Float switch for HLT

Belter · Post by **Belter** » Sat Dec 29, 2012 10:34 am

I'm after a float switch similar to what Steve in France has on his build. I'm likely the drain my HLT forgetting to turn my elements off and like the idea of having a fail safe. I've read though that the Chinese ones can stick and become tempermental. Does anyone here use one? Any chance of a link? Most of the ones on eBay seem to not be 230v.

Highlander · Post by **Highlander** » Sun Dec 30, 2012 3:16 pm

I use this one to control sparging. You just turn the float round depending which way you want it to trip.
But you would need to hook it up though a relay as its only good for 1.5A

Belter · Post by **Belter** » Sun Dec 30, 2012 3:30 pm

Highlander wrote:I use this one to control sparging. You just turn the float round depending which way you want it to trip.
But you would need to hook it up though a relay as its only good for 1.5A

which one? I can't find your link?

Highlander · Post by **Highlander** » Sun Dec 30, 2012 3:35 pm

That http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Sus304-Stainl ... 8ec9dmight help

Belter · Post by **Belter** » Sun Dec 30, 2012 3:42 pm

you reckon its all good? no sticking?

boingy · Post by **boingy** » Sun Dec 30, 2012 4:02 pm

Don't be taking mains voltage to a float switch. Get a low voltage one and switch a relay with it.

Or if it is just for boil dry protection, do what I did. I got a low voltage switch and wired it in series with the temperature sensor such that the sensor is taken open circuit if the level drops below the switch. My temperature controller sees this as an error condition and turns off the element (it also emitted a horrendously loud continuous alarm tone until I removed the buzzer from the PCB).

Belter · Post by **Belter** » Mon Dec 31, 2012 11:53 am

boingy wrote:Don't be taking mains voltage to a float switch. Get a low voltage one and switch a relay with it.

Or if it is just for boil dry protection, do what I did. I got a low voltage switch and wired it in series with the temperature sensor such that the sensor is taken open circuit if the level drops below the switch. My temperature controller sees this as an error condition and turns off the element (it also emitted a horrendously loud continuous alarm tone until I removed the buzzer from the PCB).

you've got a good point there. 230v and water not a good idea. I have a 24v dc power supply. I'll sort that out with my main panel build and get a 24v dc relay if I can pick one up for free from work.

Belter · Post by **Belter** » Mon Dec 31, 2012 12:00 pm

I've bought the float switch Highlander linked to. cheers for your help guys.

stevetk189 · Post by **stevetk189** » Tue Jan 01, 2013 12:42 am

Looks identical to the ones I got. Not sure what can stick on them really, the float is very freely moving.

Belter · Post by **Belter** » Tue Jan 01, 2013 2:27 am

stevetk189 wrote:Looks identical to the ones I got. Not sure what can stick on them really, the float is very freely moving.

great news!

Highlander · Post by **Highlander** » Tue Jan 01, 2013 4:09 pm

Hope it doesn't take too long to get to you.
Took me a while to figure it out. But you can unclip the float and turn it round. This lets you decide if you want a normally open or normally closed switch.

Belter · Post by **Belter** » Tue Jan 01, 2013 4:22 pm

doesn't really matter if it takes a while. I have loads to do and loads to buy before I can get brewing. Need a good place for PT100 probes that are actually accurate and not hideously expensive. no-one seems to sell thernowells for pt100's

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Float switch for HLT

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