My bespoke Japanese garden brewshed with pics!

[WishboneBrewery]

You wouldnt believe the problems I've had with imperial pipe!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Phils sparge arm is imperial. 1/4". Can you get 1/4" to metric compression inserts or fittings? No. Can you get imperial olives?

You could try 'Enots brass fittings' http://www.circuit-hydraulics.co.uk/aca ... SPT__.html you'd need to get the nut, olive and conector but they do come in imperial pipe sizes

[mysterio]

18C is fine for most ale yeasts. Although some people like to ferment at between 20-22C to get more of the fruitiness from the English yeasts. But common yeasts like S04, Nottingham, will do fine at 18C

[chris_reboot]

my 4L loss is accounted for up front, so no need to compensate.
worked it out from my first brew, and seems consistent so far.

use the calc tool on this site to work it out.

keep up the good work!

[stephenfranks]

Thanks Chris.

I'll post some more pictures later, including pump setup.

[Billybrewster]

That's one cool looking brewery there mate, well done

I note the the immersion heater in your boiler, how did you get that massive 2 1/4" element through the two wall of your insulation boiler ?
Also did you wind that stainless coil yourself ?

Very impressed

P.S: you need to get a Shishu japanese garden design for the rest of the outside

[buckfast]

Thats one very smart brew shed mate. Very well done!!

Just two quick questions if you don't mind me asking. Where did you get the immesrsion heater for your boiler? And what are they rated at? I am in the throws of making a 15g boiler and I am looking for two of these.

Again, well done!

Cheers

[Garth]

you can get them from http://www.bes.co.uk, they are the stainless 11" ones and are described as 'for aggressive water' part no 16656

they are 3kW and are less than a tenner, (£8.22 plus the vat) buy a few more things like ballvalves etc and orders over £40 are postage free

I would put two of them in a 15 gallon boiler, you should also use the correct rating of heat resistant three core wire. I have two in my 100 litre boiler and two in my HLT. It might be handy to buy a immersion spanner, they are only a couple of quid.

btw Stephen, I don't know whether you've tested it with a boil yet but looking at your pictures I would have the green fibre washer on the outside of the pot then the liquid cannot travel up the threads of the immersion and cause a leak. I have all four of mine on the outside and they have never leaked once.

[stephenfranks]

I am having so much trouble actually getting them to tighten up! I have broken a rubber oil filter wrench and have ordered a metal one. As the thermoboxes are doube walled, you have to drill a larger hole then a smaller one on the inner skin. I cannot at the moment get the stainless to flatten when I tighten the hex backnut. I will advise how I get on with the new wrench.

Noted about the washer - I will try the other way. The hole ended up quite rough when done with hole saw and inside was best surface.

If anyone is thinking of installing these in a thermobox DO NOT make the mistake I made, where I did not make the outer hole large enough for a box immersion spanner (the spanner type are not suitable).

[Garth]

I knew I was going to have trouble tightnening mine up, my father in law is a JCB fitter and I borrowed from him a metal strap wrench for oil filters, I tightened this onto the smooth round nut on the inside and used the big immersion spanner on the outside, the pot flattened a bit and the walls on mine are much thicker than a NO themobox, tightened up no probs.

[stephenfranks]

I have ordered that exact wrench from Sealey!

My problem is that the hole on the outer skin does not allow for a box spanner so I am tightening from the inside only (which is OK, once it bites its fine). I hope the new wrench helps when it arrives! If not I will have to butcher a bigger hole..

Incidentally, I installed an immersion element in my HLT and I am having the same problem. It is a single skin lincat. I have tried all three types of immersion spanner on this and it didnt flatten that well and leaked when tested.

RE The immersion chiller - I bought this second hand on JBK! it is American as the pipe is 3/8" and metric stainless fittings do not fit. Had to send back and get imperial.

[Garth]

nice one Stephen, you should have no probs getting it to tighten up.

[buckfast]

Thanks for the info there.

I am using an old beer keg for my boiler. Will one of these elements tighten up against the keg as there isn't much give in the walls of one of these things. Will I have to have some kind of threaded stubs welded to the outside of the keg so the heaters can screw directly into these?

Thanks again.

[stephenfranks]

Perhaps someone else will disagree who has tried, but I think there is no way you will pull a keg flat.

Americans do it all the time (install elements in kegs) Try homebrewtalk.com for ideas how to do it. I think you are right about welding or silver soldering a fitting into the keg. With some practice, its not too difficult. Failing that, take it down to a welding company and get a fitting tig welded which would look very good.

If I was doing it, I would thread out aluminium or stainless tube to fit the element, cut a hole in the keg and tig weld or similar the threaded tube onto the keg.

I am negotiating on some scrap kegs at the moment as this is the direction I want to move with my brewing. Thermoboxes are a bit flimsy really and the stainless is not so good and you can make a much better quality job in my opinion with a keg (especialy polished).

Thats my opinion - many would disagree I'm sure!!

[Chappie519]

I used a large o-ring to seal all 3 of the elements i have fitted to kegs and have never had a leak yet. . . .

[leedsbrew]

I've got the same SS chiller as you and need to get some of those fittings to attach the stainless braid pipe. Can I ask where you got them from (the reducers, not the braid!) Cheers