also determine what if any trunking can be used, I used 63mm deep stuff but on reflection would have liked something a little taller.

Cheers

Yeah I am only using one timer in my setup. It will power up and operate a relay and then I will bypass the relay with a three way selector switch. (Timer-Off-Run).

Clive I've just been on http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/forum ... hp?t=25393 and read up on it as I'd overcomplicated my build and wondered how he'd done it but I can't see why he's using SSR to power Relays? Am I missing something? I have 2x SSR, one for each element in my HLT, so I can trigger each or both relays to have one or both on heating. In his picture he is using his SSR to power a mechanical relay.

[barneey]

Have a read through http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/contr ... -2?page=13 for an explaination of the SRR & Relays.

Cheers

[themadhippy]

so I can trigger each or both relays to have one or both on heating. In his picture he is using his SSR to power a mechanical relay.

That’s due to it being on american electrickary,over there you get 110v between live and neutral,to get 220v you need to use 2 lives ,to switch it safely you need to use a double pole switch,of course depending on the output current capability of the pid,it maybe possible to fire the relay directly from the pid

[Belter]

Have a read through http://www.theelectricbrewery.com/contr ... -2?page=13 for an explaination of the SRR & Relays.

Cheers

Cheers Clive that explains it.

If my SSR ever failed it'd have a float switch stopping power getting to the elements and if there's water in there it'll just come to the boil until the float switch kicks it out again.

If I put my selector switch on the PID side then it will serve the same purpose.

[Belter]

so I can trigger each or both relays to have one or both on heating. In his picture he is using his SSR to power a mechanical relay.

That’s due to it being on american electrickary,over there you get 110v between live and neutral,to get 220v you need to use 2 lives ,to switch it safely you need to use a double pole switch,of course depending on the output current capability of the pid,it maybe possible to fire the relay directly from the pid

My PID is the SSR version so will switch the SSR fine.

[barneey]

There also a few builds using contactors for the relays viewtopic.php?f=6&t=56046&p=604036#p604036 + MrLards build

[Belter]

Just depends on how much bling to function you want to incorporate?

Another factor of size will also determine what if any trunking can be used, I used 63mm deep stuff but on reflection would have liked something a little taller.

Cheers

Yeah I have no plans for a voltmeter. Perhaps an Ammeter but not overly fussed. I wont have a light for the alarm.

[Belter]

Can anyone tell me what the difference is between a PID with a SSR output and one with a Relay output. I assume from what I'm reading that the SSR output transforms down from 230V input to 12V DC and powers a DC SSR and the Relay version has a mechanical switching Volt Free Contact which wont last as long. Anyone have any experience with these? The instructions on the ebay add don't seem to entirely add up.

My SSR relays say they can take an input of 3-32VDC. I put a 24VDC PSU through it earlier and the LED lit up and I got continuity across the contact. Didn't actually test its function as it's cold outside. So that being the case I'd like to get 24V versions of all my equipment and have 24V control for everything. Simplifying things and hopefully removing a few relays... probably more likely adding a few.


EDIT: As always Auber have answered my Sestos questions.