Stainless Boiler - 3kW Immersion elements

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Stonechat
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Post by Stonechat » Sun Mar 30, 2008 9:55 pm

The one thing I've picked up from following this thread about elements is that they are not elementary :lol:

Chris B

Post by Chris B » Sun Mar 30, 2008 10:36 pm

I had seen the industrial elements on a dairy site, just over £40 for an element, I dont know if that is with a stainless boss rather than brass, also listed were rod stats that went op to 110degC

I am considering using an imersion element for my boiler but I plan on using a copper water cyl then the threaded flange can be silver soldered on and if I so wished I could fabricate an enclosure to soft solder to the wall of the cyl which would take a gland and have a gasketed lid.

prolix

Post by prolix » Sun Mar 30, 2008 10:52 pm

Graham wrote:You did say amps - I used volts because it is them that hurt. Your car-battery can supply 200 Amps, but it won't kill you (unless you drink the acid).

A few milliamps is enough to kill if there is enough voltage there to produce it.
It takes as few as 80 milli amps to kill you dead, a car battery can stop your heart and kill you at 12v!

The voltage is irrelavant (yes I know ohms law)

50k volt tasers incapacitate because amps are so small

Graham

Post by Graham » Sun Mar 30, 2008 11:05 pm

prolix wrote: a car battery can stop your heart and kill you at 12v!
Of course it can - if someone drops it on my head.

prolix

Post by prolix » Sun Mar 30, 2008 11:19 pm

Graham wrote:
prolix wrote: a car battery can stop your heart and kill you at 12v!
Of course it can - if someone drops it on my head.
:lol: :lol: :lol:

reminded me of the tomato joke about being in a tin.

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johnmac
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Post by johnmac » Thu Apr 03, 2008 3:15 pm

I'm having great difficulty tightening the element against the curvature of the pot.

Would an oil filter chain or stilsons be any better than the Baby Boa strap wrench I'm using?

Or otherwise, is there a (food grade) sealant which I could use?

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Aleman
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Post by Aleman » Thu Apr 03, 2008 3:56 pm

What about using a Box Spanner and the strap wrench?

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johnmac
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Post by johnmac » Thu Apr 03, 2008 5:43 pm

That's what I've been trying, but the strap wrench doesn't have enough grip on the smooth brass.

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johnmac
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Post by johnmac » Thu Apr 03, 2008 6:25 pm

Cheers DaaB. Do you think there'll be enough room to use them, given the curve of the pot? Stupid question; I'll know when I try :roll:

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Garth
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Post by Garth » Thu Apr 03, 2008 7:59 pm

Chris, how far from the bottom of your boiler have you fitted the elements?

what hop filter are you using?

yep I'm nosey....

CarpHunter

Post by CarpHunter » Fri Apr 04, 2008 11:13 am

Hi all.
I have just found this site and have not stopped reading / learning for a few days its such a goldmine of information, please excuse and noobie stupidity as I have never used a forum before and therefore might breach some rule / etiquette somewhere along the way.

My HLT split and I decided to replace and upscale my brewery as most of it is reaching the end of its life anyway and that lead to a Google search and this forum, reading this thread about immersion heater elements in boilers made me think about a wax melter I made for my daughters body camouflage business.

This wax melter is akin to a HLT IE it contains water held at a constant temperature and from here the link to brewing was obvious I used a legally obtained beer barrel with a 2.5KW washing machine element linked to a pid for this project and it has seen almost constant use for the last two years with no problem.

The element I chose has a rubber compression fitting as an integral part so fitting was easy cut an oblong shaped hole in the barrel push the element through and tighten the nut.

The electrical connections are made with spade connectors, and the tube where the thermostat from the washing machine should live I filled with heat transmission paste and pushed the pt100 sensor for the pid in.

For a cover I bought two of the proper parts for the element adapted them to fit together and glued them, job done.

Quite how this would adapt to a boiler I am not sure, I doubt if a plastic container would be strong enough for the compression fitting for starters, I have Emailed the manufacturer of the element to see if it is food safe and await their reply.

There are bound to be other issues with this idea but it is another option with prices for these running from £15 to £stupid.

Sorry if was long winded.

steve_flack

Post by steve_flack » Fri Apr 04, 2008 11:17 am

johnmac wrote:I'm having great difficulty tightening the element against the curvature of the pot.

Would an oil filter chain or stilsons be any better than the Baby Boa strap wrench I'm using?

Or otherwise, is there a (food grade) sealant which I could use?
I eventually found a system where I got the boa strap gripped tight on the boss and then tightened using the spanner on the outside. Given the shape of my boiler I was actually head down, half inside the boiler holding the boa whilst turning the spanner with my foot.

In my experience silicone sealant won't work. JB weld might but if the element dies you may have issues getting it out again.

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Andy
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Post by Andy » Fri Apr 04, 2008 11:33 am

steve_flack wrote: I eventually found a system where I got the boa strap gripped tight on the boss and then tightened using the spanner on the outside.
Yes, I think this is the right approach, use the Boa to hold the lock ring in place and use the spanner to tighten the element.
Dan!

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Post by johnmac » Fri Apr 04, 2008 1:20 pm

Thanks chaps. Holding the nut still with the Boa whilst turning the element with the spanner is definitely the way to go. Job done, I hope, touch wood, no leaks yet.

cockneyron

Post by cockneyron » Fri Apr 04, 2008 3:05 pm

Carphunter excuse my ignorance :oops:
Whats "body camoflage"

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