Counterflow cooler HERMS system

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Frothy

Post by Frothy » Sat Oct 21, 2006 12:15 am

Andy wrote: Frothers - did you have to buy the thermocouple separately or was it included in the original auction ?

And what are you doing re: an SSR, didn't you ask the PID seller to flog you one ?
Included in original auction but this wasn't clear on the auction - its a J type and is threaded through the centre of a 4mm bolt of similar. The SSR's were 2nd hand for £12 the pair with 10v switching (suitable for the PID) and handling up to 30A (wanted over 16A) - I really don't know anything much about it and went on Phil's (seveneers) advice, thanks Phil.

Phil I wired it up just waiting for a plug, no instructions and most of the markings are in Chinese :roll: however I found a couple of websites about wiring similar PID's into coffee machines and they straightened me out with the symbols. First of all its not going on the HERMS but on the Keggerator/ lagering fridge. - wouldn't a HE work more efficiently if it were pressurised?

if only I could find a shiny box to put it in 8)
Matt

P.S. I considered using the HE to heat the sparge water - just add some connects to a plastic fermenting bucket and use your system to recirc this until it's up to temp?

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Andy
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Post by Andy » Sat Oct 21, 2006 8:03 am

Frothers - if it's the XMT-7100 PID then the manual is here:-

http://rchobby.282.hk/XMT7100.doc
Dan!

Seveneer

Post by Seveneer » Sat Oct 21, 2006 8:34 am

Matt,

was the manual that Andy posted any good to you? If not, post a photo so we can see what you're dealing with. You don't want to turn it on until it's right otherwise you could be looking for a new PID. :(

If you are going to recirculate the sparge water through a heat exchanger to get it up to tempreature would it not be easier to just fit an element to the HLT? It obviously depends on your process but I use the mash time to heat the sparge water. His means the heat exchanger is already busy.

I don't know whether the HE would be more efficient at pressure or not. It may be the case but I'd have thought that you'd need to get the temperature up to near to boiling to get any real pressure which is higher than you'd need to go with this application. Unfortunately I don't know enough about it to say for sure.

I do know though, that it works without pressure. :)

/Phil.

steve_flack

Post by steve_flack » Sat Oct 21, 2006 9:15 am

I found a much better manual some bloke wrote on the web. It's on

http://users.rcn.com/erics/PID

You probably want PID_Manual_2.doc

If you're unhappy about downloading Word files off the internet, I've uploaded a PDF to my website (PDFs are safer). The link is

http://www.kentplacesoftware.com/downlo ... nual_2.pdf

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Post by Andy » Sat Oct 21, 2006 9:52 am

Nice one Steve!
Dan!

eskimobob

Post by eskimobob » Sat Oct 21, 2006 11:50 am

Andy wrote:Frothers - if it's the XMT-7100 PID then the manual is here
I'm thinking of ordering one of these XMT-7100 controllers to control my FV heating mat (It's now a bit chilly in our cellar for brewing). The mat is only 34W so I should be able to use the relay in the PID rather than an SSR.

Frothy & Vossy, Is this the one that you guys ordered?
Do you think it is worth the money? - It is very cheap compared to similar devices in RS.

Vossy1

Post by Vossy1 » Sat Oct 21, 2006 12:01 pm

Hi EB,

Yes that's the same one.

I can't comment yet as I've not received mine yet :cry:

It is very good value for money.

Palm Electronics have them on a buy it now (E-Bay), but offer £12.50 or £13.

Even if it gives up the ghost after a while, it's a LOT cheaper than RS alternatives :wink:

Seveneer

Post by Seveneer » Sat Oct 21, 2006 6:18 pm

EB, according to the specs the relay contacts can handle 3A so your 34w mat will be fine.

/Phil.

Vossy1

Post by Vossy1 » Sat Oct 21, 2006 6:39 pm

if only I could find a shiny box to put it in
Matt
Try these from Maplin.

http://www.maplin.co.uk/Search.aspx?cri ... &DOY=21m10

They do other sizes as well 8)

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Post by Andy » Sat Oct 21, 2006 9:12 pm

Frothy wrote:The SSR's were 2nd hand for £12 the pair with 10v switching (suitable for the PID) and handling up to 30A (wanted over 16A)
Phil's SSR has a flashing LED in it! That's shiny... :lol:
Dan!

Frothy

Post by Frothy » Sun Oct 22, 2006 12:35 am

Got ma PID from palm electronics too - took 2 weeks from HongKong. Thanks for the manuals & tips guys I'll have a look tomorrow (just got back from 11 hour shift at work) I'm pretty sure I wired it up correcly but better to be safe than sorry.

according to the guy selling thermocouples on ebay these PID's have a very good spec even compared to some of the £100 models. For £14.50 I'm not complaining :) LED + Shiny box = uber shiny?

Matt


Additional - thank god for that manual MrFlack - don't know how I would set it up without :o

eskimobob

Post by eskimobob » Sun Oct 22, 2006 6:44 pm

Andy wrote:Phil's SSR has a flashing LED in it! That's shiny... :lol:
But is it blue :wink: :lol: :lol:

Frothy

Post by Frothy » Tue Oct 24, 2006 1:01 am

Got the PID set up today and it came with a K-type thermocouple. Wired it up in a parallel circuit with the freezer @240v whilst using a plug and socket connection so that I can move it to the HERMS etc.

http://ct.pbase.com/g6/15/540015/2/6899 ... I6gFcK.jpg

I originally got the thermocouple wires back to front so the temp was going up instead of down on the freezer, set the main parameters, set point output type, degrees celcius, thermocouple type etc etc. and left it to autotune.


All fine and dandy - it works a treat apart from the thermocouple which is unsuitable. I've been experimenting with the K-type thermocouple (K2M) that comes with the PID - it's great between 15 & 100oc but won't sense temp's below 15oc & I first want to use it with my keggerator :? I've spoken to Watch Hill & they've recommended a t-type instead.

Vossy the K2M is embedded in a small bolt so you could bolt it straight through a boiler with the aid of a rubber washer.

without those instructions this would have made no sense
thanks again
Matt

Vossy1

Post by Vossy1 » Tue Oct 24, 2006 1:15 am

Vossy the K2M is embedded in a small bolt so you could bolt it straight through a boiler with the aid of a rubber washer.
If I get one with my PID you'll have saved me a lot of trouble, thanks Froths.

When will it get here....2 weeks on Tuesday....lucky for some :wink:

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Post by Andy » Tue Oct 24, 2006 8:34 am

Frothy have you decided on a HE design yet ?
Dan!

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