I’m still a little way off my first brew but thought I would explain my setup for your comments and suggestions.
My last brew was over 20yrs ago and I followed Dave Line’s Bruheat mashing method with a grain bag, I don’t think this was very efficient so I have insulated the boiler and intend to mash loose in that. The insulation is as good if not better than a cool box so I don’t think I will have any burning/caramelisation problems.
The goods will be transferred to a fermenting bin with a false bottom, I might try to make one but I need advice on food safe tube, temp suitability and connection to tap etc and as I don’t have a homebrew shop nearby telephone conversations and mail order are risky, likewise a hop strainer, both of these are not that expensive so is it worth making one? I have made a CFC having seen Jims on his web site and saved over half the price of a new one.
I previously sparged with a watering can!! (It really was home brewing then, things are so much more sophisticated now) but will use a rotating arm in my new setup, is it worth making one?
As the max boil in the bruheat is about 18 lt the rest will be done in a large pan on the stovetop. I will probably make a larger boiler latter.
How does that sound? Any suggestions most welcome.
Equipment for first brew
- Andy
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Wise words from Daab!
My boiler is too small to accomodate the full wort volume in one go so I top up as DaaB mentions. Another tip is to boil up the "spare" wort in a large pot on the cooker so it doesn't take the main boil temperature down when you add it. I've done this for my last two brews and it makes life easier.
My boiler is too small to accomodate the full wort volume in one go so I top up as DaaB mentions. Another tip is to boil up the "spare" wort in a large pot on the cooker so it doesn't take the main boil temperature down when you add it. I've done this for my last two brews and it makes life easier.
Marvelous advice as per usual
Also picked up on this - will be doing to mine. Now why didnt I think of doing that

Also picked up on this - will be doing to mine. Now why didnt I think of doing that
If you have the Thorn/Electrim flip tap the fitting that comes with the Brupaks hop strainer was abysmal (at least mine was), it fell off first brew. Instead I opened out the back of the tap to 15mm and pushed the copper tube straight in, this is more than adequate
- bitter_dave
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One thing occurs to me...
An alternative to mashing in the boiler is to mash in what you would have used as a lauter, except obviously you insulate it to keep the mash temp reasonably constant.
The benefits of doing this are that you don't have to transfer the wort after the mash and whilst the mash is doing it's thing, you can heat up your sparge water. If there are any drops in temperature during the course of the mash you can add aditional hot water. Getting the mash temperature to be 66 c is quite easy if you add your grain to water at about 72 C.
Just something to consider
An alternative to mashing in the boiler is to mash in what you would have used as a lauter, except obviously you insulate it to keep the mash temp reasonably constant.
The benefits of doing this are that you don't have to transfer the wort after the mash and whilst the mash is doing it's thing, you can heat up your sparge water. If there are any drops in temperature during the course of the mash you can add aditional hot water. Getting the mash temperature to be 66 c is quite easy if you add your grain to water at about 72 C.
Just something to consider

As Bigster said, marvellous advice.
I don’t have the grain bag anymore. What are the pros and cons of various methods?
I will definetly try the slatter guard hop strainer.
23 L in my Bruheat leaves less than 50mm headspace this doesn’t contain the first violent kicks of the boil. The boiler is 28 yrs old; I believe the newer one is larger. Having the “spareâ€
I don’t have the grain bag anymore. What are the pros and cons of various methods?
I will definetly try the slatter guard hop strainer.
23 L in my Bruheat leaves less than 50mm headspace this doesn’t contain the first violent kicks of the boil. The boiler is 28 yrs old; I believe the newer one is larger. Having the “spareâ€
all of the brews in Palmers book "how to brew" are partial boils. The boil volume is only 11.3L and then you dilute it up to 19L. Not had bad results so far. All you need to do for any recipe is adjust the quantity of hops you use to allow for the kettle utilization which is affected by
a)Boil volume
b)Boil gravity
c) Duration hops are boiled & their AAU
best of luck
Matt
P.S. just realised your on all grain so none of this is relevant - sorry
a)Boil volume
b)Boil gravity
c) Duration hops are boiled & their AAU
best of luck
Matt
P.S. just realised your on all grain so none of this is relevant - sorry

I bought the bruheat hop strainer to fit my bruheat boiler.
The first problem was that I had to get a wrench and hammer to move the parts around so it was lined up properly.
Next was the 'tap attacment' is just a big piece of tubing. The strainer doesn't really fit into the tap too well. The tubing fits, it just isn't all that flush. To be most effective, I either need to jam it under my element (don't really like doing that!) or have it sticking up.
Because of the tubing, this softens during the boil and as a result the hop strainer just falls off.
I have no idea why I never thought of this previously, but I guess a jubilee clip might help out here.....
The first problem was that I had to get a wrench and hammer to move the parts around so it was lined up properly.
Next was the 'tap attacment' is just a big piece of tubing. The strainer doesn't really fit into the tap too well. The tubing fits, it just isn't all that flush. To be most effective, I either need to jam it under my element (don't really like doing that!) or have it sticking up.
Because of the tubing, this softens during the boil and as a result the hop strainer just falls off.
I have no idea why I never thought of this previously, but I guess a jubilee clip might help out here.....