another daft idea...

[Fil]

The saga continues....

having trouble with flickr so no pics..

solderd the H s and the end feeds, and started to build,, after i had 4 lengths built and linked the structure started to flex a bit too much for comfort while pushing bungs tight etc, some force is needed for assembly.

so i changed tack and mounted 5 lengths on a back board for stability and wet testing of the solders and bung fittings.. success all solder points held some bungs dripped when i stood on the out hose to close it but thats just a quick push n twist on each length..

the flow guides worked as when filling some air bubbles trapped followed em

im waiting for 2mm thick silicone to join the beer transport tubes still but when that arrives i should have the full length mounted on a board for h/e testing


flickr is back..

[EccentricDyslexic]

Are the bungs part of the final assembly? Or are you soldering or braising on some reducers?

Steve

[Fil]

Yes Steve, Bungs all the way home.. the initial idea was to use soft solder to join a copper reducer, but no one answered if it would work, and i cant hit temps needed to braise.. but bungs are cheaper way more flexible, and soldering reducers would need the pvc tube in place and a full in place installation to solder every thing rigid.

and lets say im somewhat invested in bungs after core-ing 24 of the buggers too.

with bungs i can chop n change as im leaning towards wall/board mounted as the cage is looking less practical to actual fit all together without building guides n jigs as soon as a bung is inserted its gripping a rigid shape.. obvious if u think about it.. i didnt

by tube 12 i have sussed threading a tighter spiral of coax to guide the flow, i may redo the first few again if i come across another old bit in the garage,
so the bungs will allow me to do that easily too.

BUNG _HO!!

[Hogarth]

Looking good!

When it comes to the final cut, instead of using an external frame how about just linking the copper end pieces by soldering a few cross-struts between them. You could arrange them two-by-two like the Jaded chiller, and it'd be nice and compact.

[Fil]

the final cut could easily be a compact more oblong version of the standard cfc coils. but for 1st testing i will mount it up a plank so its accessible for fiddling.

tho i wont be solderig anything else to quickly, not my forte ,

[EccentricDyslexic]

Ahh I see! I don't know if it is poss to solder copper to stainless, I presumed not so I braised mine, luckily I have an oxy acet on tap here. The problem with doing it my way is it is a rIght pain to braise and keep the hose pipe cool enuf it don't burn on the one end But I managed it as it was a long piece of hose that would just about be compressed back by an inch...if u can picture what I mean lol.

I hope the bungs can hold the pressure ok, I guess you will have to keep an eye on the mains water flow to make sure you don't blow any bungs out, but once you have the sweet spot u shud be ok.

Steve

[Fil]

fingers crossed

[darkonnis]

whens the hot water text then ?

Mines set to have about 5 tubes with a total length of about 3m... in answer to your question about using the reducers, yes, and no. The reducers will work but you have to "core" the internals out to allow a pipe through, instead of just fitting in (if you see what I mean)
I'd build it and test it but unsoldering the water inlets if I'm wrong about the length required would be.... awkward, to say the least.

Don't suppose you fancy hooking a few of your bits and trying 3m for me do you ?

[Fil]

Watch this space Cooky, as soon as the new 12mm od x 8mm id silicone arrives to join the beer tubes Im on it. the 10mm od x 8mm id is too thin and kinks round the bend. if the new stuff also does ?? i will sacrifice the 1/2" id silicone tube earmarked for other jobs using collars of the initial stuff to space the gap between SS and 1/2" id. or failing that chop up some old syphon tubes for now, while i find a thicker walled tube, i got some blue automotive pressure silicone tube that bends the gap a treat, shame its blue and not foodsafe and i would use it for a test if i had enough and it wasnt draining the overflow of me shelf chiller.

for an initial fit and wet test perhaps a tube of lsx silicone thread sealer may be a good enough tempary glue? if u dont twist the tubes when cured it should hold water pressure for a quick test, and allow u to see any measuring /design errors before commiting, i didnt try it as mine twists n turns too much..

?? would coiling a thread around a thin walled silicone tube help it bend a tight corner without kinking?? too late to play tonight....

[EccentricDyslexic]

How about skipping a tube? Ie silicon from left one to left three, right three to right five, left five to left two and right two is the exit?

Steve

[Fil]

How about skipping a tube? Ie silicon from left one to left three, right three to right five, left five to left two and right two is the exit?

Steve

good idea..
Thats now my backup plan:) but im avoiding it for a test as the beer wont be following a true counterflow path, and it will mean butchering close to 4m of hose (£20-30) 30-40cm x 12

[Fil]

finally a rig for testing when the tubes arrive..



the end bungs need attention and the feed ends correcting and the jubilee clips tightened, but removing and replacing 24 snug fitting bungs has taken its toll on me poor ol mits..

but thats what an 18ft+ exposed to water short length straight pipe chiller looks like

[Wezzel]

If it doesn't work give Tracy Emin a call. It would look a treat in the Tate Modern

[EccentricDyslexic]

I think that's a truly eccentric CFC!

Steve

Ps still worried about those bungs tho...

[Fil]

I think that's a truly eccentric CFC!

Steve

Ps still worried about those bungs tho...

did an early morning water test, all bungs held,, tho i had missed tightening up a couple of jubilee clips and have one bad solder joint..;( when the flow was closed post device yes with built up full mains pressure some bungs did squirt a spray and a few dipped, but as i dont intend to restrict on the way out but on the way in if needed not a problem....

one thing that has dawned on me tho, with clear tubes and water resudue and sunlight could get algae turning me jacket tubes green..., de bunging one end post use could be a solution.

hope the tubes there when i get in later