Faulty Element?

PieOPah · Post by **PieOPah** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 2:19 pm

Okay, my recent boil just doesn't seem to be cutting it.

Just as the wort hit boiling, the thermostat cut out (turned up to max - 10). So, I thought it was a dirty element so I drained the wort and gave it a great clean. Nice and shiny again.

Starting up the boiler, the same thing happened, just bofore the boil kicked off, it cut out.

So, I have got a cable and plugged this straight into the element so the thermostats isn't used. Now I would have thought that this would have made a difference, but how wrong could I have been. Yet again, just before a boil starts, the element cuts out. There is a load clicking sound when this happens. Is there any way I can stop this happening?

Thanks.

mysterio · Post by **mysterio** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 2:38 pm

Hmm, do you have anything plugged into the same socket? The elements are very power hungry. I've had to change a fuse mid-boil before.

It's not your day PoP!

moorsd · Post by **moorsd** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 2:38 pm

I'm no expert, but you've done what I would have suggested....sounds like your element has gone t*ts up!

What boiler are you using?

....and what mysterio says!

PieOPah · Post by **PieOPah** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 2:40 pm

It's a dual plug socket and the only other thing plugged in is the phone. (damn wireless technology!)

Every other boil the phone has been the only thing plugged in and this has never caused a problem.

Damn frustrating considering that this has been my worst ever brew. Hope that the fact that there has been no real hot break isn't too detrimental on the beer

moorsd · Post by **moorsd** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 2:52 pm

Sounds like it has gone to the big Element in the sky

I wouldn't be so worried about the hot break (at worst it will cause a haze), I'd be more concerned that you haven't extracted any Hop bitterness from the hops you used, usually they should be boiling for at least an hour to extract the Alpha Acids?

PieOPah · Post by **PieOPah** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 2:57 pm

Fortunately the wort is boiling (well it is apparently 102oC according to my thermometer). I don't care about haze as it is a stout.

I can't see how the grain bill would effect the boil as this is now just the wort.

I am letting the wort sit a little longer than usual - probably a 90 'boil'. should be okay.....

Guess it is time for me to look for some corded kettles now!

moorsd · Post by **moorsd** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 3:04 pm

If its boiling, I'm sure you will be fine!

Hop & Grape do replacement elements (depending on what boiler you are using)

element

PieOPah · Post by **PieOPah** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 3:17 pm

I'll be giving the element another good clean after this brew. I'll then give the boiling water theory a test and see if that is okay. Would prefer not to have to throw away the element....

prodigal2 · Post by **prodigal2** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 5:04 pm

PoP it sounds to me as DaaB has suggested a thermal cut out on the element. These thermal cut outs are usually a bi-metalic strip (which is probably the clicking sound you are hearing) and are designed to prevent any damage occuring incase of the element exceeding its designed working temp. I think the good news for you is that it is not tripping either a RCD or a MCB on you incoming electrical panel.

Out of interest have you being storing your boiler out in the cold?
Sometimes with thermal cut-outs going from very cold to nearing their ceiling temp can affect sensitivity.It may be worthwhile keeping the boiler in the house and try a test boil to see if this has any effect.

What size is the element out of interest?

Post by **Andy** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 5:09 pm

On my cheapo kettle elements you can disable the thermal cutout by either removing the metallic strip (actually a circular disc with white gunk on it) or by removing the little plastic trip switch it actuates when it goes thunk

PieOPah · Post by **PieOPah** » Fri Jan 19, 2007 5:11 pm

yes I have been storing the boiler out in the cold (shed). Will try disabling the cut out and all other sgestions mentioned. Thanks guys

PieOPah · Post by **PieOPah** » Mon Jan 22, 2007 7:18 am

With the boiler empty, I filled it up with water (only enough to cover the element). Thought I would take this oppurtunity to give it another clean so threw in a load of citric acid.

Got a great boil going with no cut outs.

No idea why it kept cutting out when I needed it most (possibly all the gunk in the wort?)

Anyway, the element is fine so I expect it will be okay for my next brew (whenever I have time for that!)

SteveD · Post by **SteveD** » Sun Jan 28, 2007 2:12 am

You can get scale building up on the element as well if you don't treat mash, or more probably sparge, water to remove bicarbonate hardness. That's worse than caramelisation because it's more of a cow to remove unless you resort to chemical means. For the same reason it's a good test to see how well your water treatment works. Clean element = it's working.

I could never be arsed with simmerstats on bruheat/electrim boilers. I found that even with the S/stat set to 10, it would still annoyingly click off from time to time so I performed the following local field modification.

Take it off.

Cut the element plug off.

Wire the plug onto a handy piece of 13amp rated flex that you prepared earlier, complete with 13amp fused plug at the other end - the standard bruheat element draws about 10 amps. Make sure the flex is at least twice as long as the stupidly short piece originally supplied.

Chuck the simmerstat into a handy drawer full of other stuff you want to forget about.

No boil problems in the last 20 years or so while wired direct. You can plug 2x10amp elements into both sides of a double wall socket no problem as the socket isn't fused. The 2.5mm T&E mains circuit wiring has no problems with a load like that. It's fused at 30amps at the consumer unit. What you can't do is plug 2 elements into say a 4 way extension socket, because the single 13amp plug into the wall will go WHOOOAAaaaa, and then blow. Except for when I did it once by mistake...hmmm.

Also, if you've got a 2 element boiler going, and also want to fire up your HLT (shouldn't do, but you never know!)...that might be problematic, particularly if the Memsahib then goes to switch on the hot water immersion heater because you used it all washing and sterilising!

prodigal2 · Post by **prodigal2** » Sun Jan 28, 2007 8:31 pm

Steve your scaring me, as a muso you should not know that much about electric-trickery.
You do realise that you will have to surrender your MU (musicians Union) membership as you are beaching rules of the Guild.

Next you'll suggest a earth lift is'nt safe, and there is a more serious problem that needs tracking down

Sorry I'll get me coat,

SteveD · Post by **SteveD** » Mon Jan 29, 2007 12:58 am

prodigal2 wrote:Steve your scaring me, as a muso you should not know that much about electric-trickery.
You do realise that you will have to surrender your MU (musicians Union) membership as you are beaching rules of the Guild.

Next you'll suggest a earth lift is'nt safe, and there is a more serious problem that needs tracking down

Sorry I'll get me coat,

It's only serious if you get a fizzing little zap off the mic

All my gear is PAT tested (well, it's got the green stickers that I put on..hehehe)

I learned Electrikry from a book called 'Wiring' then proceeded to install the mains and lighting circuits in the extension we built. The lighting was a bit complex, with multiple switching locations for indoor and outdoor lights. Nothing blew up and it's all still working so in spite being a bass player, I must have got something right

I didn't tell the MU ssshhhhhhhh

Jim's Beer Kit

Practical Homebrewing

HomeBrew Forum

Sponsored by BREW-SCHOOL

Faulty Element?

Faulty Element?