Ball valve for coolbox / sparging

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jaquiss2005
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Ball valve for coolbox / sparging

Post by jaquiss2005 » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:16 pm

I have an old coolbox which I am looking to convert to a mash tun.

I'm not very practical and have seen this on e-bay, but not sure what the difference is between 1/2" BSP Thread and 15mm Copper Spout. Can someone please explain.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Viking-Ball-V ... 7b69231c2d

Secondly, what is the difference between batch sparging and fly sparging?

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Texy
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Re: Ball valve for coolbox / sparging

Post by Texy » Sun Feb 19, 2012 10:56 pm

Your link isn't quite right so I can't see the actual eBay item, however I also went for what I think your pointing to, but for my boiler that I made. The mashtun I decided to buy a ready made effort at around £50 a year ago.
Fly sparing is where you continually 'spray' water over the grain bed and collect the run off. Batch sparging is where you let the water soak the grain for a period of time, let that drain, then fill the mashtun with another 'batch' of water, rinse and repeat.
Texy
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Deebee
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Re: Ball valve for coolbox / sparging

Post by Deebee » Mon Feb 20, 2012 12:34 pm

To be honest you really do not need to make holes in a coolbox rto make an MT.

you can make your manifold as normal and connect it to soem hose and use siphon effect. You likely have a coolbox at home that is used rarey for its main purpose.

If i were going to buy another coolbox i think this would be the way to go. No holes = deinately no leaks.

I think the item you mention is from Trackermart.

I have this valve in my boiler, its ok i have used the NSP fitting and the copper tupre.

the screw fitting is great if you have a bazooka screen type filter
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Fil
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Re: Ball valve for coolbox / sparging

Post by Fil » Mon Feb 20, 2012 2:06 pm

the problem we all have with standard plumbing fittings is that they are designed for attaching stuff to one side, we like to attach stuff to both sides. this can be done with the purchase or loan of a 15mm blacksmith drill bit (£5), with one of these you can drill out the metal which stops 15mm pipe from sliding all the way thru a standard tank connector, you can then push pipe allthe way thru and attache a ball valve to the outside and your manifold to the inside with standard fittings.

but Deedee is on the ball when he says no holes n leaks
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